The wine industry is still a boys’ club – but women like me are working to change that

What shall we talk about first? Your t*** or your a***?”

The charming words that bring back grim memories of my first Christmas shindig working for a reputable London wine merchant.

I’ll never forget walking over to a group of people (that included members of the senior management team) and being greeted with a slap on my bottom and these words by one of the senior sales directors. I was stunned. I didn’t know what to say. I simply got very flustered, muttered “neither”, felt deeply embarrassed and walked away shaking. The worst part of this is that the owner of the company stood within earshot and he did nothing.

The next day I received a rather bungled and mumbled apology from the retail director on behalf of the chief executive of the company saying that “it wasn’t acceptable” and “they’d definitely had a bit too much to drink” and had been told that “such behaviour isn’t tolerated”. They continued to enjoy lunches out at Michelin-starred restaurants and boozy boys “shooting days” – it appeared the behaviour was more than tolerated.

I didn’t know what to do. There was no HR to speak of, and I hadn’t been in the company long. I didn’t want to rock the boat. I had no mentor or a woman in a senior position that I could turn to for advice.

As such, I wasn’t shocked to read that a recent in-depth survey commissioned by the brilliant Queena Wong of Curious Vines, in partnership with Proof Insight, found that 78 per cent of women feel that sexism and gender bias is an issue in the UK wine industry. That is a stark and staggering number – but sadly, not a surprising one.

My own experience of sexism in the wine trade has been expansive, from the above story to small everyday moments – being allocated the “Chablis” table at Burgundy En Primeur tastings because that’s what “women like”. This despite the fact that my knowledge of the region was far deeper than that of many of my male colleagues, to the point that I was the only one with certified professional wine qualifications.

My starting salary at my first job in the trade was 20 per cent less than my male colleagues in the same position, despite having more experience. Being regularly called “the barmaid” in the wine bar that I owned and ran. Repeatedly being asked to “speak to the owner”, and being talked over to my male business partner by wine reps, despite me making all the buying decisions for our company. The list goes on.

Luckily, I developed the confidence to speak up for myself and call out this behaviour – but many don’t. And it is the responsibility of our senior leaders in the industry to make seismic changes so that the wine industry is a fully inclusive place.

Women are the largest consumers of wine in the UK and the US, yet we make up a much smaller proportion of collectors. It’s not because we don’t love wine or want to know more about it. I have a modest wine collection that isn’t focused on returns on my investments. It’s more about enjoying the evolution of a wine with friends and loved ones in the years to come.

My feelings about wine have always been about creating a community of inclusivity and togetherness. But the industry doesn’t reflect this nearly enough. Yes, we are seeing more women in the sector, but at times it can still feel like a fusty male club, even if the cool boys are getting hipper in their outfits.

I do, however, remain optimistic that things will continue to get better. There is a growing movement of people wanting to see real change in the industry, professional networks being established, and senior leaders of the industry starting to take note. And importantly, with the emergence of innovative winemaking styles and the rising prominence of new regions, a more diverse and inquisitive audience is drawn to the world of wine.

As I progress in my career, my goal is to foster and mentor those who are junior to me, while also seeking support and guidance from those who are more senior. Positive transformations occur when we actively work together to support each other – and you don’t have to be a woman to do that.

Rosamund Hall (DipWSET) is a wine consultant, merchant and writer