Zurich guide: Where to eat, drink, shop and stay in Switzerland’s biggest city
Forget finance – there’s far more to this Swiss metropolis
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Your support makes all the difference.Regularly voted as one of the most liveable places in the world, Zurich is often perceived as a bankers’ city. True, it’s Switzerland’s largest and wealthiest metropolis but, with an enviable location between a turquoise lake and the nearby Alps, its citizens are spoilt for choice for leisure activities after office hours.
From world-class museums to the small village feel in the old town, Zurich blends old-school charm with post-industrial edge – and, of course, there’s always chocolate and cheese to fall in love with...
What to do
Hop on a boat
The almost banana-shaped Lake Zurich is a favourite place for excursions.
Take a boat ride for some of the best views of the city and nearby Alps; mingle with inline skaters, bathers, jewellery sellers and street artists along the promenade; or enjoy the sunset aboard a historic paddle steamer.
Conquer the Uetliberg
You can reach the top (869m) of Zurich’s very own mountain, the “Uezgi”, on foot or by train (fare included in the Zurich Card). Meander along the well-marked routes, many of which turn into sledging runs in winter, or simply enjoy the panoramic views.
Hit the museums
The Museum for Modern Art, the Kunsthaus, features important works by Munch, Picasso and Warhol, as well as earlier artists like Manet and Van Gogh. Entry CHF23 (£18).
Meanwhile, drawing younger crowds with its collections of Swiss design icons and temporary exhibitions on the themes of design, visual communication and architecture is the Museum für Gestaltung. Entry CHF10 (£8).
Take the plunge
Life in Zurich revolves around water. Join the locals as they swim in the Limmat river or visit one of the public pools. It’s ladies only at the art noveau Frauenbad am Stadthausquai, while men meet at the Freibad am Schanzengraben. Lake-side Seebad Enge is known for its views of the snow-capped Alps, and visitors can dig their toes in the sand of the 250m-long beach at Strandbad Mythenquai.
Get lost
Wander aimlessly through the Niederdorf or Dörfli (“little village”), a pedestrian-only zone in the old town, or shop in small boutiques, antiquarian bookshops, confectioneries and craft studios hidden down winding alleyways. At night the district buzzes with bars and street artists.
Where to stay
Only a five-minute walk from attractions like Fraumünster, the Kunsthaus and Lake Zurich, the old town Hostel Otter draws young, creative types with its convenient location and large, colourful rooms. The hostel offers seven dorms and eight private rooms, the latter with a breakfast buffet at the cafe bar. Dorms from CHF41 (£33).
Opened in August 2017, Motel One Zürich is a 394-room city centre property with unusual design themes inspired by chocolate – there’s even a giant golden chocolate wrapper on the ceiling. Doubles from CHF189 (£150), room only.
Boutique Hotel Marktgasse is charming with 39 individually furnished rooms, two restaurants and a bar right in the heart of the historic old town. The 15th century building channels traditional design, with stucco, wall panelling and tiled stoves reflecting a bygone era. Doubles from CHF275 (£219), room only.
Located at the foot of the Uetliberg mountain, the Atlantis by Giardino is a five-star urban retreat with Mediterranean-style hospitality. The rooms are generously sized, and extras include an alcohol-free minibar, wifi and a complimentary shuttle service. Doubles from CHF452 (£359), B&B.
Where to eat
Bircher Muesli was invented in Zurich in 1900, though its creator, Max Bircher-Benner, was laughed at when he published his recipe for a healthy diet – raw vegetables and fresh fruit were considered to be worthless side dishes at the time. The popular breakfast choice can be ordered in almost every cafe, and arguably the best version is served at John Baker.
The legendary Kronenhalle has been delighting guests since 1924. Initially a meeting place for artists, it has genuine works by Chagall, Picasso, and Miró on the walls. The restaurant offers French-inspired dishes and is famous for its zürcher geschnetzeltes (sliced veal in gravy).
For kaffee and kuchen, drop into stylish Conditorei Schober. Cakes from Gugelhupf to Apfelstrudel, handmade pralines, pastries and delicacies are all sold over the counter in the original candy shop from the mid-19th century. Don’t miss the Schoggi Mélange: drinking chocolate topped with cream.
Built in 1487 as an arsenal storehouse, the Zeughauskeller is a local institution with a menu in 11 languages. The rustic restaurant, clad with oak beams and historic artefacts, serves hearty, traditional cuisine. Try the Bürgermeister Schwert – veal paillards wrapped around a sword blade, accompanied by foaming ale.
Where to drink in Zurich
Cocktail aficionados, wine lovers and craft beer fans should head to Baltho Bar, named after St Balthazar, the patron saint of travellers. Mixologists serve up a range of classic cocktails as well as some of their own creations.
Gin-based drinks and cocktails can be imbibed in style while enjoying sweeping views of Zurich at Clouds bar. Boasting industrial charm, the city’s highest bar is located on the 36th floor of Prime Tower, Switzerland’s second-tallest building.
A great place for sipping absinthe-spiked drinks is the history-laden Cabaret Voltaire, where Dadaism was founded in 1916. An easygoing meeting place during the day, it becomes bustling afterdark, with avant-garde exhibits and live jazz.
Located in the same tower as the Urania observatory, the Jules Verne Bar has one of the most spectacular views over Lake Zurich. Decked out in homage to Verne’s vision of the future (with nods aplenty to 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea and 80 Days Around the World), the 11th-floor bar has a range of cocktails and first-class wines.
Where to shop
Steeped in tradition, department store Globus was founded more than a century ago and still forms an integral part of Zurich’s shopping mile. Between Bahnhofstrasse and Löwenplatz, the street focuses on fashion, beauty, home living and indulgence. Drop into the delicatessen section for Swiss delights like Tirggel cookies or Turicum gin.
Founded in 1930, Schweizer Heimatwerk is synonymous with Swiss handicraft of the highest quality and functionality, as well as excellent design. There are eight shops nationwide in which you can find both Helvetian tradition and current trends, covering everything from cow bells to glass bowls and jewellery.
A shoppers’ paradise has been created under the 36 arches of the old railway viaduct built in 1894. Stretched over more than 500m are food shops, studio galleries and sports and fashion boutiques. However, the centrepiece has to be the Markthalle, where farmers, bakers and butchers from around Zurich offer their fresh and often organic produce six days a week.
Architectural highlight
The five-part stained-glass window series created by Marc Chagall for the Fraumünster Church (entry CHF5/£3.80).
Nuts and bolts
What currency do I need?
Swiss Francs.
What language do they speak?
Swiss German.
Should I tip?
Even though a service charge is added onto your bill, it’s common to reward friendly service with an extra tip.
What’s the time difference?
Zurich is one hour ahead of the UK.
What’s the flight time from the UK?
One hour and 40 minutes.
Public transport
The Zurich Card offers unlimited travel by tram, bus, train, boat and cableway over a period of 24 or 72 hours; CHF27 (£21) or CHF53 (£42).
Best view
Lindenhof Square provides an unobstructed view of the Old Town, with Grossmünster Church, City Hall and the Limmat river below.
Insider tip
Don’t buy any bottled water. All over the city drinking water flows out of 1,200 fountains, some of which are centuries old, and is free of charge for everyone.
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