Why copycat wines are on the rise – and the ones you should try

I wonder if Oscar Wilde was talking about copycat wine when he said: “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness.” Not that any of the copycat wines I’ve tasted recently would be classed as mediocre.

Dupes and copycats are nothing new in the world of beauty and fashion – they are the affordable lookalike of luxury items, whether it’s an expensive skin cream or designer handbag. When it comes to wine, the trend is very much on the increase, and it seems that it’s well and truly having its moment.

I love copycat wines, but not for the reasons you might imagine. There is something enlightening and democratising about them – they bring an awareness about the wines they’re trying to emulate. They can even serve as a great introduction to these more premium wines that you might want to try, and they can help consumers home in on what tastes they actually enjoy.

They offer a taste that is similar to expensive brands, and their popularity is understandable as they give us the opportunity to enjoy the flavours of expensive wines without breaking the bank. And if I were the owner of a large brand, I’d be thanking the inspired copycats for bringing a whole new audience to my wines.

Copycat wines are having their moment on social media, with influencers, vinfluencers, and everyone in between staging their own “I can’t believe this isn’t the real deal” posts. It’s energising and exciting to see wine moving beyond the staid past of a world occupied by entitled white men in red trousers.

And so, in that spirit, here’s a roundup of some of my current favourite copycats – and the wines that might have inspired them.

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The copycat: Montaudon Champagne Brut, France, NV

£14.99 (available in Lidl stores nationwide)

Montaudon certainly has the look and sound of a Grand Marque champagne. It’s bright and jolly in the glass, with a nose that’s full of fresh citrus and a touch of apple danish pastry. It’s a classic champagne blend of 40 per cent pinot noir, 35 per cent chardonnay, and 25 per cent pinot meunier, and delivers a lot of champagne for the price. When a bottle of prosecco isn’t far off this price now, I would definitely switch it up and choose this champagne instead.

The real deal: Moet et Chandon Imperial Brut, France, NV

£37 (available nationwide including at Sainsbury’s)

I don’t always instinctively choose large champagne brands to drink, so I thought Moet et Chandon deserved a retaste. And reader, I was not disappointed. You might think that the world’s largest champagne brand might get complacent and rest on the fortune of its name, but it hasn’t.

It’s a textbook “good” champagne – the initial burst of fresh apples gives way to flavours of toasted almonds and freshly baked warm buttery brioche. It has real length, and is rather rich and decadent – it definitely made me feel like my life had a touch of glamour after days spent trying to potty-train my son.

It’s currently on offer at Sainsbury’s, and, with a further 25 per cent off if you buy any six still or sparkling wines, it comes in at a very well priced £27.75 per bottle.

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The copycat: Specially Selected Le Bourgeron Pinot Noir 2023

£6.99 (available in Aldi stores nationwide)

This wine isn’t actually from Burgundy, the spiritual homeland of France’s world-famous grape variety. Instead, it’s made over in the southwest of France in the region of Limoux. What does that mean? Cheaper land prices that allow for the production of high-quality grapes at a more affordable price for the consumer.

Aldi consistently delivers good-quality wines at a staggering price, and this is a perfect example of that. Pouring this wine is like crushing an abundance of cherries and blueberries. It’s juicy, fresh and super fun, and astonishingly good for the price.

The real deal: Rully, Joseph Drouhin, Burgundy, France 2020

£25.99 (available nationwide including at Waitrose)

If you want to treat yourself, then this is a stunning option to delve into the world of pinot noir from Burgundy, eastern France. It is a seriously classy wine from the village of Rully, located in the southern end of Burgundy – an area not as famous as the more northerly villages, making it far better value for money.

This has glassfuls of plush and velvety red fruits, all wound up with hints of cinnamon and sweet vanilla. It’s generous, but with a freshness and elegance that you would expect from a fine pinot noir. Joseph Drouhin is a great producer, and this is a real delight.

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The copycat: Specially Selected Kooliburra Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia, 2022

£6.79 (available nationwide from Aldi)

Aldi may not have over 100 years of winemaking heritage, but it’s done an outstanding job of creating a wine from two of Australia’s premium wine-growing regions: Coonawarra and Barossa.

It’s been aged in oak barrels for 14 months, which gives it a richness and complexity that belies the price tag. It’s a full-bodied and deeply warming red, with punchy confected berries and cherries and licks of vanilla and dark chocolate. I actually don’t know how they’ve made this wine for the price it’s currently available for.

The real deal: Max’s Shiraz/Cabernet, Penfolds, Australia 2021

£20 (available widely nationwide but is currently £15 at Asda)

Penfold’s is one of Australia’s oldest, most internationally famous and respected wine brands, whose range includes one of the world’s most expensive wines, Grange. I, however, am not going to suggest that you drink that (as nice as it would be).

The joy with Penfolds is that it creates wines with the same level of care, quality of fruit and dedicated winemaking at all price points, making them more attainable for you and me. If you love a rich, ripe and velvety smooth wine that feels like it’s enveloping you in a jammy blackcurrant cuddle with hints of chocolate, coffee and vanilla, then this is the wine for you. The generous fruit lingers on your palate for quite some time – the hallmark of a quality wine.

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The copycat: Deluxe Sauvignon Blanc, Awatere Valley, New Zealand 2022

£8.29 (available nationwide from Lidl)

You can be left in no doubt that you know you’re drinking a New Zealand savvy-b when you pour this into your glass: it’s upfront and unashamedly proud of itself. I really enjoy its aromas and flavours of tropical passionfruit and elderflower, which are wrapped up nicely with super-fresh acidity.

It may not have the finesse and length of a more premium label, but it’s giving it a pretty good run for its money, and if you enjoy New Zealand sauvignon, this definitely deserves a try.

The real deal: Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2023

£26.99 (available nationwide including at Majestic)

There is arguably only one wine that put New Zealand on the global wine list, and this is it. While it may divide opinion, its importance as the flagbearer for wines from Marlborough can’t be denied.

When I taste this wine, I feel like I’ve jumped into a huge bowl of fruit salad – there’s mountains of grapefruit, peach, nectarine and gooseberry, and a squeeze of fresh lime – ahead of some fresh herbal notes, too. It definitely hung around in my mouth for a long time, and the fresh, racy acidity was rather quenching and appealing. Love it or loathe it, you can’t deny this is a very well made wine.

Rosamund Hall (DipWSET) is a freelance writer and wine expert