The hidden side of New York perfect for your next holiday
The Big Apple is just one slice of New York State – Hannah Stephenson heads beyond the city to discover more
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A girls’ trip to New York State might commonly be associated with shopping, chi-chi cocktails, maybe a show on Broadway and a flurry of selfies in front of the dramatic skyline and iconic architecture.
But the Big Apple is just one slice of New York State and, embarking on a road trip with my daughter Grace, we’re nowhere near the Manhattan Bridge, the Statue of Liberty or those big yellow taxis we see in the movies.
This year marks the centenary of the New York State Parks system, set up to offer access to open space and recreation, and to connect people to its most celebrated lands.
It encompasses more than 350,000 acres, while there are also 35,000 acres of vineyards and more than 2,000 waterfalls to be explored – yet even the Americans we meet tend to just associate the whole state with New York City.
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So, we head out to explore some of New York State’s most awe-inspiring open spaces which offer adventurous holidaymakers the vast riches of waterfalls, wine, wildlife and wings (of the chicken kind).
The leaves are just starting to turn to buttery yellow and warm orange on our autumn visit, a perfect time for hiking, biking and still warm enough for boat trips, river pursuits and paddleboarding during a week of glorious weather in mid-September.
We begin with the oldest of them all, Niagara Falls State Park (six hours’ drive from New York City), which stretches 400 acres, with close to 140 acres of that underwater, spilling a staggering 685,000 gallons of water over the falls each second, from four of the great lakes – Superior, Michigan, Huron and Erie.
Established in 1885, it became the cornerstone of the state park system, with its famous mighty American Falls, Bridal Veil Falls and Horseshoe Falls, which are viewable from almost every angle on well-trodden tourist paths on the Niagara River.
First-timers will no doubt board the well-known Maid of the Mist boat (adults $28.25/£21) which envelops you in clouds of water vapour from the falls, or embark on a white-knuckle jet boat ride, bumping its way through stage 5 rapids to the famous whirlpool landmark (Whirlpool Jet Boat Tours, adults $65.95/£50).
Others may opt for the jaw-dropping Cave of the Winds (adults $21/£16), a precarious viewing platform known as the ‘Hurricane Deck’ within feet of the crashing Bridal Veil Falls, where you really don’t want to drop your phone. Apparently the walkway and platform are rebuilt every year to keep it all safe.
Of course, there will be crowds, unless you splash the cash, taking a more private 12-minute helicopter tour for a stunning aerial view (Rainbow Air, $170/£128 per person).
Yet Grace and I find a quieter, simpler experience by waking early to a sunrise of pink skies, donning our running shoes and following the largely deserted State Park path alongside the swirling, rushing rapids, admiring the natural wonder from the verdant riverbank, before crossing a bridge to Goat Island where we reach Terrapin Point for a breath-taking view of the falls, minus the crowds.
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Twitchers (or birders, as the Americans call them) flock to this region to see cormorants, hawks, bald eagles and peregrine falcons among other species, while the summer brings with it swathes of wildflowers.
But there are great canyons, waterfalls and hiking opportunities awaiting us away from the tourist trail as we drive south east from Niagara to the Finger Lakes region, stretching from Lake Ontario to the Pennsylvania border, comprising 11 lakes created two million years ago as a series of glacial flows, all with their own charm, fringed by picturesque towns, vineyards, beautiful trails and an abundance of wildlife.
We detour for a quick look at Buffalo, the state’s second largest city, 35 minutes’ drive from Niagara, an artsy place and home to a myriad of paintings and creativity, both outdoor and indoor, from the AKG Art Museum (adults $18/£14), which houses works by Picasso, Monet, Jackson Pollock and Andy Warhol, to edgy street art and art deco architecture.
Prints of the city’s landmarks grace the walls of our dramatic, rather eerie historic hotel, The Richardson, which we learn used to be the local asylum.
Buffalo is also, famously, home of the original Buffalo wing, long recognised as a tasty fast food in the western world. Keeping our theme outdoors, we take a Buffalo wing bike tour with guide Marc Moscato (from $59/£44 per person), who hilariously plays ‘chicken wing songs’ en route from a speaker attached to his bike.
But we’re after a healthier lifestyle, so once out of the city, our first stop is Letchworth State Park, dubbed the ‘Grand Canyon of the East’ for its 17-mile gorge and dramatic cliffs as high as 600ft, cut into the central part of the state by the Genesee River which flows north to Lake Ontario.
Our guide Matt Nusstein introduces us to the three main waterfalls within the 14,350-acre preserve surrounded by lush forests. They are certainly a sight to behold, but in autumn the foliage is also spectacular – the maples with their burnt orange and aubergine hues, softened by the gentle yellows of birch leaves.
You might spot white-tailed deer, coyote or, very occasionally, black bear, as well as more than 200 species of bird including bald eagles and peregrine falcons which nest here.
Hikers can choose 66 miles of terrain, most of which are dirt tracks. Trails are also available for horseback riding, biking and cross-country skiing. Proper pathways and steps have been built to allow walkers easy access.
Visitors pay $10/£7.60 to park at the majority of the state parks, but if you visit more than one on the same day your original entry will still be valid so you won’t be charged again.
Arriving at Seneca Lake, the second longest Finger Lake at about 37 miles, we settle in at the quaint town of Watkins Glen in the south, where the State Park features eye-popping gorges more than 300 million years old, jutting layers of shale and sandstone forming the curved rock wall.
There are tourists on the trails which pass 19 waterfalls, but not too many, and the only bottleneck we find is holidaymakers taking selfies behind one of the cascades.
If you’re in the Finger Lakes, it’s worth pushing the boat out to stay in a lakeside property, not just for the view of the water but for the activities on and around it.
From the Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel (rooms from $299/£225) we follow the Seneca Lake Wine Trail, an association of wineries using grapes harvested within the area whose members are all local.
Seated in the tasting area overlooking 100 acres of vineyard at Lakewood Vineyards, we sample Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and several Rieslings (their speciality) served by friendly family members in a wine region we are told has been borne of great farmers and whose makers help each other out when times are hard.
There are cider orchards in the area too, making small batches which you won’t find anywhere else, along with more than 75 family-owned craft, farm, and microbreweries – so finding a beer won’t be a problem.
An hour from Seneca Lake, we head for The Lake House (rooms from $225/£170), a cosy retreat with a New England air, complete with firepits, barrel saunas, artisan décor and Adirondack chairs where you can sip a cocktail while watching the sun set on Canandaigua Lake.
But it is on the lake, during a stand-up paddleboard yoga session with Finger Lakes Yogascapes (from $60/£46 per person for a private session for two), a stone’s throw from the hotel, where Grace and I find true karma before any of the boats have started up and there isn’t a tourist in sight.
After a wobbly start on my part, instructor Kaitlyn Vittozzi (fingerlakesyogascapes.com) leads us out into a small, shallow bay where we are taken through gentle stretching, both sitting and standing, and encouraged to breathe in the amazing vista. This is where you’ll find true peace in New York State – as far from the city as you can imagine.
How to do it
King rooms at the DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Niagara Falls (hilton.com) start from $122/£92 per night room only.
Doubles at the The Richardson Hotel, Buffalo (therichardsonhotelbuffalo.com) start from $238/£179.
For more information on the destinations, go to fingerlakes.org; niagarafallsusa.com; visitbuffaloniagara.com; and parks.ny.gov.
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