Coffee rituals and sacred sites: How to spend 72 hours in Ethiopia

Even the morning rush hour couldn't diminish the vibrant energy of Ethiopia's capital.

Navigating through bustling crowds, our guide, Yonas Sewede from Landscape Ethiopia Tours, emphasised the sheer scale of this East African nation.

He suggested a minimum of three weeks to truly grasp its diverse landscapes – from the Simien Mountains' dramatic peaks to the Danakil Depression's sprawling salt plains.

Yet, for those with limited time, a shorter, impactful journey is still possible.

"With a few days, you can get a taste," Mr Zewede said.

And so began our whirlwind three-day adventure, a sprint through remote sacred sites and the vibrant pulse of Addis Ababa.

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Addis Ababa, Ethiopia’s bustling capital, is a city in constant flux, a dynamic blend of old and new. Construction projects dot the landscape, a testament to the city's rapid modernisation, yet historic churches and mosques stand proudly alongside trendy shops and restaurants.

Amidst this urban transformation, one of Ethiopia's most treasured traditions endures: its rich coffee culture.

A quintessential Addis Ababa experience begins at a place like Tomoca Coffee on Wavel Street, one of the city's original coffee roasters. Here, for less than £1, you can savor a strong macchiato or a gentler sprice, a blend of coffee and tea, in a vibrant, standing-room-only atmosphere.

But to truly immerse oneself in Ethiopian coffee culture, one must partake in a traditional coffee ceremony. This ritual, observed in homes, restaurants, and hotels across the country, is a sensory experience.

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The air fills with the fragrant smoke of incense and roasting coffee beans, ground by hand and brewed in a clay pot. The coffee is then poured with practiced precision, served alongside bowls of salted popcorn.

While a full coffee ceremony awaited us later, a quick caffeine boost at Tomoca fueled our exploration of the Merkato, one of Africa's largest open-air markets. Navigating this vibrant labyrinth of alleyways is an adventure in itself.

We spent hours weaving through a kaleidoscope of vendors selling everything from aromatic spices and handwoven baskets to live chickens. Mr Zewede expertly steered us through the bustling crowds, dodging both the chaotic traffic and precarious towers of merchandise balanced precariously on heads, all while keeping a watchful eye out for pickpockets.

Before leaving the Merkato, we enjoyed a roadside snack of warm chornake, a savory fried pastry, and refreshing papaya juice, preparing us for the next stage of our Addis Ababa adventure.

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For a more relaxed shopping experience, he brought us to Shiro Meda Market. Intricately embroidered dresses lined the walls from floor to ceiling alongside other colorful textiles. The ankle-length garments, called habesha kemis, sell for $15 to $50. At Safi Honey, we sampled exotic varieties like cactus, coffee and black cumin while delving into Ethiopia’s extensive beekeeping history.

We left with 16-ounce jars of the local delicacy at $9 each.

Anthropology enthusiasts will enjoy visiting a famous — and very ancient — resident: “Lucy,” one of the earliest hominid fossils. For a 40-cent entrance fee, the National Museum of Ethiopia has exhibitions on African art history and human evolution. A plaster replica of Lucy’s partial skeleton is on display, while her original remains are safely preserved in the museum’s vault.

As dusk settled over Addis, we made our way to the stylish 360 Lounge atop the Monarch Parkview Hotel. Here, one of the best views of the capital’s evolving skyline unfolded — modern towers rising above older tree-lined neighborhoods.

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We took a short, one-hour flight north to the Amhara Region, an area, it should be noted, where several countries maintain travel warnings due to recurring conflicts. We were transported to what felt like another Ethiopia entirely. Bouncing two to a seat in a sweltering van, we drove through rural highlands, mountain curves and scattered herds of livestock.

The destination proved worthwhile: Lalibela, a site that some consider an Eighth Wonder of the World.

More than 800 years ago, King Lalibela set out to create a “New Jerusalem” with 11 churches painstakingly carved out of solid volcanic rock. The craftsmanship is so extraordinary — using only 12th and 13th century hand tools — that local legend claims angels helped build them.

Beneath these architectural marvels lie catacombs and ceremonial passages, including a pitch-black tunnel said to represent the journey through hell.

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We found ourselves among thousands of pilgrims who had converged on Lalibela for the upcoming Orthodox Christmas. They formed seemingly endless processions through the hallowed passageways. Many had travelled on foot for weeks to reach this holy place and mark the end of their 43-day fast. We squeezed into the stone structures among worshippers deep in prayer. Many kissed the weathered walls; some paused to snap photos with us.

We began at Biete Medhane Alem, believed to be the largest monolithic church in the world according to UNESCO. Its grand scale was remarkable, with more than 30 imposing columns adorning its exterior. But Biete Ghiorgis, or Church of Saint George, was the most memorable site, with its iconic cross shape. Peering down into its sunken courtyard, it was easy to see how this blend of nature, architecture and spirituality has captivated visitors for centuries.

Later, at Kana Restaurant and Bar overlooking Lalibela, we lingered over aromatic awaze tibs (a spicy meat dish) and hearty vegetable stews served on fresh Ethiopian flatbread, or injera. We watched the sun sink behind distant mountains, knowing we’d barely scratched the surface of Ethiopia – and already planning our return.