Stay up to date with notifications from The Independent

Notifications can be managed in browser preferences.

AP PHOTOS: A shepherd keeps up the ancient rite of guiding sheep across northern Spain

Lvaro Barrientos
Thursday 03 August 2023 02:50 EDT

Your support helps us to tell the story

From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.

At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.

The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.

Your support makes all the difference.

A fine cloud of dust drifts across the sun-drenched landscape. The tinkling of sheep bells floats in the air, announcing the movement of 1,000 sheep and some goats through an ancient Spanish transhumance — or livestock migration — route.

Over seven days, the flock is guided with skill by shepherd Ángel Mari Sanz, 62, keeping up a tradition dating back to the ninth century.

The flock will plod its way over the route, known as “La Cañada de The Roncaleses” (The Path of the Roncaleses). They will pass through the arid lands of Las Bardenas Reales area in the northern region of Navarra and arrive in the cooler, greener valleys and mountains of the Pyrenees.

Near the town of Vidangoz, the sheep will graze until mid-September when the weather changes, and Sanz will shepherd his flock back south.

Modern farming methods have reduced the transhumance seasonal movement of livestock to greener pastures in Spain and other countries in recent decades.

Shepherds and environmentalists try to promote the practice, saying it's more sustainable and helps protect the land from wildfires as the animals eat up grass, leaves and twigs along the way.

Some sheep pant in the intense heat. They break into a run whenever they sense a nearby spring or pond.

“This pastoral life is disappearing,” Sanz says. Trekking these hills since he was 14, he knows the paths like the back of his hand.

“Here, I have spent my life,” he comments nostalgically. “I have had freedom, living in the countryside with nature.”

He criticizes authorities for not promoting transhumance more.

“There is a lot of neglect," Sanz says. "There hasn't been any kind of support for the rural world.”

Sanz calculates he has walked about 25,000 kilometers (15,000 miles) up and down these valleys in the nearly half-century he has been herding.

The sheep are led by goats. Age and tiredness sometimes sets in and it’s not unknown for some of the animals to die along the way, their carcasses being left for the vultures that can regularly be seen hovering above.

Sanz is accompanied by his 14-year-old daughter Mireia, and three or four others each year. A van carries provisions and tents for camping.

But as much as he loves his work, Sanz says doesn’t want his "daughter to be a shepherd for anything in the world.”

“This is a slave’s work and it is not worth all this effort today to barely survive," he says.

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in