Hotel Amano: stay in the heart of the action with this bougie new pad in London’s Covent Garden

Hotel Amano Covent Garden is tucked right behind the Theatre Royal Drury Lane, which means you’re also a stone’s throw from some of London’s cultural and historical heavyweights. Take a stroll along Embankment before ducking into Somerset House or the Courtauld to admire the latest art exhibitions. From there you can check out the Strand on your way to Trafalgar Square, taking your pick of any number of afternoon teas at the Ritz, the Savoy, the Langham or the Dorchester. Work up an appetite before an evening of dinner and the theatre with a walk around Hyde Park, perhaps stopping to admire Buckingham Palace on your way back.

Despite being smack bang in the heart of London’s flashy, bustling West End, the Amano’s facade is surprisingly dignified. Without the guests walking in and out with their luggage, you could confuse the interior with the entrance of some ultra-exclusive spa. Impressive, yes, but it also feels as though designers Woods Bagot missed a trick, particularly given the hotel’s restaurant, Penelope’s, is based around the vibrant Israeli-Spanish heritage of Amano co-founder Ariel Schiff. Instead, rooms are business-like and modern, all grey walls and grey felt headboards, with dark wood accents and gold fixtures, along with unremarkable prints of moody women on the walls. For an extra injection of glitz, in the Goldy rooms you’re also treated to a freestanding gold bathtub; bath salts and oils are provided (though some bubble bath wouldn’t go amiss). The rooftop terrace and restaurant are more of the same – classy and elegant, yes, but somewhat lacking in character and originality.

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Service is mixed. While the reception desk is warm, helpful and efficient, the rooftop staff take some time to attend to a drink spillage, after not one but two requests for napkins. Yet the restaurant team are a delight, with maître d’ Paolo a warm and effusive personality who makes the experience of dining at Penelope’s feel like you’re visiting a friend’s home.

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The Hotel Amano has 141 rooms, including its five Goldy suites. Sizes range from “Cosy” to “Roomy Plus” – the former is certainly compact, but still comes with a queensize bed. All the other rooms, from “Comfy” to “Roomy”, have a king bed, coffee and tea station, and plenty of smart storage space.

Bathrooms are kitted out with full-size toiletries, including a delightful exfoliating handwash from German brand Daluma. The floor-to-ceiling windows in the corner-set Goldy bedrooms are impressive, sure, but you have to edge around the bathtub in order to close the curtains (the window isn’t made from privacy glass, so unless you’re planning on flashing the cast of Frozen, we’d advise on doing so).

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Penelope’s has potential to become the crown jewel of the Amano Covent Garden, perhaps after a touch of fine-tuning. Here, the dark and moody decor contributes to the decadent atmosphere set by much of the menu, put together by Shimon Peretz, head chef at Amano’s Mani restaurant in Berlin, and Penelope’s executive chef Fezile Ozalgan, formerly of Barboun, Shoreditch.

Start with a pre-dinner cocktail – the intriguing Psichee with tequila, mezcal and squid ink, or the smoky, spicy Pasión de Malaga – before perusing the restaurant’s excellent wine selection. The small plates are a little hit and miss, but winners include the tuna ceviche and rough taboon bread served with green harissa, spicy yogurt and whipped cod’s roe. The main dishes of chicken shawarma with mujaddara and the hake with haricot beans are remarkably salty, which is a shame as both (small) portions are well-cooked. At £25 and £32 a pop, you’d expect a slightly more generous serving. We’re won over by the sinfully rich baklava cheesecake, with its crisp pastry soaked in honey syrup and generous scattering of pistachios.

You can find more cheesecake on the rooftop bar menu, along with Israel-style meze, snacks, and mains including a Hereford sirloin, whole seabass and paella. The compact but inventive cocktail list, along with extensive wines, champagne and digestifs, is also available, while the staff are happy to whip up an off-menu (but classic) espresso martini.

Breakfast is served in the same space as Penelope’s, with either a classic continental spread of pastries, breads, fresh fruit, yogurt and cheeses, or hot options including a brilliantly spicy shakshuka (a single egg, as opposed to the plural baked “eggs” advertised on the menu), buttermilk pancakes with figs and orange cream, or smashed avocado and poached eggs.

If you’re looking for a hotel with built-in entertainment, you’re likely to be disappointed. The Amano Covent Garden doesn’t offer amenities outside of the rooftop bar and restaurant, so you’re out of luck if you prefer your hotels to include a spa or gym. But, with so much of London’s best bits on offer within walking distance, it’s hard to imagine you’d feel bored during your stay.

Room count: 141 rooms including five “Goldy” suites.

Freebies: Tea and coffee station, bottle of water.

Wifi: Free.

Disability access: Accessible rooms come with large wet rooms with benches, while the corridors and lifts can accommodate wheelchairs.

Pet policy: Dogs are welcome, with a £10 per night fee per pet. Service animals are exempt from fees.

Best thing: The location, which is about as close to the action as you could want while still offering a quiet and peaceful atmosphere, and the glamour and fun of the restaurant.

Worst thing: For the prices, the dinner menu needs a little work, while the decor could also use a rethink to make it feel more in-keeping with its excellent location.

Perfect for: A sophisticated stay for well-heeled couples, or for those looking to be within easy reach of London’s culture while in town on business.

Not right for: Families, or those who like to include a morning workout or spa treatment in their hotel stay.

Instagram from: The rooftop terrace, either with the surprisingly real-looking floral arrangements in the background, or views towards the South Bank.

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