Travel question: How can I make the most of my holiday in Georgia?

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Simon Calder
Tuesday 18 June 2019 16:48 EDT
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The capital Tbilisi is lovely – but head to quieter parts to be amazed
The capital Tbilisi is lovely – but head to quieter parts to be amazed (Getty/iStock)

Q I am travelling to Georgia for the first time, flying in from Luton to Kutaisi and out from Tbilisi to Gatwick. While most of the time will be spent hiking in the mountains, what would you recommend if we have a few days to spare?

Tony J

A All of the former Soviet republics are fascinating to visit, but Georgia stands out for its friendly people, dramatic landscapes and superb cuisine.

I was there last month and am already planning my next expedition.

Starting in Kutaisi – the low-cost gateway from Luton on Wizz Air – there is much to enjoy. It is a big, busy city with plenty of cheerful cafes and an interesting market. The main sight is Bagrati Cathedral, but this 11th-century church has been heavily over-restored. For something more atmospheric, take a taxi (negotiate a price in advance) to the nearby Gelati Monastery – one of Georgia’s several Unesco World Heritage Sites, with outstanding murals and mosaics. The setting is lovely, too.

I imagine your general trajectory will be north from here into the rugged, towering mountains, but I hope I can persuade you to take a southerly detour: over the hills to the small city of Akhaltsikhe. This is the starting point for an adventure to the astonishing cave-monastery of Vardzia – hewn from a cliff face in the ultimate act of devotion, and today another Unesco World Heritage site.

From here you could head straight for Tbilisi. But another fascinating diversion is to the small city of Gori. It is the home town of Josef Stalin. Despite his tyrannical rule of the USSR, he is still evidently something of a local hero.

Make time for at least two full days in Tbilisi. Although the capital is not stuffed full of cultural sights, it comprises a fascinating mix of ancient and modern architecture – as well as a spectacular riverside setting and the best restaurants in the former Soviet Union.

If you have any time left, make the short journey north from Tbilisi to Mtskheta, a quietly beautiful historic town centred on a religious complex at the confluence of two rivers.

Every day our travel correspondent Simon Calder tackles a reader’s question. Just email yours to s@hols.tv or tweet @simoncalder

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