Caravan Agafay hotel review: This glam new desert camp is just a short drive from Marrakech
This cluster of tented suites in Morocco’s rock desert is a dream spot to laze, stargaze, do yoga and immerse yourself in Moroccan traditions, says Lucy Thackray
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Your support makes all the difference.In a nutshell: This new camp from boutique hotel group Habitas nails the balance between hippie-rustic and effortlessly glamorous, giving Marrakech lovers a new option for a few nights outside the city centre.
The neighbourhood
Scattered in the dunes of the Agafay “rock desert” just outside of Marrakech, this collection of 20 canvas-topped suites is a remote-feeling, sunkissed nomad’s camp a 45-minute drive from Menara Airport. All around is a lunar-like landscape of rocky curves and dry scrub, with the odd silhouette of a roaming camel visible in the distance, and wild birds flitting down for a splash in the pool. It’s pin-drop quiet by day, but at night the house restaurant puts on sultry, jazzy tunes as the lanterns and flaming torches light up its paths and tented dining areas. It’s a relatively grown-up affair, too, with no children under 12 allowed to stay.
The vibe
Hippie-chic, with all the delightfully earthy textures you’ll find in Marrakech’s souks – unvarnished earthenware pots, hand-woven rugs, artisan leather stools – used to furnish a stylish outdoor setting. However, beneath the immediate romantic Bedouin appearance, there are layers of luxury: high thread-count sheets on proper mattresses (hot water bottles are slipped under duvets for you on cooler nights), craft cocktails at the sunset-view bar and a tiny spa with a duo of treatment rooms.
Really, Caravan Agafay is all about the experience – you can head out on driving tours to visit Amazigh communities (previously known as Berber, a coloniser’s term derived from the same word as “barbarian”) or learn to make bread in the local style. From the moment you arrive to an atmospheric welcome “ceremony”, it’s clear the team is keen to immerse guests in Moroccan and Amazigh culture, history and flavours. Sustainability points for solar panels powering all rooms – the camp eventually intends to go fully solar – eggs, milk, vegetables and herbs from the onsite farm, no single-use plastic and locally sourced materials.
Bed and bath
You’ll stay in one of 40 tented suites, each home to a comfy double bed, faux-sheepskin rugs, low-slung midcentury seats and elegant lamps. Bathrooms have decent showers (though hot water, powered by solar panels, can be patchy), toilets and sinks, and there’s a small seating area outside each suite’s door, facing the direction where sunsets glow peach over the rugged landscape. In a fairly compact site, it’s just a five-minute walk from these to two separate pool areas, a restaurant and sheltered library-lounge area, though you may want to bring a torch or illuminated smartphone for the walk.
Though pretty luxe as tents go, rooms come stocked with a minimalist coat rack, safe and hanging area for clothes, and with only shampoo and shower gel on hand guests may want to stock up on the conditioner before arrival. We liked the traditional straw hats available for guests to use in the suites and by the pool.
Food and drink
This is one of the highlights of a stay here: the name of the game is luxurious, nourishing and healthy. Fresh, smoky hummus and avocado dips are served with freshly slapped-about flatbreads and crudites; a tagine of the day might include beef, chicken or fish; Instagram-pretty salads are generously packed with peach slices, goat’s cheese and tapenade; and even your cocktail aperitif comes with ample olives, crisps and nuts. Breakfasts are worthy of any LA yoga nut with fresh smoothies, yoghurt, fruit bowls and unusual takes on egg dishes. Moroccan chef Youssef Erraji Chahid crafts interesting desserts and sharing starters, keen to highlight local produce and techniques along the way. Watch out for cooking presentations at the traditional outdoor kitchen beside Olivar restaurant.
Public areas
Two separate plunge pools have different vibes of their own: the one beside the cocktail bar is where the action happens, with guests sipping espresso on striped sofas from mid-morning, tunes playing at the bar and many taking sunset selfies come golden hour. The second pool is quieter, placed up high near the yoga pavilion and hotel farm, and is generally the place to go for a sleepier atmosphere enjoyed with a good book. (As these are unheated, they get pretty icy in cooler months – great for a bit of impromptu Wim Hof action post-yoga).
The green-tiled bar, on a high slope, is perfectly placed to frame the sunset, while Olivar restaurant is a pretty terrace lit by wicker lanterns swaying in the night breeze. A community feel inspired by Amazigh culture in the nearby Atlas mountains is encouraged, but not enforced: you may meet fellow inquisitive travellers around the fire pit; at a group stargazing session with the resident astronomer; at yoga, scheduled several mornings a week; or on excursions.
Nuts and bolts
Room count: 40
Freebies: Bottled, filtered water.
Wifi: Free.
Extra charges: You can pay extra to organise an airport transfer; recommended, as the camp could be hard to direct taxi drivers to.
Disability access: Though on rugged terrain, everything is at ground level and assistance is available for guests who need it.
Pet policy: Pets are not allowed.
Bottom line
Best thing: The silence of the desert by day – and authentic excursions into the Atlas Mountains.
Worst thing: There are a few teething issues as staff work out the solar-powered bathrooms, generators and spa treatments. But who doesn’t love a blackout?!
Perfect for: Yoga fans, the culture curious, and those needing a restorative break in the sun.
Not right for: Young families or anyone demanding high-luxury everything.
Instagram from: The jade-tiled, al fresco cocktail bar at sunset.
Room rate: Doubles from £285, B&B, including daily activities onsite.
ourhabitas.com
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