Cognac: Drink it in

For a French escape, the area surrounding the town which the famous brandy takes its name from takes some beating, with a beautiful blend of undulating countryside, picturesque towns, and world-class food and wine – all within easy reach of the UK with direct flights to the nearby Poitiers, La Rochelle and Bordeaux.

Base camp

At the centre of the region is Cognac itself, celebrating its 1000^th anniversary this year with falconry displays, jousting tournaments and other medieval-style entertainment. Remnants of the past abound: the 15^th century Porte Saint-Jacques, the cobbled streets of the old town, and the remains of medieval ramparts, now incorporated into MACO, a contemporary museum tracing the history of the world’s most famous spirit. Alongside is the Charente river, which flows into the Atlantic some 50 miles away. These days, the flat-bottomed boats that once transported barrels of eau-de-vie now take visitors on short cruises.

Out and about

Outside Cognac there is much to enjoy: riverside walks and woodland cycle tracks, thermal baths in Jonzac, a trip to the market in Jarnac followed by a cookery course at the Restaurant du Château. And just in front of the restaurant is the headquarters of one of the region’s best-known cognac producers, Courvoisier, which offers visitors a selection of tours.

One of the best ways to explore the region is from the water. The Charente river, navigable from Angouleme as far as Rochefort, close to the coast, is punctuated by locks which slow the pace of life. There are motor boats to rent, but if you prefer someone else to navigate, take one of the short cruises on offer from Saintes and Jarnac.

Enter into the spirit

But the region’s main attraction is cognac. Producers large and small are happy to welcome visitors, offering them an insight into the production process and a taste of the finished product. Every tour is different. Otard is housed in a 15^th-century royal castle; at Rémy Martin, visitors explore the estate by train; and Camus offers an informative – and alcoholic – Master Blender workshop. Meukow has a stylish modern restaurant, where the meal can be preceded by an aperitif-style cognac and finished with a digestif. Martell, the oldest cognac house in the region, takes visitors through the whole production process from grape to glass, while Hennessy is launching a completely new tour on 23 May that promises a contemporary experience of cognac-making.

Most of the smaller producers are based outside the town, easily reached by following one of the Étapes de Cognac, five themed wine routes weaving their way through the vineyards.

This is a region that is never short of things to celebrate, and one of the most popular festivals is Cognac Blues Passions, which takes place this year from 5 to 9 July. Concerts by internationally-renowned performers take place throughout the day and evening, and many of them are free. On the final weekend of July, the Fete du Cognac promises a mixture of cocktails and local food, as well as concerts.

Sleep it off

It is even possible to spend the night among the vines. The 19^th century Château de Brillac, offers accommodation and spa facilities in the heart of the countryside. In the centre of Jarnac, the Ligaro is a typical 17^th century Charentaise town house which has been converted into a luxurious small hotel with a secluded garden.

Accommodation within Cognac itself ranges from stylish B&Bs like Les Tilleuls to the Francois Premier, a four-star spa hotel in the main square. And across the river from the old town is the Quai des Pontis, where visitors can rent cabins on stilts beside the water.

For further information see: tourism-cognac.com; lacharente.com; visit-poitou-charentes.com