Stay up to date with notifications from The Independent

Notifications can be managed in browser preferences.

Native Americans' favourite delicacy is 'junk'

David Usborne
Monday 22 August 2005 19:00 EDT
Comments

Your support helps us to tell the story

From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.

At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.

The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.

Your support makes all the difference.

Most of them don't want to hear it, but the one food that Native Americans really consider theirs is under attack. The pancake discs known as fry bread - made of flour, lard, sugar and salt - are being labelled a serious health hazard and a prime cause of diabetes.

According to the US Department of Agriculture, each serving of fry bread contains at least 700 calories and 27g of fat. Meanwhile, the prevalence of diabetes among American Indians in the United States is twice that of the general population.

Leading the campaign to wean her fellow Indians off the stuff is Susan Shown Harjo, who writes a column for Indian Country Today newspaper and has caused a furore by calling fry bread junk food. A fierce and often ill-tempered debate within the Native Indian community has ensued.

"It's the connecting dot between healthy children and obesity, hypertension, diabetes, dialysis, blindness, amputations and slow death," Ms Harjo wrote. She concluded that the food is simply "rotten stuff".

The delicacy was borne out of necessity and adversity when white Americans began marching the natives out of their ancestral homes in the 19th century, separating them from their traditional food sources of elk, deer, rabbit and milk. What they gave them instead were rations of flour and the other ingredients of fry bread.

"Just because it was food that was forced on us doesn't mean we have to keep embracing it," Ms Harjo said.

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in