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St George's finest or a disgrace to the flag? A hard day's night in the life of England fans

Soaking up the sun all day and the beer all night, supporters tell Steve Bloomfield in Albufeira, Portugal, 'We're not here to fight'

Saturday 19 June 2004 19:00 EDT
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Tom, Jamie and Barney have been doing their best to avoid trouble all week, drinking in bars away from the main crowds of England fans and moving on at any signs of violence. "That isn't what we came for," says Jamie. "We're just here for the football and a good time."

Tom, Jamie and Barney have been doing their best to avoid trouble all week, drinking in bars away from the main crowds of England fans and moving on at any signs of violence. "That isn't what we came for," says Jamie. "We're just here for the football and a good time."

The three former school friends from Shrewsbury say they are knackered on Friday night. "We've hardly slept for two days," says Barney. They drove up to Coimbra on Thursday to watch England's game against Switzerland and got back to their resort of Albufeira the following evening after a seven-hour drive. "We watched the France-Croatia game last night in the square with the French and Croats," says Jamie. "It was a great atmosphere.No trouble."

10pm

The three 24-year-olds are eating and having a drink in Gran Via, a tapas restaurant down the road from the main strip where most of the trouble has occurred. They were in a bar nearby last Tuesday night when they say hundreds of England fans fought with riot police. "We thought being down here away from it all would be great, but it's not," says Barney. "It just shows how easy it is to get caught up in it. We did our best to avoid it, but as soon as the police pile in with the dogs you're gonna get whacked. Loads of people ran off, but I didn't because I thought it would look like I was guilty. A policeman asked me where I was from, I said England, then he hit me in the ribs."

Jamie pitches in: "Vicious it was. It scared the shit out of me - especially as it was our first night."

"They're just meat-heads," says Tom, talking about the England fans who are looking for violence. "Idiots. We just came out for drinks and then there's riot police there and everything's kicked off. It looked pretty organised."

But they're not going to let it stop them having a good time on their holiday. Tom Bradbury is a customer account manager in Bristol. Jamie Price is a land surveyor in London. Barney - real name Ben Barnard - is studying at the University of East London. They've been here together for a week and hope to stay for another two - so long as England don't get knocked out. "We've got tickets for the final," says Jamie. "It had better be England!"

Midnight

The three wander down the main strip looking for a good place to drink. There is a heavy police presence, though most are wearing berets and no body armour. England fans line the pavements, chanting "Ingerlund!" and drinking beer. There are very few women - it is mainly men in their 20s and 30s. Barney suggests the Garage bar. They drink outside. The night is warm. Now riot police dressed as menacingly as storm troopers march down the road. They are followed by half a dozen mounted policemen. Everyone cranes their necks to see what's going on down the street. One Englishman, in shorts and checked shirt, is frog-marched away by two officers.

"You can feel the atmosphere," says Barney. "This isn't good."

Burberry-capped beer boys start chanting "No surrender to the IRA". Another group further up the strip join in. Then we get a performance of "Rule Britannia", before they move on to a rousing rendition of "If it wasn't for the English you'd be Krauts". The atmosphere has definitely changed.

Tom keeps glancing down the road as more riot police walk past. "You've got to keep looking over your shoulder," he says. "I don't like it."

2am

There is an ugly stand-off between the police and fans. The police policy appears to be to pile in every now and again and drag off a ring-leader. Sometimes half a dozen officers charge down the road dispersing a group of fans. Then the fans turn on the photographers. Since last Tuesday's violence, every newspaper and press agency has sent photographers to Albufeira to find trouble. "Traitors!" the fans cry. A rumour goes round that one tabloid is paying people to start a riot. "Stick your fucking cameras up your arse," they sing. Everyone is getting edgy. Tom, Barney and Jamie decide to head back to their hotel. "It's turning nasty," says Jamie. No one disagrees.

11am

Barney and Tom emerge for breakfast, but Jamie is still asleep. Breakfast is a full English and a glass of beer at the Bulldog (the finest English breakfast in town, claims the blackboard). The sun is out and the atmosphere could not be more different from last night. The streets are buzzing with England fans soaking up the sun. There are noticeably more women out during the day. Bare-chested men with St George's tattoos sit out in the sun drinking beer.

Tom and Barney head to the beach. "This is what it's all about," says Tom as they arrive. Beer in hand, they find a spot to sunbathe and watch the world go by. Later they will wander back in to town to watch yet another game of football. "Could be worse, couldn't it," Tom laughs.

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