Settin' off from the dock of the Bay: Kayaking in Georgian Bay

In association with Ontario Tourism

Susan Griffith
Thursday 12 November 2015 10:47 EST
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Georgian Bay, Ontario
Georgian Bay, Ontario (Ontario Tourism)

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Docks are the quintessential Canadian place to hang out in summer. Local teenagers sunbathe and gossip. Older folks sit and drink in the vista. Fishermen will have hung a pail over the edge in order to catch some bait, aware that nocturnal raccoons are clever enough to lift them out of the water paw-over-paw. And there is always a canoe tied up, with a couple of life jackets and paddles in the bottom, itching to be paddled out on to the water.

And what a lot of water there is in Ontario. Just a few hours' drive north of Toronto, you come to Georgian Bay, a massive body of water almost big enough to be a Great Lake by itself. A long north-south strip of land called the Bruce Peninsula divides the bay from the main body of Lake Huron, the second largest of the Great Lakes. Beaches both sandy and pebbly nestle among the rocks of the complex shorelines. Scattered along Georgian Bay's eastern edge are a mind-boggling number of islands and islets – some 30,000 – creating a watery maze ideal for recreational boating.

Kayaking on Georgian Bay
Kayaking on Georgian Bay (Ontario Tourism)

The kayak is to Georgian Bay what the gondola is to Venice: you can't imagine one without the other. It’s the perfect craft for exploring the world's largest freshwater archipelago. The rhythmic dip of the paddle becomes hypnotic, as the Ontario sunshine warms your back and you approach silent granite islands polished by glaciers into the characteristic whaleback shape. The soil was scoured off millennia ago, though photogenic eastern white pines maintain a heroic toehold, with their characteristic lean to the east from having been buffeted by the prevailing winds. The dips and hollows gouged out by the glaciers have filled with water to form ponds and bogs. In this eco-wonderland, the pink of the granite is as nothing compared to the crimson of the sunsets. And once the sun has completely set, the canopy of stars appears.

It is not a tongue twister but a truth that pristine paddling places are protected by Provincial Parks. Of the 10 provincial and two national parks that touch Georgian Bay, the largest is French River, lying along the northern edge. Rustic cabins and tent sites can be reserved through park authorities. In general, the more accessible the campsite, the more crowded, particularly on weekends in high season. While some parks like Awenda near the town of Midland boast hot showers and flush loos at their campsites, in the deep backcountry amenities are limited.

Private canoe and kayak rentals are available at a multitude of marinas, costing from $35 (a reasonable £18 with the current favourable exchange rate) for a day. The most memorable trips involve local knowledge and camp-outs, as offered by a host of outfitters and operators. Seasoned outdoors enthusiasts teach handling and paddling skills with patience and good humour. Anyone can master an easy cruising stroke with the double-bladed paddle.

Pint-sized vessels are readily available in case you have children who want to join the adventure, giving them a chance to trail their fingers through the crystal clear waters – underwater visibility routinely reaches more than 20 metres – or clamber over ancient rocks, learn to do underwater handstands or daringly jump off cliffs into the deep water below.

Crystal clea waters at the Grotto, Georgian Bay
Crystal clea waters at the Grotto, Georgian Bay (Ontario Tourism)

Various outfitters offer guided trips, for example the Black Feather Wilderness Adventure Company (blackfeather.com) operates three-, five- and seven day kayak and camping trips in Georgian Bay starting at $695 (£350), while the Ontario Sea Kayak Centre (ontarioseakayakcentre.com) combines kayaking with yoga in a package costing £375. Novices start out in placid inlets and as they gain confidence travel out into the bay. Flat-water paddling can turn into something different if a wind suddenly whips up on exposed stretches of open water, so having an experienced guide is reassuring. Back-country canoeing or kayak touring is one of the best ways to see and experience the real Canada in all its pristine ruggedness.

Travel Essentials

Air Canada (aircanada.com) operates four flights a day from London Heathrow to Toronto and Air Canada rouge connects Edinburgh, Glasgow, Manchester and Dublin with Toronto. Air Canada rouge will also operate summer flights from Gatwick to Toronto from May 19th, 2016.

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Fly to Ontario with Air Canada rouge before embarking on the trip of a lifetime! Guided by Ray Mears, you'll journey deep into the spectacular backcountry of Northern Ontario, where you'll be immersed in Canada's canoe culture and the legend of Grey Owl. Paddle, camp, fish and learn bushcraft skills from the master himself. This is an adventure like no other.

For more travel information and to enter the contest visit www.ontariotravel.net/ukadventure

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