WHO SHOT WHAT

Saturday 24 October 1998 18:02 EDT
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Cover girls: Amber Valletta on Harper's Bazaar (right); Sophie Dahl and Jodie Kidd on Scene; Kate Moss on Vogue and Helena Christensen on Elle.

Ballgowns a go-go: Autumn got all posh with Seine-side frocks in Harper's Bazaar; House of Eliot glamour in Vogue; and Sloanes in The Face.

Knit one, pearl one: Fashion went all woolly with sweater dresses in Harper's Bazaar; funnel-necked sweates in the Express, cashmere in Scene; cardigans in Elle; knitted frocks in i-D and chunky jumpers in Frank.

Logos go loco: i-D devoted an eight-page photoshoot to Levi's. No problem, except the credits were rather imposing. There were more capital letters and registered trademarks than in a MacDonald's advert ("Levi's 566 Original STA-PREST pants" were a particular favourite). Fashion Month scoured the page - was this an advertorial? A little promotion? Nope. So is it cool and hip to be up the arse of a corporate fashion label? We hope not.

Boyish charms: David Beckham (below) was voted GQ's most stylish man of the year (but Johnny Vaughan was a runner-up, so it's no accolade). Countrified suits in the Sunday Times; fleecies in this newspaper; knitted ties in the Sunday Times; collars and ties in i-D and assassin-style pinstriped suits in GQ.

Workwear: Fashion went all functional. Harper's Bazaar goes all Farrah Fawcett-in-a-cardi on us; Scene reinvents the school uniform while Vogue decided that bluestockings were the latest in intellectual chic.

Precious metals: We got all glitzy again with silver in the Sunday Times, Vogue and the Express; gold in the Evening Standard and Frank.

Not more hippies: Yep, I'm afraid that half-cut, rich-with-a-spliff look is still with us. Opulent urban/ ethnic mixes were in Vogue while rock chics with a hippy twist pouted in Elle. Now even Cher's at it.

Get thee to a nunnery: Floor-length passion-killers were the Order of the day with sack-cloths and ashes in Scene; monastic minimalism in Vogue; nomadic blanket chic in The Face.

Fur frenzy: Gwyneth Paltrow (above) admitted she loved it in Elle ("I keep myself happy with little touches here and there, especially around the face"). In case you think she's into comedy beards, Harper's Bazaar went wild for sable coats and black mink maxi skirts.

Profiles: The stars who made the pages included Helmut Lang in Scene; Gianfranco Ferre in Vogue; Valentino in Elle; Alek Weck in the Sunday Times; Martine Sitbon in Frank and Dries van Noten in the Observer.

Colours: No change here. White and grey in Vogue; olive in Elle; black in Frank.

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