The perfect American city-mountain break is cheaper than you think
The mountains are calling, says Aine Fox, with nature on the doorstep of this Colorado city
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Your support makes all the difference.American songwriter John Denver once said, “Colorado Rocky Mountain high…I know he’d be a poorer man if he never saw an eagle fly.”
I am all the richer then, spotting not one but two of these majestic birds of prey on the drive out of Estes Park. The sighting in the town, a base camp for adventurers in the famous Rocky Mountain National Park, tops off a day of wildlife spotting that has included a bull elk and his harem of females, some bighorn sheep, and a chipmunk I initially mistook for a squirrel.
Nature is on Denver’s doorstep, around 90 minutes drive away, making the Colorado state capital a convenient place from which to both enjoy city life and explore the stunning surrounds of the Rockies. A new route from UK airports via Dublin to Denver with Aer Lingus, which launched in 2024, allows travellers to clear US immigration and customs in Ireland before take-off. Avoiding long queues stateside on landing means the adventure starts immediately.
So what is there to do, see and enjoy in this western American state?
In the mid 1800s visitors came in search of gold; now many come for the skiing in winter and hiking in summer.
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Denver, the singer, is said to have changed his surname to match a city he loved, and Rocky Mountain High – his musical tribute to the wonder of the area’s natural beauty – became an official song for the state of Colorado in 2007.
Standing amid the golden yellow foliage reaching up into the clear blue sky as the mountains surround me, I can see why he felt moved to pen such lyrics.
It’s autumn – or Fall as the Americans call it – and leaf-peeping season is in full flow. The term is a new one to me, but flicking through the news channels in the hotel room at the beginning of my trip, I realise it’s a popular pastime here, with a section of the weather forecast dedicated to the best spots to go that weekend to check out the vibrant changing colours of the leaves.
The national park seems an obvious choice but, as it spans 415 square miles, including 350 of miles of hiking trails, it can be difficult to know where to begin.
My day trip takes me to Horseshoe Falls, around 70 miles northwest of the city and to the north of the park.
It’s testament to its beauty that I happen upon two artists standing at their easels trying to capture in paint the meandering waterfall, tumbling over beige-coloured rocks as the morning sun shines down.
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While there are pretty trees at that low level, a drive further into the park and higher into the mountains (if you are fit enough and more adventurous, hiking and cycling are popular) reveals a riot of colour as aspens and pine trees stand tall in their green, yellow and gold hues.
Wildlife such as deer, elk and sheep are dotted around but the moose don’t make an appearance on this occasion, and I’ll admit I’m somewhat relieved not to spot a mountain lion (the common term for cougar or puma).
Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park with Aspire Tours starts from $189 (£145).
Living the high life
At more than 14,000 feet up, we can just about spot Kansas in the distance as we look out from the top of Pikes Peak, which is the highest summit in the southern Front Range of the Rocky Mountains.
The brave can hike or bike to the top along marked out trails, but the famous cog railway makes it more accessible for those who fancy an easier morning.
At three-and-a-half hours in total, you’ll need to set aside a day of your trip, but the views during the slow climb to the 14,115 feet summit are worth it.
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Giant boulders including the aptly-named diamond rock, glorious foliage and even a yellow-bellied marmot – a large ground squirrel – are all visible through the windows of our bright red train carriage.
As per it’s name, the train runs on a cog system, and has been in operation since 1891.
It’s nippy at the top so a jacket is a must, and it’s advisable to drink plenty of water to help keep altitude sickness at bay. For a treat at the summit, try one of the donuts made using a special recipe which fries them to crispy perfection in the thinner air, where the water has a lower boiling point.
An inscription at my feet tells me this is “where the heavens touch the earth” and the breathtaking view certainly has me awestruck.
A ride on the Pikes Peak Cog Railway is priced from $59 (£45).
Superb street art
“Talk Denver to me,” declares bright white text jumping out at me against a vibrant pink floral backdrop. It’s one of many eye-catching graffiti art murals dotted around the city.
The River North Art District (or RiNo district if you’re in the know) is a great place to take a stroll to view art – both commissioned and unannounced – by talented street artists.
My favourite is Larimer Boy and Girl, cleverly and painstakingly painted on long thin sheets of metal extruding from a building, bringing into view a colourful cartoonish girl’s face as you walk towards it in one direction and a boy if facing the other way.
The city is also home to numerous museums dedicated to art, history and even sport, all supported by an order enacted in the late 1980s ensuring arts funding to the tune of 1 per cent of any capital improvement project over a million dollars undertaken by the city.
For a slice of history, I step inside the well-preserved home of Titanic survivor Margaret (Molly) Brown – played by Kathy Bates in the blockbuster film.
Born to Irish immigrant parents in Missouri, she eventually settled with her husband in Denver. According to a quote outside the beautiful brownstone building on Pennsylvania Street, she once said: “I love Denver – I’m a western woman and proud of it.”
The home is luxurious, with stained glass windows, a piano in the living room and a bearskin rug resting underneath. Entry is covered within the Mile High Culture pass ($41/£32) alongside various other attractions; visit denver.org for more information.
Daring food and drink
Denver’s drier air means staying hydrated is key. While water is always on hand during my stay, I decide to try a quirkier and arguably less hydrating tipple known as Rocky Mountain Oyster Stout ($8/£6 a glass).
The Wynkoop brewery describes it as tasting of “chocolate, coffee and roasted grains” but the key ingredient to set it apart is the sliced and roasted bull’s testicles – an ingredient otherwise known as the Rocky Mountain Oyster. As I’m not a stout connoisseur I’m not sure I’m best placed to rate it out of 10, but it’s a good story to tell when I get back home.
Denver’s food scene is rich and varied, with great options for a variety of cuisines in one spot including Denver Central Market, which epitomises the city’s cool and hip vibe, with its long wooden sharing tables surrounded by vendors selling everything from pizza to freshly-made salads to s’more ice cream for dessert.
As I tuck into my pasta, groups of friends watch sport on the big screen, parents catch up as their children enjoy the buzzy atmosphere and some workers type at their laptops over a grilled cheese sandwich. For more information, visit denvercentralmarket.com.
How to plan your trip
Aer Lingus offers connections from 10 cities including London Heathrow, Manchester and Glasgow four times per week to Denver via Dublin from March to October. Passengers can pre-clear US Immigration in Dublin, generally avoiding queues when they land in the US.
Air Lingus offers economy fares from £359 each-way from London Heathrow to Denver via Dublin. Other regional departure points also available.
Stay at the centrally-located Maven hotel with prices starting from $265 (£205) per night, room only; themavenhotel.com
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