Why you should swap Mykonos for Paros for a chic Greek break

Poolside at the brand new Andronis Minois hotel, which sits on a hill like a tiny, white-washed Cycladic village covered in bougainvillea, the vibe is very stealth wealth.

New Yorkers with yoga bodies and Eres bikinis lie in canopied cabanas while waiters in white linen shirts and trainers serve them tiny bowls of sliced fruit and shots of homemade peach tea. It could be a scene from a chic hotel on Mykonos – the most wildly expensive island in Greece – except it’s not. It’s in Paros, the island that Mykonos used to be before it was bedazzled by the superyacht set.

At the Andronis restaurant Olvo, the Michelin-starred head chef Anastasios Tsantilas serves up a sophisticated take on Greek flavours (the homemade tagliolini with lemon confit and smoked eel is sensational), while the Aegean laps at the rocks beneath you. But unlike blingtastic Mykonos, the look here is modern Med, with a stylish Morocco-meets-Amalfi look. No wonder understatedly cool Manhattanites seem to have decamped here.

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That’s the thing about Paros, despite it being the third largest island in the Cyclades, it has managed to retain its original charm. There are pockets of five-star sophistication, such as the Andronis Minois popping up, but the rest of the island is an arid, thyme-covered wilderness with a smattering of working, whitewashed hill villages and fun harbour towns with tavernas serving all the Greek greatest hits.

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However, the star attraction is, of course, the beaches. With 120 miles of coastline, you can take your pick from a beach bar sunlounger in a sheltered sandy cove to wide wind-blown beaches for watersports, dinky harbours and diving off rocks from rugged peninsulas.

While nearby Mykonos and Santorini are now notoriously expensive (you’ll struggle to find a main course on the islands for less than €45 – approximately £38) on Paros, you can still have a holiday with a high/low mix.

Spend a few days of crazy fun in an apartment at Naoussa, the island’s chic party town, then head to a five-star resort for a few days of cosseted high-end relaxation.

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After spending nine days on Paros, swimming in the translucent Aegean, eating some of the best food I have ever had in Greece and bombing around almost empty roads (it was shoulder season), the only question mark I had was why there were so few Brits on the island.

From the accents around us, it was clear Paros has become the new go-to island for savvy Americans, Australians and the ever-discerning French. About time we redressed that – here’s our guide on how to muscle in.

Paros is not big (13 miles from tip to tip), but it makes sense to base yourself in one or two parts of the island depending on what type of holiday you are after.

This is the main town and is a good base for everyone who comes in by ferry and only plans to spend a few nights on the island. It’s full of fun restaurants, shops and cafes.

Best for stylish nightlife. Naoussa is now one of my favourite all-time towns in Greece – a super-fun concentration of the best harbourside restaurants, bars and boutiques around an impossibly pretty, whitewashed harbour.

Best for a family holiday with a long, quiet, sandy beach lined with gelato shops, mini-markets festooned with inflatables and low-key tavernas.

Absolutely not to be missed, even if you take the ferry across for an afternoon. A bijou version of Paros with beautiful beaches and an ultra-stylish main town. All are walkable from the ferry that takes just seven minutes from Pounda port in Paros and costs £2.40 for a return passenger ticket.

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The best-known, wide, sandy beach on the north of the island and the hub for all watersports. Inexpensive but stylish beach bars with sun loungers for hire (from €20 – approximately £18 – for a pair for the day). But check the weather first as it can get windy.

A pretty, sandy bay in the south protected from the winds on the island’s south side, with bars and sun loungers for hire (€45/£38 for a pair). But it can get overcrowded in peak season.

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This pretty, sheltered, sandy cove marooned on a peninsula in the far northwest of Paros has, arguably, the best beach club on the island. The food offered is decent; wraps, burgers and salads, but it’s the new sunloungers with proper mattresses that are the real drawcard (ranging between €35 to €70/£30 to £60 for a pair with an umbrella for the day). Calm, shallow water.

My personal favourites, but you’ll need a car to get to these hidden gems in the north near Naoussa. Pretty, quiet sandy coves with paddle boards and kayaks for hire, a couple of tavernas on the back roads and the very chilled Santa Maria Beach Bar with bean bags.

For something completely different, this part rocky, part sandy cove on the east of the island has natural, mineral-rich clay that you can scrape off the rocks, mix with seawater and rub over your body.

The food scene on the island is outstanding – with everything from a delicious spanakopita for €3 (£2.50) from a local bakery, to a Michelin-starred blowout and an incredible array of reasonably-priced tavernas on the beach,

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A traditional taverna, surrounded by wooden fishing boats on the buzzy harbour at Naousa. Book ahead as it gets packed. We had sublime grilled sea bass, spinach and feta balls, a vat of taramasalata and a bottle of wine for around £30 a head.

Another trad taverna specialising in seafood in a beautiful spot overlooking the sea in Aliki. Similar prices and offers to Tsachpinis.

An absolute gem of a taverna for couples, hidden away on the far reaches of Aliki. Candlelit tables beneath trees on the pebbly beach. Specialises in the fresh catch of the day (scorpion fish with pasta was delicious) and a very good local wine list. Reasonable prices.

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Just outside Naoussa, but so worth the trek for the sunset views and the amazing food. Very chic, in-the-know spot for Greek classics with a modern twist. Dakos salad sweet tomatoes, capers and Cretan cheese, and the seafood linguini was heavenly. Main courses start from £22.

See just how far modern Greek cuisine has come with this superb restaurant overlooking a rocky peninsula near Parikia. Highlights were the utterly delicious tagliolini with eel and the beef picanha. From £38 for a main course.

Watch the sun go down with a fishbowl of a cocktail at this beautiful harbourside bar in Naoussa.

A top spot for sundowners and snacks at this quiet little beach with a very cool beach bar near Parikia.

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Travelling on a budget? You can’t go wrong with an apartment in Naoussa, even if it’s just for a few nights of partying, eating and shopping. Take your pick of bijou apartments within walking distance of the Old Town starting from just £40 a night.

The Andronis Minois is a stylish, five-star boutique hotel with 44 suites, a spa with Thalassa treatments, open-air gym, swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Very much suited to couples in need of some high-end cossetting from super-friendly staff and ridiculously delicious food. Prices start from £315 for two with breakfast included.

Saint George Hotel, a big, buzzy hotel with a pool and beach bar perfect for families, overlooking Golden Beach. Prices from £110 per night for a double room including breakfast.

Fly to Athens and several ferry and hydrofoil companies operate from Piraeus Port in Athens to Paros and take between three to four and a half hours to cross (from £45 one-way). Or fly to Mykonos direct and catch a ferry or hydrofoil, which takes between 35 minutes to two hours, and costs between €25 (£21) and €74 (£62) one-way.

Fly to Athens and take a connecting flight to Paros. Several local airlines fly regularly to Paros from £42 one-way.

Paros is a long, thin island, 21km (13 miles) long from tip to tip. You could get around by local bus and taxi, but you’ll do a lot of waiting around and miss out on more remote parts. The best option is to hire a car.

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