Prague: a visitor's guide

Saturday 07 June 1997 18:02 EDT
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Accommodation

Top range

Pension U Raka: In line for best guest house in the world. Classy, peaceful family home in city centre, luxuriously old world. Tel: 00 42 2 351453.

Pariz: Restored Art Nouveau hotel, next to Old Town's Powder Tower.

Tel: 00 42 2 24222151.

Middle Range

U Pava: Neo-classical inn in Mala Strana with wonderful views. Bolt-hole from the bustle. Tel: 00 42 2 24510922.

Bottom Range

Kampa: In a green hideaway on Mala Strana, a Baroque armoury turned clean hostel. Tel: 00 42 2 24510409.

Pension Unitas: Where Vaclav Havel was incarcerated. Metal pipes and bunk beds. Tel: 00 42 2 2323736/2327700.

GALLERIES, MUSEUMS

National Gallery: Housed in Steinberg Palace in the Hradcany. Admission: 50 koruna; open daily except Monday, 10-6.

Narodni Museum: Sprawling 19th-century monument to Czech nationalism at top of Wenceslas Square with acres of exhibits. Admission: 40 koruna; open daily 10-6, closed first Monday of each month.

Dvork Museum: Artefacts from the composer's life, near Charles Bridge. Admission: 10 koruna; open daily, except Monday, 10-5.

PRIVATE TOURS

Kafka: Starts from under the clock in Old Town Square at 1.00pm just turn up and pay guide. 200 koruna.

Velvet Revolution: Starts from same place at 2.00pm. 200 koruna.

RESTAURANTS, CAFeS

U tri pstrosu: Near Charles Bridge in Mala Strana. Traditional Bohemian and international food. Pricey.

Myslivna: City's best game restaurant. Moderate. A cab ride out of the centre, to Jagellonska 21.

Ethno-Cafe: New age, bright and breezy international cuisine. Husova, near Old Town Square.

Europa: Central European-style cafe, part of famous hotel in Prague 1. THE place to be seen in Wenceslas Square.

PUBS, BARS

U Fleku: Medieval courtyard and famous black beer. Busy. Kremencova 11, Nove Mesto.

U vystreleneho oka: Noisy, arty, student hangout - escape upstairs to tearoom if necessary - but great atmosphere. U bozich bojovniku, off Husitsku.

James Joyce Irish Pub: Liliova 10, near Old Square.

MUSIC

Classical

Concerts at Obecni dum, Dvork Hall; opera and ballet at Narodni divadlo, Statni Opera Praha, Stavovske divadlo.

Jazz

Reduta: Full programme of local and international musicians. Narodni 20, Nove Mesto.

Agharta: Intimate nightclub atmosphere. Krakovska 5, Nove Mesto.

Rock

Rock Cafe, Narodni 22, Nove Mesto. Borat, Ujezd 18, Mala Strana. RC Bunkr, Lodecka 2, Nove Mesto. Malostranska Beseda, Malostranske Namesti 21, Mala Strana.

Belmondo Revival Club, Bubenska 1, Prague 7, cab ride out of centre.

HOW TO GET THERE

British Airways: Two flights per day from Heathrow, including Saturday night stay, from pounds 184. Tel: 0345 222111.

Czech Airlines: Two flights per day from Heathrow, one from Stansted, including Saturday-night stay, pounds 189.

Tel: 0171 255 1898.

Travellers' Czech: three-day trip, with return flight and hotel accommodation, from pounds 184; nine-day coach trip, with pension accommodation, pounds 194.

Tel: 01959 540700.

Czech Tourist Authority, 95 Great Portland St, London WIN 5RA. Tel: 0171 291 9920.

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