Could Syria return as a tourism destination? What to consider after years of devastation under Assad

After the Syrian dictator, Bashar al-Assad, was toppled and fled to Moscow, Western journalists – including Bel Trew of The Independent – have been uncovering the full horror of a civil war that cost hundreds of thousands of lives. The Assad regime prosecuted the war on its own citizens with chemical weapons, and tortured opponents with extreme cruelty.

As Assad and his Russian allies waged war on Syrian citizens, many parts of the country were devastated by bombing and shelling.

The rebel group that has taken over Syria, Hayat Tahrir al-Sham (HTS), remains a proscribed terrorist organisation in the UK. In 2017 the British government said HTS was to be treated as simply another name for al Qaida – the terrorist group once led by Osama bin Laden and responsible for the 9/11 attacks on America.

Yet a British tour operator is planning to resume holidays in Syria as early as April – even though the Foreign Office warns against all travel to Syria, “due to the ongoing conflict and unpredictable security conditions”.

Dylan Harris, founder of the extreme adventure company Lupine Travel, told the You Should Have Been There travel podcast: “As soon as it becomes apparent that things are stable, I could run trips immediately.

“If things run smoothly with the government transition, we’d look to resume tours in April – just after the end of Ramadan.”

But would such a trip be both irresponsible and insensitive at a time when Syrians are coming to terms with the extent of the tragedy that has visited their country? These are the key questions and answers.

Sean Kennedy, an entrepreneur, travelled to Syria in May 2009. He told The Independent: “We spent 10 unforgettable days traveling on an independent round trip through Syria, visiting Damascus, Homs, Aleppo, and Palmyra. Each destination left its own unique impression, and the journey was filled with remarkable sights and extraordinary hospitality.

“In Damascus, our hotel was near the 3rd-century Roman Gate, the Bab Sharqi (East Gate), and just a short distance from the magnificent Umayyad Mosque, one of the holiest sites in Islam. The mosque is said to house the head of John the Baptist, and the street itself is famously associated with Saul, later known as St. Paul, who converted ‘on the road to Damascus’.

“The city struck us as remarkably religiously tolerant, with places of worship for Jews, multiple branches of Christianity—including Syrian, Armenian, and Lebanese churches—alongside Catholic and Anglican congregations. It seemed to be a harmonious mosaic of faiths, practicing openly and without oppression.”

“Aleppo was an incredible experience: a bustling, chaotic modern city wrapped around an ancient old town dating back 2,600 years. This city has survived the likes of the Hittites, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, and now the Assads. Its history is palpable in every corner, blending seamlessly with its vibrant present.

“From Aleppo, we travelled to the astonishing classical site of Palmyra, arriving late in the afternoon and heading straight to its legendary monuments. The sight was awe-inspiring, made even more magical by the presence of local families dining alfresco, using the 2,500-year-old columns as their tables and chairs.

“But above all the history, architecture, and beauty of Syria, what left the most lasting impression was the people. They were unfailingly friendly, hospitable and curious, and their warmth added something truly special to our journey.”

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“If you are a British national in Syria, leave the country by any practical means” – that is the blunt warning from the UK Foreign Office. The latest travel advice says: “The situation in Syria remains volatile and dangerous after over a decade of conflict and insecurity.

“There is a humanitarian crisis in Syria. Public infrastructure and services have been seriously affected by the conflict including lack of water, sanitation and health services. Electricity, internet and cellular services are intermittent in many parts of the country.

“Food supplies are extremely limited and what’s available is often prohibitively expensive. It is often difficult to get or pay for basic goods and services, including food and fuel.

“Fighting and violence continues and is highly unpredictable. It includes artillery and airstrikes.

“Terrorist groups operating in Syria routinely use kidnapping as a tactic. This includes British nationals who are seen as legitimate targets, including tourists, humanitarian aid workers, journalists and business travellers. If you are kidnapped, the reason for your presence is unlikely to protect you or secure your safe release.”

Other Western governments have similar advice. Australia tells citizens: “Do not travel to Syria due to the extremely dangerous security situation and the threat of armed conflict, air strikes, terrorism and kidnapping.”

Yes. Travelling to a destination against Foreign Office advice invalidates standard travel insurance policies. That is one reason why it is normal practice for tour operators (holiday companies) not to offer trips to places against FCDO advice – and to bring Brits home in a hurry if the Foreign Office suddenly adds a location to the no-go list.

But specialist insurers are prepared to offer cover to destinations on the FCDO no-go list. During the Covid pandemic, such insurance policies became almost mainstream – because of bizarre Foreign Office advice that categorised Portugal as being as risky as parts of Kabul.

Syria, though, is particularly tricky due to international sanctions. The reputable company Battleface says: “We are unable to provide products and services for trips to Syrian Arab Republic.” But another insurer, High Risk Voyager, quotes £150 for a 10-day visit to Syria for a 40-year-old in good health.

Western airlines have given Syria a wide berth for many years – one reason for flights between the UK, the Gulf and south Asia taking longer routes than usual.

Damascus airport, in theory, handles a dozen or more departures and arrivals each day on Syrian Air (Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Doha) and Cham Wings (whose main link of interest to visitors is to and from Cairo). But at present, Damascus airport is closed.

The main approach is via Beirut, which is served by two flights a day from London Heathrow on Middle East Airlines. The distance from the Lebanese capital to the Syrian capital is only 60 miles, but the number of checkpoints can make it a long and arduous journey by taxi or bus.

Bel Trew described her experience crossing the border early in December in The Independent.

An alternative route is from Amman to Damascus – a distance of 120 miles.

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Only make the risky journey to and across the frontier if you are confident you have all the paperwork in order – which will mean going through a reputable company. Dylan Harris’s firm, Lupine Travel of Wigan, has sent several groups safely to Syria this year and has reliable partners on the ground.

Mr Harris said: “At the moment the border with Lebanon is completely open on the Syrian side. Once you’ve completed border formalities on the Lebanese side, it’s possible to just walk right in to Syria without any checks or stamps. This is how most journalists are getting in at the moment.

“However, we won’t be running tours there until they have fixed this and there’s a fully functioning border checkpoint up and running again so that we can ensure we are all in there legally.

“I would imagine this will be in place by the new year, so then it’s just a case of waiting for tourism visas to resume.

Travelling around is high risk, says the Foreign Office: “Road travel is very dangerous in many parts of the country due to fighting, the fragile security situation and unexploded weapons. Driving standards and traffic systems are poor, and the accident rate is high.

“Road networks may be blocked without warning. There are security force checkpoints on major road routes.”

Many people think so. In response to The Independent’s article about Lupine Travel opening up Syria again, the guidebook writer Pat Yale said: “Even poor exiled Syrians are not sure that they dare to go back yet. And people are thinking about holidays?”

Stephen Leah wrote in response to The Independent story: “Would love to tour Syria! But I think I will wait a little – to put it mildly.”

Frank Kelly said: “Who knows what things will be like in April? Let people make their own decisions, but don’t expect any help if things go wrong and the Foreign Office advice is not to travel.”

And Andy Clark wrote: “It’s a brilliant country with the friendliest people we’ve ever encountered, but surely it’s too soon..?

But tour operator Dylan Harris says: “It would just be great to be able to get tourism going over there again because they’ve had a very terrible time of it, from the civil war to Covid to the earthquake in Aleppo last year.”

And the noted writer on the Middle East, Matthew Teller, adds: “Now, at last, the Syrian people have freed themselves from the dictator’s grip. They need our support. Their magnificent country offers a depth in culture and history that merits reappraisal at first hand.”