How to spend a day in Crenshaw, LA’s modern hub of art and creativity

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Andrew Feinberg

White House Correspondent

A hip-hop-themed ice cream parlour. Some of the finest soul food in Los Angeles. And imminently, more free-to-view public art than you can shake a stick at. Crenshaw may not be on most tourists’ radar just yet, but for those willing to venture three miles west of Exposition Park, this on-the-up district boasts a strong cultural identity and plenty of thriving small businesses to visit. Improved public transport links are also helping to pin the neighbourhood to the map, with the Metro’s K line now serving the area, due to roll out to Los Angeles International airport in 2025.

When Destination Crenshaw is finally unveiled, a staggered launch occurring in stages throughout 2024, it will be crowned the largest Black public art project in the US. This open-air exhibit looks set to revitalise the historically underserved but culturally rich neighbourhoods of Crenshaw and adjoining Leimert Park, which for decades have been at the beating heart of LA’s Black community.

Now’s the time to strap on your walking shoes and hit the streets for culture and craft coffee at these local hotspots.

Destination Crenshaw stretches along Crenshaw Boulevard, the major artery running through the neighbourhood. Start your walking tour at Sankofa Park, where an elevated platform offers epic views of LA’s palm-fringed horizons.

The star of the show is a looming bronze sculpture of a contemporary African woman on horseback by the renowned artist Kehinde Wiley. Just steps away is Charles Dickson’s installation, a towering stack of shiny chrome cars celebrating Crenshaw’s lowrider culture. Strolling the 1.3-mile trail, past vibrant street art murals, sculptures and augmented reality exhibits, make time to stop off at the freshly landscaped pocket parks that dot the road, offering a leafy sanctuary in the urban jungle.

Seamlessly pairing Vanilla Ice with vanilla ice cream, this dinky hangout is owned by a local couple who once worked in the music industry. Their homemade organic ice creams and sorbets run the flavour gauntlet from classics such as vegan mint to the more experimental smoked olive oil. Alongside the scoop bar, there’s also a collection of rap memorabilia on display, including posters and clothing, making it the perfect pitstop for musos with a sweet tooth.

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This free-entry museum has a revolving rota of exhibitions from artists of colour, shown in collaboration with the esteemed California African American Museum. Situated on Degnan Boulevard, the gallery also hosts a lively programme of artist talks, lectures and film screenings, so it’s worth checking their website for events before arriving.

For over 25 years, this Crenshaw restaurant has been serving up some of the best soul food in the city, using recipes handed down from grandparents. Following a James Beard nomination, the restaurant’s large dining room and outdoor patios have recently been spruced up. But some things don’t change, thankfully, including the framed family photos lining the walls. Order the crispy fried chicken, best eaten with a side of creamy mac and cheese and a glistening heap of collard greens.

Sunday brunch at this upscale restaurant has become the stuff of local legend, so book ahead to discover why. Inside the mid-century modern-inspired dining room, plates of shrimp, grits and braised oxtail hash are served from an open-plan kitchen. Push the boat out by joining the Black Pot Supper Club at the weekend, an intimate dinner that celebrates African-American cuisine with an eight-course feast that highlights the origins of each dish. It’s the tastiest history lesson out there.

Earle’s may have started life as a humble roadside cart, but the family-owned eatery has since elevated New York-style hot dogs to gourmet standards. Its secret? A lengthy menu of topping choices that allow customers to create their ultimate dog. Jamaican patties and vegan chilli bowls also feature on the menu, washed down with ginger beer or honey punch. Having served Crenshaw for 30 years, Earle’s also gives back by donating meals to elderly residents in the community.

Crenshaw isn’t the place to come for a wild night on the tiles, as the bar scene is fairly non-existent. Instead, visit this residential area in the evening for a beverage served with a sit-down meal in a restaurant or in the daytime to relax in one of Crenshaw’s hidden gem coffee shops. Harun Coffee is one such establishment, a stylish hangout on Degnan Boulevard co-owned by Chace Johnson, the former manager of rapper A$AP Rocky. Alongside pour-overs using Ethiopian beans, there’s also a range of curated streetwear and artwork from LA creatives available to purchase.

Freelancers tap away on laptops at this airy coffee spot, featuring exposed brick walls and floor-to-ceiling windows. Alongside lassi smoothies and honey-infused lattes, there’s a food menu packed with health-conscious warm rice bowls and nourishing soups, including an aromatic coconut curry broth.

Once a month, this coffee shop also hosts popular live jazz concerts with a $10 (£7.60) entrance fee on the door. Those visiting on Sunday afternoons will also find the pounding beats of a weekly drum circle and an African marketplace just a short stroll away in Leimert Park.

Tucked behind Leimert Park Plaza, Degnan Boulevard is where to head for independently-owned businesses. Here you’ll find Sole Folks, an incubator store that spotlights designers from underserved communities. Stock up on positive affirmation colouring books, rare sneaker drops, varsity jackets and limited-edition trucker caps in this switched-on boutique.

This Black-owned shop has been the catalyst behind a flourishing skate scene taking root locally. Alongside skateboards and shoes from heritage brands, including Converse and Dr Martens, don’t miss the store’s own coveted range of logo beanie hats and hoodies. The owners also arrange meet-ups with a big emphasis on bridging generational gaps, so all ages are welcome to pick up a board and try some tricks.

Sika Dwimfo, an 83-year-old jeweller and business owner, has been a beloved mainstay of the neighbourhood for over 30 years. His Sika emporium, situated on Degnan Boulevard, is a treasure trove of beaded necklaces, African masks and woven Ghanaian baskets. But it’s the store’s dapper owner, as much as the goods on sale, that attracts a stream of faithful customers to this unique LA institution.

Hotels in Crenshaw remain slim pickings, but the boutique Alsace Hotel is well worth travelling a couple of blocks into the artsy neighbouring West Adams district for. Inside the hotel’s 48 rooms, some with patio gardens or suntrap balconies, the décor has a stylish Scandinavian bend. A hidden courtyard swimming pool provides a welcoming oasis for guests on balmy summer days.

Airlines, including British Airways, Virgin Atlantic, United and Norse, all fly non-stop between London and LAX with a flight time of around 11 hours.

Read more: The 12 best things to do in Los Angeles