Valentino challenges masculine notions, opening Milan Fashion Week menswear previews
The cries of adoring fans filled the air as stars like actor Jacob Elordi and Italian singer Elodie arrived for the Valentino show, which opened Milan Fashion Week menswear previews on Friday
Your support helps us to tell the story
From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.
At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.
The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.
Your support makes all the difference.The cries of adoring fans filled the air as stars like actor Jacob Elordi and Italian singer Elodie arrived for the Valentino show, which opened Milan Fashion Week menswear previews on Friday.
The Milan menswear calendar was missing some mainstays, but the return of Valentino’s menswear for this season kicked off the week with high energy. British singer Labrinth provided a live soundtrack from center stage, pumping music into the colonnaded courtyard of Milan’s state university.
Students, taking a break from their regular class schedule, watched from beneath the colonnade, while the fashion crowd tented show notes on their head to protect from the beating sun — many regretting dressing in black.
The show was a homecoming of sorts for the French-owned Italian brand: Fashion house founder Valentino Garavani staged his first menswear runway show in Italy’s fashion capital in 1985, and regularly showed menswear in Milan until his retirement in 2008.
Some highlights from Friday's show of mostly menswear previews for next spring and summer:
VALENTINO LIFTS LOOKS WITH FLORAL DETAILING
Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection for next summer is rooted in tailoring with some feminine flair, seen in softening colors and flowing shapes. But it was the floral detailing that lifted the collection.
The suit is the bedrock look, starting with monochromes in white: jacket, shirt, tie and a thigh-revealing Bermuda short. Black footwear, socks and accessories ensured the urban edge.
The shorts were sometimes transformed into a skirt. And tailored bottoms — short, pant or skirt — could be paired with a shirt, boxy top or a silken V-neck with contrasting ties that billowed in the welcome breeze.
Floral notes elevated the looks, like forever boutonnieres giving life to garments in sequins, appliques, embroidery and graphic prints — never the same. From white and then black, the color palette exploded into fuchsia and pink, red and royal blue, with notes of gray, always in clean, studied monochromes.
The fashion house announced a donation to the university for scholarships for the next academic year. It also said it is working with a company to recycle, reuse or resell runway materials, and it is planting trees in Milan’s Public Gardens, close to Valentino’s Milan offices.