Port isn’t just for Christmas – but it’s a jolly good time to try it

Is port the wine of a certain sort of man from a certain sort of class and a certain sort of age? While traditional stereotypes might leave you thinking so, I would urge you to think again. Port is for everyone – trust me.

I know, port definitely gives strong “old school” trad-vibes, conjuring images of the military classes with their pomp and regalia, or Bullingdon Club-style public school boys who graduate to the leather chairs of old dusty gentlemen’s clubs. It can all feel rather stale, with “rules” about passing the bottle the “right way” (which is actually to the left), and asking if you “know the Bishop of Norwich” – not to mention the idea that it is only a wine for Christmas.

I am here to tell you it is all nonsense and should be ignored, because port is great. Yes, I realise the contradiction in writing about port so close to Christmas, but while it definitely isn’t just for the festive season, it really is a great excuse to drink it.

But what even is port? Quite simply it is a fortified wine which can only come from one place – the Douro Valley in northern Portugal. It is a staggeringly beautiful region of vertiginous terraced vineyards rising out of the fast flowing Douro River, which weaves its way to the noble city of Porto. Once here, the wine is aged in the port houses located in the historic neighbourhood of Vila Nova de Gaia.

It is a wine that has been made in this region for centuries, by an array of “houses”, many of which can trace their history back several hundred years. And while it may seem a “traditional wine”, it is completely timeless, unique and most importantly – utterly delicious.

Over 80 different grape varieties can be used in the production of port, but commonly, a handful of about six are regularly used, with Touriga Nacional being the backbone. Port starts its life on the same path as that of a regular still red wine, but during the fermentation process a grape brandy is added to arrest the process, so the yeast “go to sleep calmly” in the port. This means that port is a naturally sweet wine, and the extra oomph in alcohol comes from that addition of grape brandy.

The journey of that wine can then go in numerous stylistic directions, and this is where it gets confusing to consumers. But, the array of styles means one thing – there is a port to suit all palates. From the youthful energy of a ruby port that’s been aged for just two or three years in large barrels or stainless steel tanks.

Or, it might be destined to be a special reserve – a wine that is normally aged for about five years in barrels, so it has that time to mellow out and be immediately drinkable. Perhaps it was an outstanding year, and therefore it could be made into a vintage port – here the wine is bottled immediately and aged for some time before release. Perhaps it could be slightly more approachable than a traditional vintage, and become a late bottled vintage port, this refers to a wine that is from one single year, that is aged in casks and bottled prior to being sold.

And then we get to some of my favourite ports – tawny and white. Tawny ports are aged in barrel for a minimum of seven years (with most ages much longer), resulting in deep inky wine transforming into a soft amber, “tawny” hue – and the resulting flavour is softer, reminding you of caramel-covered roasted nuts.

Then there is the magical white port, which you should absolutely seek out, as it is a wonder. This is a port made from white grapes, and the best have age statements like a tawny port. And believe me, they can age. One of the most memorable wines I have tasted was a 50-year-old white from Kopke, and all I can say is: wow.

But, port is in crisis – it has fallen out of fashion, and we are not buying as much as we used to. Overall, the port industry has seen a 33 per cent drop in volume of production in the past 20 years. Coupling this with rising costs of energy, shipping and labour – the production of port is a highly labour-intensive process – the future looks far from ruby.

However, producers are diversifying and making more non-fortified wines, which are usually of outstanding quality, and they can be a great gateway to discovering this glorious region.

While it may seem beyond the comfort zone of many of us, I assure you that a strong, sweet wine is both a treat and highly versatile. It keeps for about two to three weeks (I suggest you store it in the fridge to retain freshness), with tawny ports lasting even longer (I always have a bottle of Kopke 10-year-old tawny port in my fridge door).

And then there is the multitude of food pairings, from cheeses such as stilton and aged cheddar, through to pates and, of course, desserts such as spiced apple crumbles or chocolate roulades. I have even enjoyed white port with ginger infused scallops.

So, in the spirit of Christmas, why not open your arms to port and keep that warm embrace throughout the whole year. It is a wine cuddle you will love, I promise.

Morrisons, £9.25, 19% abv

A gorgeous, lively fruit-forward port – rich dense plums and bright red cherry fruit. A little grip, but it is so soft in the mouth with good, long length. A great example of the value that port can deliver.

Sainsbury’s, £14.50 (£11 with Nectar), 20% abv

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Aged for at least five years before release, this port is a great bridge between a ruby port and vintage port. Dark ripe cherries, sweet confected blackcurrants, with hints of sweet spices and vanilla. A delicious drop.

Waitrose, £24.99, 19.5% abv

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From the highly respected Noval estate, the grapes here have been both hand-harvested and foot-trodden. A rich and concentrated wine, with plush dark black fruits, notes of dark chocolate, and a lick of cinnamon and liquorice. It is a really refined wine, and could age further, or be enjoyed immediately.

The Wine Society £44, 20% abv

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I love this wine. It has so many layers of flavour, think roasted hazelnuts, candied orange, salted caramel and tender dried apricots. There is a beautiful freshness and concentration too – the intensity keeps going. Once opened, it would keep in the fridge for up to eight weeks, so no need to rush this.

Majestic £29.99 (£21.99 mixed six), 20.5% abv

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Croft is a respected producer, and the first to create a vintage port in 1781. This is made only in the best years, and has an appealing nose of sweet cassis, black cherry and dark, bitter chocolate.

Waitrose £37.99 (£32.99 until 1/1/25), 20% abv

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A sweet wine with a deep savoury depth, that might sound like a contradiction, but it’s a beautifully tasting one. It has candied orange peel, sweet woody spice, toasted nuts, dried fruits and deep caramel – it is just exquisite, a total treat.

Rosamund Hall (DipWSET) is a writer, presenter and columnist specialising in wine and spirits as well as lifestyle, travel and parenting