Poldark series 2: how to follow in his footsteps in Cornwall, from the cliffs to the moors

With Aidan Turner returning to screens as the country's favourite renegade mine owner this weekend, here's how to channel your inner Ross Poldark

Nicola Trup
Friday 02 September 2016 12:27 EDT
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Park Head, where characters spend a lot of time riding on horseback
Park Head, where characters spend a lot of time riding on horseback (National Trust)

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Poldark is back. Sunday marks the start of series two, when we’ll find out what has become of Ross Poldark since his dramatic arrest for murder and looting at the end of the last series.

Series two promises just as much clifftop action
Series two promises just as much clifftop action

The show is shot on location in Cornwall, against a dramatic backdrop of moors and cliffs, and every tourism business worth its salt has been clamouring to stake its claim on Ross et al. The National Trust has even got its rangers on the Lizard National Nature Reserve scything, in a (non-topless) homage to that iconic scene from the first series. And Visit Cornwall has produced a Poldark map (visitcornwall.com/poldark), which will guide devotees around key filming locations. Here are a few of our Cornish highlights for serious Poldark fans.

Port of call

Doubling as Truro in series one and two, Charlestown was built in the 1790s to serve the mining industry. Today it’s still a relatively low-key fishing village, home to a Grade II-listed Georgian harbour and a handful of tall ships that will give you a glimpse of the 18th century. A historic spot to stay is The Rashleigh Arms (rashleigharms.co.uk), which offers rooms in a Georgian townhouse on the seafront, as well as in the 150-year old pub. Doubles from £99, B&B.

Charlestown
Charlestown (Matthew Jessop/Visit Cornwall)

Hikes and hacks

Ross, Demelza and co seem to be forever galloping across a clifftop on horseback. The location? Park Head, on the north coast – though some other clifftop scenes were shot at St Agnes Head, slightly further west. In real life Park Head is not a top spot for equestrianism, but the Park Head Walk will take you up the cliff, where you can gaze out onto the sea stacks and Bedruthan Steps.

St Agnes Head
St Agnes Head (Matthew Jessop/Visit Cornwall)

If you do want to give riding a go, head to windswept Bodmin Moor, where exteriors of Ross’s cottage, Nampara, were shot, and where many horseback scenes were filmed. Hallagenna (hallagenna.co.uk) offers riding holidays on Bodmin Moor from £220pp for three days, including B&B and two two-hour rides.

Bodmin Moor
Bodmin Moor (Adam Gibbard)

All mine

You can’t follow in the footsteps of Poldark without crossing paths with a mine – and they’re so important to the West Country that the Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape is a Unesco World Heritage Site.

In the series, Botallack (nationaltrust.org.uk/botallack) stands in for the Poldark family’s Wheal Leisure and Grambler mines. The site, which was abandoned in 1895, is now home to abandoned buildings where you can explore mining history.

Levant Mine
Levant Mine (David Noton/National Trust Images)

Elsewhere, Levant (nationaltrust.org.uk/levant-mine-and-beam-engine) plays the role of Tressiders Rolling Mill, where the copper from the Poldark mine is processed. There are free guided tours of the site, which is home to a restored steam-powered beam engine, which raised the copper and tin ore, dating back to 1840.

Go to jail

When Ross went to the aid of an incarcerated Jim, it was to Bodmin Jail (bodminjail.org), which housed prisoners for nearly 150 years until 1927. It’s now a visitor attraction that’s open for tours (including the apparently “working” execution pit), ghost walks and even weddings. General admission £10.

Bodmin Jail
Bodmin Jail

Dine out

Okay, so it's not strictly a location for the series, but Porthgwarra Cove Café (staubynestatesholidays.co.uk) is a pretty spot (open summer only) that served pasties to the cast and crew during filming – even staying open during an all-night shoot. Word has it they also serve a cracking cream tea.

Poldark starts at 9pm on 4 September, on BBC One

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