Majestic Missinaibi: escape the city and take to the river on this paddling pilgrimage

The majority of Canadians might barely recognise the name Missinaibi. Yet the 584km Missinaibi River is legendary in the paddling community. Just as the Maldives might be the holy grail for scuba divers, Yosemite for rock climbers and Antarctica for lovers of penguins, the Missinaibi is on the bucket list of wilderness canoe-trippers as one of the most unspoilt whitewater challenges anywhere.

The map of northern Ontario resembles the coat of a Dalmatian, speckled and freckled with thousands of lakes. Very little asphalt penetrates this ocean of water, forest and rock. In the days of exploration, lakes and rivers were the highways that connected trading forts, with canoes transporting furs and all other goods. From the 1770s, the Missinaibi River was the lifeblood of the London-headquartered Hudson's Bay Company, and established itself as the primary linking route between the Great Lakes and the Arctic Ocean through James Bay. Remnants of old trading forts can still be seen at archaeological sites. Dramatic geological formations add to the arresting beauty of the landscape. For example, at magical Thunderhouse Falls the river is forced through a narrow chute and plummets in stages through a steep-sided gorge into a foaming cauldron of water below.

Missinaibi Provincial Park falls largely inside the two million acre Chapleau Crown Game Preserve, which has been a hunting-free zone since 1925 and is the world’s largest wildlife preserve. Visitors are frequently able to paddle within easy viewing distance of a moose munching nonchalantly on water weeds. Chances of seeing a black bear are reasonable, since there is one per square kilometre, though you will want to stay out of their way. Canoe trippers carry bear whistles, which can also be used to signal companions if separated.

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All too abundant around shoreline campsites are biting blackflies and mosquitoes, which can drive even the moose insane. A large supply of bug spray must be used on all exposed parts - including during calls of nature - and a head net is advisable. In true northern backcountry style, camping pitches cannot be reserved and come with no facilities apart from the occasional firepit.

But the golden moments of encountering nature make it all worthwhile. Emerald damselflies hover, wood lilies and aster bloom, and fossils are abundant. The fishing is superlative, while wild blueberries and flowering chives might also enhance your dinner menu. Another big draw (in both senses) is the collection of native rock paintings of unknown antiquity. In the Cree language, Missinaibi means 'pictured waters' referring to the pictographs found along the river's banks. First Nations people crushed red ochre with fish oil to paint symbolic images of canoes, fish, caribou and mythical figures. The pictographs on a granite cliff at Fairy Point are best seen illuminated by the setting sun on a calm evening. Signs warn that the wind can suddenly create dangerous conditions in the area.

In fact, problems caused by the volatile weather are almost inevitable. In strong headwinds, pull in to shore and wait it out. The good news is that if your canoe capsizes, you will fetch up in a pool below the rapids. The water runs wilder in May and June, while in August water levels drop to reveal 'boulder gardens'. Carrying your canoe and gear along way-marked portage routes solves both problems. The 28 portages past waterfalls and rapids on the steeper upper river and up to 10 portages along the lower river north of Mattice vary in length from a few metres to an arduous kilometre or more. Some sections can be 'lined': when paddlers talk about 'lining up', they do not mean queuing, they mean walking their canoe like a dog on a leash past an obstacle.

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Canoeists should not attempt this challenging route on their own unless they are experienced or expert wilderness canoeists. However, anybody in good physical condition can attempt a 7-12 day segment of the river under the instruction and guidance of an outfitter such as Missinaibi Headwaters Outfitters, who can sort out transport logistics, supply canoes and camping gear, and provide shuttles to and from Timmins, the nearest airport with scheduled flights.

Air Canada (aircanada.com) operates four flights a day from London Heathrow to Toronto and Air Canada rouge connects Edinburgh, Glasgow, Manchester and Dublin with Toronto. Air Canada rouge will also operate summer flights from Gatwick to Toronto from May 19th, 2016.

No one can pretend that the Missinaibi is easily accessible by road. Arriving at the gateway town of Chapleau entails at least ten hours of driving from Toronto followed by a further two to three hours on a gravel road to an access point at Barclay Bay on one arm of wish-bone shaped Missinaibi Lake near the headwaters of the river. Other entry points include Peterbell (accessible only by VIA Rail, which carries canoes) and Mattice for the lower river. Missinaibi Headwaters Outfitters (missinaibi.com) offer a 9-day guided river and camping adventure starting at Racine Lake near Chapleau for $1,875/£940 plus tax. They also rent canoes, gear, arrange guides and provide shuttles. Other outfitters operating guided trips on the Missinaibi include Discover Paddling (discoverpaddling.ca) and Great Lakes Cultural Camps (culturalcamps.com).

Plus £300 of Mountain Warehouse gear and flight with Air Canada rouge.

Fly to Ontario with Air Canada rouge before embarking on the trip of a lifetime! Guided by Ray Mears, you'll journey deep into the spectacular backcountry of Northern Ontario, where you'll be immersed in Canada's canoe culture and the legend of Grey Owl. Paddle, camp, fish and learn bushcraft skills from the master himself. This is an adventure like no other.

For more travel information and to enter the contest, visit www.ontariotravel.net/ukadventure