Vesterbro: 10 things to do in Copenhagen’s fashionable meat packing district

Now’s the time to check out this neighbourhood in transition from down and dirty to upmarket quirky

Liz Hoggard
Thursday 01 June 2017 10:38 EDT
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Vesterbro is Copenhagen’s coolest district
Vesterbro is Copenhagen’s coolest district (iStock)

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Located just behind Tivoli Gardens, the once seedy Vesterbro area, famous for its red light district, is now the coolest part of Copenhagen. In the streets radiating down from Copenhagen’s central railway station, you’ll find new bars and restaurants, independent hotels, organic food shops and vintage outlets.

The area has become a creative hotspot, inspired by the likes of New York’s famous Meat Packing District, as artists, designers, photographers and filmmakers move in. It’s always fascinating to visit a neighbourhood in transition – think Brooklyn or Berlin’s Kreuzberg 10 years ago – before the tourists arrive en masse. And true to Vesterbro’s diversity and independent spirit, there are many different ways to explore.

Go for an urban run

Copenhagen will always be the city of the bicycle, but the newest craze is urban running. And Vesterbro’s kilometre-long Istedgate, one of the hippest shopping streets, is a fascinating route. Running Copenhagen (runningcopenhagen.com) offers a running sightseeing tour of Vesterbro with a local guide.

Running Copenhagen offers sight-seeing running tours
Running Copenhagen offers sight-seeing running tours (RunningCopenhagen)

Try a breakfast pizza

After all that exercise, you deserve carbs. At Neighbourhood (neighbourhood.dk), an organic pizza and cocktail bar on Istedgade, they serve up breakfast with a difference. Try a pizza with eggs, potatoes, fried pancetta, red onions, parmesan and smoked cheese.

Turn coffee into an art form

Danes take their coffee extremely seriously. Istedgade is full of independent cafes-cum-galleries. Try breakfast bar Kaffee (kaffeistedgade.dk) or Petrol (@petrolkaffeoggear), a cosy pit stop with retro decor and old slot machines. Prefer green tea? Head for Byoh (byoh.dk) on adjoining Helgolandsgade, where you’ll find Denmark’s first matcha bar.

Indulge in all things green at Byoh
Indulge in all things green at Byoh (Byoh)

Lunch in the Meatpacking District

For over 100 years, Vesterbro’s Meatpacking District (dubbed White Meat City) was a rough industrial space. But today the white concrete buildings from the 1930s – which once housed the huge meat halls – are considered a masterpiece of functionalist architecture. The old Bosch warehouse is now the 200-seater Bio Mio Organic Bistro (bobbistro.dk), Denmark’s largest organic restaurant. Meanwhile, Italian restaurant Mother (mother.dk) offers hearty soul food cooked in a wood-fired oven. And make sure you sample the craft beer at hip brewpub War Pigs (warpigs.dk).

Get an art fix

Located in Tap E, a former bottling plant just off the Meatpacking District, the Fotografisk Center (fotografiskcenter.dk) is an elegant, hangar-like space which focuses on Nordic contemporary photography. Or visit the V1 Gallery (v1gallery.com), the first gallery in Scandinavia to showcase the work of street artists such as Banksy and Eine.

V1 Gallery serves up modern art
V1 Gallery serves up modern art (V1 Gallery)

Become a Scandi minimalist

Istedgade is full of achingly desirable homeware stores. You’ll find modern Danish lighting, furniture and kitchenware at Maur (maur.dk) and DANSK Made for Rooms (danskshop.com), while stylists love concept shop A Door (@adooristedgade), which offers cult skincare, ceramics, jewellery, magazines, plants and, yes, coffee.

Watch a chocolatier at work

In the “live kitchen” of his Vesterbo store on Godsbanegade (ankerchokolade.dk), Mikkel Anker (who has worked in Michelin-star kitchens) creates mouthwatering hand-made chocolates from Fairtrade cacao and seasonal ingredients, including tomatoes, strawberries, mangos and peanut butter. Top up with coffee and a glass of champagne.

A visit to Anker Chokolade is a must
A visit to Anker Chokolade is a must (Anker Chokolade)

Jazz it up

Copenhagen is Europe’s jazz capital from 7 to 16 July. Artists performing include Dee Dee Bridgewater, Anoushka Shankar and Herbie Hancock (jazz.dk).

Sip a Nordic cocktail

The stylish Lidkoeb cocktail bar (lidkoeb.dk) just off Vesterbrogade is arranged over three floors of a former 18th-century apothecary. The decor includes pendant lamps, sheepskin-draped wooden banquettes and classic film posters (oh, and the most handsome bartender in the world…).

Visit Lidkoeb for ultra trendy cocktails
Visit Lidkoeb for ultra trendy cocktails (Lidkoeb)

Eat your greens

If you’re craving fresh air, walk up the Frederiksberg Alle to Copenhagen’s magical Royal Danish Horticultural Garden Society (kobenhavnergron.dk). Housed in a historic building, the garden restaurant Mielcke & Hurtikarl (mhcph.com) has an 18-course tasting menu made from flowers and herbs; Noma chef Rene Redzepi is a fan.

Travel essentials

Getting there

Norwegian (norwegian.com) operates five flights per day between London Gatwick and Copenhagen from £29.50 each way.

Staying there

Boutique hotel The Absalon (absalon-hotel.dk), located in the heart of Vesterbro, offers complimentary bikes to guests and a package which allows late departure at no extra cost. Doubles from £130, B&B.

More information

visitcopenhagen.com/copenhagen/hipster-vesterbro

gastromand.dk/guide-til-vesterbro

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