Best hotels in East Sussex for romance and sea views

Not so long ago, visiting East Sussex meant a day trip to Brighton or possibly extending your visit to a mildly hungover night in the nearest available B&B. But the county has so much more to offer than a sunburnt nose and a throbbing head.

For food and drink connoisseurs, there’s many an award-winning vineyard to visit. For people looking to make the most of nature, explore the lush gardens and great walks along the South Downs National Park – we recommend Devil’s Dyke, which is a 4.3-mile circular walk as rich in wildlife as it is in far-reaching views. There’s even a clutch of super-cool art galleries that are well worth a visit.

Thanks to the range of activities on offer, there’s no shortage of gorgeous hotels to choose from either. And with the news that Towner art gallery will be hosting the Turner Prize from September this year until mid January 2024, we’ve included in our recommendations a couple of Eastbourne boltholes that will please even the pickiest of art-lovers.

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Worry no longer about drink-driving limits – some of the county’s biggest players on the vineyard scene now offer overnight stays. The sprawling Rathfinny Estate, where you can even marry among the vines, has an exquisitely converted flintstone barn constructed from locally sourced materials. Its 10 light-flooded rooms have the look of a highly glam hostel: vintage blankets and old-school bedsteads mix with bare flint walls, vaulted ceilings and picture windows overlooking the vines.

There’s a communal living room with slouchy sofas, alongside a courtyard where you can relax over a glass of Rathfinny’s finest sparkling. Afterwards, dine at Flint Barns or the Michelin-recommended Tasting Room. Both offer locally sourced goodies such as Sussex asparagus, Romney Marsh lamb and Newhaven seabream.

Charleston, the spiritual home of the Bloomsbury Set, is six miles away; pretty Alfriston village, just two miles; and the 100-mile long South Downs Way is easily accessible.

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Brighton too crowded? Head instead to Camber Sands and you’ll find The Gallivant – a stunning adults-only boutique hotel plonked within coastal gardens opposite the beach. Half hotel, half members-only club, this former motel is pure Scandi-chic meets New-England cool. Weathered timber walls and breezy beachy furnishings enliven its 20 smallish bedrooms. Some have private sun decks, and despite the lack of sea-views, all have divine mattresses alongside quirky details such as framed vintage swimming costumes.

Spend time in historic Rye or on blustery dune walks, then pop into the Bamford Spa for an Indian head massage. Before you know it, it’s “English Wine at five” time. The Gallivant prides itself on offering a substantial English wine list, and thinking local is its mantra.

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The impossibly pretty harbour town of Rye is where Henry James put down roots in 1897, and his home is now a fascinating museum. That said, Rye is worthy of a visit in its own right, not least for the stunningly intact half-timbered houses along its high street, and those airy views over marshland from the castle.

The jewel among the hotel offerings here is the George in Rye. Its brick and beam Georgian bar and cosy antiques-stuffed sitting rooms offset a clutch of cool Hamptons-style clapboard bedrooms – but all of the 32 rooms have character. Bold statement wallpaper and local art? Tick. Sparkly chandeliers and sleigh beds? No problem. Hate noise? Pick a courtyard room at the back.

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Remember that Faye Weldon TV drama, The Lives and Loves of a She-Devil? Well, said she-devil lived in an atmospherically wind-battered lighthouse with dazzling views along the Seven Sisters to Beachy Head – and it was filmed at Belle Tout. Today, guests can experience something of the glamour and glory enjoyed by the drama’s antagonist, played by actress Patricia Hodge.

This 19th-century lighthouse was decommissioned in 1902, and as a highly quirky B&B, it’s the perfect option for walkers wanting to try out the challenging coastal pathway running from Eastbourne to pretty Cuckmere Haven. Each of the five bedrooms has its own highly individual style, but quite the most unique is the original Keeper’s Loft: a circular bedroom featuring exposed brick walls, a ladder to a cosy bed, and dreamy views onto Beachy Head lighthouse. At 5pm, guests mingle over drinks in the lounge, then, when night falls, head up to the lantern for 365-degree views of a star-studded sky.

Price: Doubles from £195, B&B

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Yes, it’s expensive, but with its mile-long, rhododendron-lined driveway and unutterably dreamy Elizabethan manor house, Gravetye ticks all the boxes for a romantic stay. Plonked within Sussex downlands and surrounded by William Robinson’s visionary Victorian gardens, this is the ultimate country house hotel – and even better, it’s far from stuffy.

This is the sort of pampering bolthole that urges you to put your feet up in front of a log fire and drink in the smells of wood smoke and fresh flowers. The look is timeless and romantic: mullioned windows, wellington boots by the front door, wood-panelling, oil paintings and flower-sprigged fabrics.

Among the 17 charmingly old-world bedrooms are four-poster rooms with idyllic garden views. Spend time mooching around the gardens (don’t miss the circular walled kitchen garden), exploring the countryside or dozing by the fire, then enjoy Graveytye’s exceptional Michelin-starred cuisine majoring on home-grown produce. The pistachio-toned dining room has floor-to-ceiling glass walls, allowing for lovely garden views while you eat.

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The Star is born – Olga and Alex Polizzi’s hotel venture can be found in the achingly pretty village of Alfriston – and, for style-seekers, this one is definitely a winner. The mother-and-daughter renovation of a 15th-century pub has resulted in a stunning blend of antique to mid-century and modern. Oodles of eye-candy can be found in quirky detailing: Panama hats and wellingtons left out for guests to explore the South Downs National Park; framed Glyndebourne posters, secret doors and unusual doorknobs. In fact, this is a hotel where you need to keep your eyes peeled for the unexpected.

The 30 bedrooms (including nine junior suites) carry a strong English-countryside theme in pretty plant-themed wallpaper, sage green weatherboarding, fresh flowers and stylish contemporary furniture. The restaurant goes heavy on local produce, and the ancient beamed bar still pulls in local punters.

Price: Doubles from £210, B&B

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Woody Allen gave it the thumbs up; so too, Kylie Minogue and Cate Blanchett. Drakes is Brighton’s seriously stylish and sexy hotel par excellence. Set diagonally opposite Brighton Palace Pier and spread across two Georgian townhouses, this boutique hotel mixes Art Deco-style glamour with an ocean-liner twist. Think oodles of style in porthole windows, curvy cornicing, rolltop tubs set beneath floor-to-ceiling windows, mid-century furniture and fabulously indulgent beds in all 20 bedrooms.

Feature bedrooms, with enormous wet rooms, sea views, telescopes and statement furniture, are truly dreamy, but they can get a bit noisy. If that’s an issue, pick one of the equally glamorous rooms at the back. On the ground floor, there’s a small and clubby cocktail bar – very much a locals’ favourite – while the hotel’s new restaurant Dilsk promises sustainable food, meticulously sourced from ethical growers and local producers. Fancy a love hamper? A massage or yoga in your room? Nothing is too much trouble to arrange – and all of Brighton’s major attractions are just 10-15 minutes’ walk away.

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Push aside any thoughts you have about Eastbourne’s drab moniker as “God’s waiting room”, there’s much more to this seaside locale than meets the eye. Artisan cafés and restaurants have already upped the food ante; add to that trendy pubs and indie shops and we’d go as far as to say that the town may one day challenge Brighton as East Sussex’s go-to seaside resort.

Eastbourne’s cool credentials kicked off in 2021 with the opening of Port Hotel, a 19-bedroom eco-minded and Scandi-inspired bolthole. Outside, it’s all moody black Victoriana – inside, think blond wood detailing in its buzzy open-plan social space. The bedrooms carry a muted Seventies feel, with retro kettles, soft palettes and cork flooring. Six of the bedrooms face the sea, and a clutch are reserved for guests bringing dogs.

Plus, if you’re into that whole sharing-plates thing, you’ll love Port Hotel’s mini-meals with their Sussex artisanal ingredients. What’s more, after a yomp over the Seven Sisters to Beachy Head, there’s a gorgeous sun-trap terrace for relaxing cocktails.

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