Travelling long-haul with children

Once pristine - like much of the Yucatan peninsula up to the creation of Cancun in the 1970s - Xel-Ha's conversion into a private eco-park has been well managed, with plenty of restaurants and a seemingly endless array of activities. Bikes can be hired for a tour of the park, or you can while away the hours in a hammock overlooking the sea. The price of entry includes almost everything the park has to offer: jumping from the "cliff of courage" into the lagoon, swimming in Mayan caves, swinging on ropes through canyons, or just bobbing along in a large rubber ring. All around is the rainforest, with geckos scampering up trees and exotic birds above. And below, there are the fish - hundreds of them, each one more brightly coloured than its predecessor. The boys were ecstatic.

This was a relief, since not only was Mexico the furthest we had travelled on a family holiday, but the trip was also a revival of something we had stopped doing some time ago: the package holiday. Xel-Ha was a swift, much-needed antidote to a long-haul flight. But how would we fare in the psychologically, if not literally, confined space of the ready-made trip? We weren't sure, but reasoned that if we were going to fly such a long way with children, we needed to take the pressure off, once at our destination. So we signed up for a Direct Holidays "all-inclusive" package, staying at the five-star Hotel Paraiso Lindo, near Playa del Carmen on the Riviera Maya.

You pay for the flight and hotel and just about everything else, up-front. The kids want an ice-cream? No problem - send them off to the poolside heladeria. It's free (or, at least, already paid for). Thirsty? Swim up to the wet bar and order whatever takes your fancy. Hungry? Eat as much as you like for breakfast, lunch and supper. The food at the Paraiso Lindo was excellent, and this option proved tempting on too many occasions. You can also drink as much alcohol as you like.

The children relished the freedom to wander around the hotel complex, ordering ice-creams and drinks, swimming in one of the five pools and playing any number of games organised by the kids' club. We would alternate poolside slumbering with a meander to the beach, which was the quintessential vision of Caribbean paradise: white sands, placid turquoise water and endless sun. Watersports were free, too, as were the gym and tennis lessons.

The boys were in their element, and after a few days the taxing journey to Mexico had been forgotten. But the adults were getting restive. Fortunately our rep had alerted us to a number of excursions in his introductory talk. One was to Xel-Ha, another to the more famous, but less impressive, eco-park, Xcaret. There were plenty of others - not least to some of the Mayan ruins in the area.

The ruins of Tulum are set on a bluff overlooking the Caribbean, about 90 minutes' drive from Playa del Carmen. The setting is magnificent. For a better preserved Mayan city, head inland for three hours from the Riviera Maya to awe-inspiring Chichen Itza, which covers 30sq km.

Dipping into the mysteries of the Maya was intoxicating, but for a taste of modern-day Mexico we took a trip to Playa del Carmen. This was a sleepy fishing village until the developers saw the potential of Cancun and its environs in the 1970s. It has now become the centre of Riviera nightlife. Its Quinta Avenida (Fifth Avenue) is lined with bars, shops and restaurants. It is also a superb base from which to go diving on the barrier reef on Yucatan's fringe, which is second in size only to the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.

The boys were too young, so diving would have to wait. Back at the Paraiso Lindo, we ate one more feast and steeled ourselves for the long haul home.

The writer travelled as a guest of Direct Holidays (0870 191 9066; www.directholidays.co.uk). It offers a 14-night holiday at the Iberostar Paraiso Lindo in Playacar from £1,344 per person, based on two sharing. Child prices (aged 2-12) start at £730. The price includes return flights, transfers and all-inclusive accommodation.

Our favourite long-haul

Thailand is deservedly popular with families and we love the Evason Resort Phuket, which overlooks the dreamy Andaman Sea on the south-east of the island.

Its seven pool villas are great options for families - each one with its own private pool. Plus guests get the use of nearby Bon Island, just the place to play Robinson Crusoe.

Kuoni (01306 747 008; www.kuoni.co.uk) offers seven nights at the resort from £3,138 for a family of four (two adults and two children under 12), including return flights.