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This Europe: Spanish matadors pack their capes in search of glory

Tim Gaynor
Thursday 25 July 2002 19:00 EDT
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When Andalusian matador Francisco "Curro" Martinez packs his cape, swords and brocade-trimmed traje de luces (literally, "suit of lights" – the bullfighters' sequined suit)in his suitcase, his lifelong dreams of glory take him far beyond Spain.

Faced with a competitive national circuit that grants few breaks to newcomers, the 27-year-old is one of a score of journeyman bullfighters who chance their lives in the arenas of Latin America, and the mean streets beyond.

"There are around 20 matadors who get most of the fights in Spain, and another 200 who are looking for a place in that group," he said. "For the majority of humble matadors, the situation is difficult. I have four corridas [bullfights] booked this year [in Spain], but I have friends who have just one, and others who are forced to give up bullfighting altogether."

While bill-topping bullfighters can earn up to €55,000 (£34,000) for each corrida, Mr Martinez says many up-and-coming matadors are forced to work at odd jobs in the closed season. They fight in the "training camps" of Mexico, Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela and Peru.

Fated to be a bullfighter since being wrapped in his matador uncle's embroidered cape at his christening, Mr Martinez first travelled to Latin America at the age of 17 to fight as a novillero (novice) in Mexico. "You go out alone, and when you get there you know practically no one," he said. "You sacrifice two months of your life to a country where anything can happen."

Mr Martinez said some things remained constant: the rules of the corrida are the same, and local managers invariably left fighters short-changed.

"They always cheat you. They promised me $900 for every corrida, but they ended up paying just $500," says the matador, whose prowess saw his three-fight contract extended to 10 bullfights during his stay. "You don't go for the money, but to gain experience."

And for Mr Martinez – four-times gored and with both arms and a shoulder broken in an 80-fight career – he's getting plenty of that.

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