8 of the best things to do on the Isles of Scilly
How to make the most of a trip to the sub-tropical archipelago
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The UK is blessed with an array of potential destinations for anyone who wants to swap far-flung destinations for a staycation.
While city breaks, rural retreats and coastal breaks are often on the domestic traveller’s hitlist, Britain’s islands also offer a chance to feel like you’re heading overseas while leaving the passport at home.
The idyllic Isles of Scilly off the coast of Cornwall are one such enticing option, home to just over 2,000 inhabitants across the five main islands of St Mary’s, Tresco, Bryher, St Agnes and St Martin’s.
This little archipelago that lies almost 28 miles southwest of Land’s End is an ideal spot for a staycation that feels like a trip abroad, with an array of charming towns, a sub-tropical climate and white sand beaches lapped by Caribbean-esque aquamarine waters.
Here’s our pick of must-do activities and attractions to tick off during a trip to the UK’s southernmost isles.
Visit all the (inhabited) Isles
Although the Isles of Scilly total 150, only five of these are inhabited. St Mary’s will be your first stop on the Isles, as it’s home to the main airport and ferry terminal. A good base for your trip, it also houses many of Scilly’s historical attractions.
It’s easy to hop between here and the other islands thank to regular boat services. The other four main isles are Tresco, Bryher, St Agnes and St Martin’s. Tresco – a well-maintained island that is privately owned – is the site of the Tresco Abbey Gardens, one of the Isles’ most popular tourist sites, and laid-back St Martin’s is home to a plethora of beaches that are reminiscent of those in the Caribbean, plus has its own vineyard you can tour.
Bryher and St Agnes are the two smallest inhabited islands in the archipelago (their populations are around 90 and 70 people respectively), and neither is short on natural beauty and charm. Rugged Bryher can sometimes be walked to from Tresco at low-tide and is host to a famous artist’s studio, while unspoilt St Agnes has flower fields, stone stacks and cairns dotted across its ivory-sand beaches.
Embrace nature
Though only 28 miles away from the mainland, the natural landscape and wildlife on these islands are pleasantly different. The entire archipelago has been a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty since 1975, with its dramatic granite cliffs, wide sandy bays, tropical flora and heathlands.
The azure waters that surround the isles contain coral reefs and natural harbours that house marine habitats. At night the skies come alive with stars – each island has a designated Dark Skies Discovery site, with the Milky Way potentially visible due to a lack of light pollution.
The small human population has allowed wildlife to thrive too. You may spot grey seals, dolphins, a range of freshwater and saltwater fish and even the odd sea turtle or basking shark. On land, keep your eyes peeled for endemic animals and birds that are rarely (if ever) seen in the rest of the UK: the Scilly Shrew, St Martin’s Ant, Scillonian Specked Wood Butterfly and Scilly Bee are all unique to the Isles, while puffins, oystercatchers, kittiwakes, herring gulls and Manx shearwaters are all often spotted.
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Hit the beach
Home to roughly 35 beaches, the Isles of Scilly is one of the most untouched, tranquil seaside destinations in the UK. These beaches can rival far more exotic locations, with fine white sands that ease into deep blue waters, surrounded by low heathland and grassy dunes and backed by verdant hills and rocky cliffs.
Each island has its own selection of sandy stretches; St Martin’s offers Great Bay, Little Bay and Higher Town Bay, all often voted among the best beaches in the UK. On Tresco, Pentle Bay is another “best beaches” list-topper, and Appletree Bay and Old Grimsby offer similarly wide expanses of unspoilt sands.
The smaller islands have a range of even quieter beaches, from the sheltered Rushy Bay and Great Porth on Bryher to the more rugged Periglis Cove and Beady Pool on St Agnes.
You’ll find a mix on the largest island of St Mary’s – head to the tiny Watermill Cove or the secluded Pelistry Bay for a quiet spot, or visit Porth Mellon or Town Beach for something close to the largest settlement, Hugh Town.
Get on the water
The Isles’ vast expanse of sea and range of beaches also bring a variety of water-based activities. Sea swimming is popular as many of the beaches have calm, safe waters (though it is best to avoid swimming in areas where there are sand bars, including Pelistry). Water sports such as kayaking, paddleboarding, kitesurfing, coasteering, snorkelling and deep sea diving are also popular, offering the potential to cavort with seals and even explore some of the near 1,000 shipwrecks.
If you prefer to stay physically out of the water, there are a range of boat-based activities, from fishing trips and wildlife safaris to sailing and self-guided motorboat trips.
Exlore the great outdoors
There are plenty of outdoor pursuits to enjoy on dry land. For a start, the isles are made for walking; the highest point is just 51 metres above sea level, making for easier, more relaxed walks, while there are dozens of trails – 30 miles worth on St Mary’s alone – that will take you along the coast, through heaths and across the entire length of these compact islands. There are also several expert-led options with resident guides who know all about the islands’ flora and fauna.
Bikes are a popular way to get around the islands, with companies including St Mary’s Bicycle Hire providing rates from £22 for a 24-hour rental. For something a little different, St Mary’s Riding Centre offers one-hour horseback treks along beaches, coastline and tracks for £50 per person. Alternatively, head to the Isles of Scilly Golf Club for sensational views as you play.
Activities such as hiking, climbing and yoga are available on some of the isles, but it’s worth bearing in mind that much of the infrastructure for activities is located on St Mary’s.
Discover the history
There’s a remarkable assortment of historic sites: 239 to be exact, making it the place with the highest density of historic sites in the UK. These range from shipwrecks and 17th-century lighthouses to English Civil War castles and prehistoric settlements.
For prehistoric sites, the best destination is St Mary’s. The island possesses a range of Bronze Age burial sites – from Bant’s Carn to the Porth Hellick Down Burial Chamber – and is the site of Halangy Down Ancient Village, an Iron Age settlement with two entrance graves and several standing stones.
If you want to discover more recent and military history, Tresco contains the widest selection of fortifications (though the famous Garrison, used from the 1500s up until World War II, sits on St Mary’s). The most well-known are King Charles’ Castle and Cromwell’s Castle, named accordingly by Royalist and Parliamentary forces during the Civil War in the 1650s. The Old Blockhouse, built in the 1540s and overlooking Old Grimsby Harbour, is the oldest fortification.
Other landmarks include the six lighthouses (dating from between 1680 and 1911), the Isles of Scilly Museum, and the Valhalla Collection, which showcases around 30 figureheads from shipwrecked vessels through the years.
Travel to uninhabited islands
With some surrounded by shipwrecks and others with remains of early Christian chapels, the Isles of Scilly’s 140 or so uninhabited islands are a great opportunity to enjoy a relaxing day away from it all. The best-known are Samson, St Helen’s and Tean, all with a mixture of remains, ruins and deserted beaches.
The best way to see these islands is by boat. There are options to hire your own sailing boat, motorboat or charter boat, as well as opportunities to ride on glass-bottom boats and go on wildlife safaris. One-hour guided tours start from £17 per adult, while a day tour in a yacht costs around £250 per person. For self-guided hire, motorboats start from £90 for a three-hour hire (£130 for an entire day), and dinghies and day boats start at £33 for one hour.
Sample local cuisine
The wide-scale use of local and seasonal produce on the Isles, from wine produced by the UK’s most southerly vineyard to fish caught by a local fisherman, is what typifies its excellent cuisine.
The Turk’s Head pub greets visitors to St Agnes, while the friendly Coastguards Lookout cafe provides standard cafe fare. On St Martin’s, the family-run Sevenstones Inn features classic pub food in a rustic setting, and Adam’s fish and chips shop offers fish caught earlier in the day by the owner himself. Despite its size, Bryher also has a number of well-regarded eateries, from Olivia’s Kitchen cafe, with soups, sandwiches and hot drinks, to the Crab Shack, a venue serving a simple menu of scallop starters, large crabs and accompaniments.
On Tresco, the New Inn provides simple pub food and a sunny terrace, while The Flying Boat’s tapas and deli menus offer a taste of something different. St Mary’s has the widest variety of places to dine and drink, from relaxed eateries such as Hugh Street Cafe and a barbecue-style restaurant The Beach to more upmarket places such as the Star Castle Hotel, The Hall at St Mary’s Hall Hotel and On The Quay. Wherever you go, fresh local crab is likely to be on the menu.
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