Montreal: From coastline to vineyards, where to eat and drink
It's full of diverse cultures, most famous for its poutine and smoked meat sandwiches, but there’s much more to it than that. Karen Burns-Booth uncovers some of the best spots in the city
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Your support makes all the difference.I’ve travelled the length and breadth of Canada; it is without doubt my most favourite country to visit, with its towering mountains, frozen arctic terrain, wild coastline, verdant fields, vineyards and vibrant multi-cultural cities – there are still many places I’ve not visited that are on my list.
And, if I’m honest, as a food and travel writer, it’s always the food that is a big draw for me too. Food often showcases a nation’s culture and identity, and Canada has a wealth of different nationalities as well as its First Nations peoples, so you can expect a very unique approach to food (and wine) when travelling around this vast country.
Montreal in Quebec has always fascinated me, especially with my links to France where I live most of the year. This predominantly French-speaking province in the east of the country is connected by the Chemin du Roy highway along the Saint Lawrence River.
The city of Montreal is named after Mt Royal, with a triple-peaked hill at its heart, and is one of my favourite cities in the country. Even in France, as well as Canada, it is known for its original and exciting food scene – I’ve heard French friends talk fondly and with passion of memorable meals and trips in Montreal, as well as its famous food markets.
So, what is the food scene in Montreal? Well, I always think of it as a cornucopia of different immigrant’s cultural and historical recipes, with more than a pinch of modernity added (especially when you venture up the foodie ladder to the fine dining end). For me, Montreal is the hub of good food and wine, which is amply represented by its numerous food markets, of which Marche Jean Talon is my favourite. It has the most amazing array of fresh and preserved produce, cafés, book shops and cook shops, with a riot of colour and tempting aromas to lure you into small side streets at every turn.
It’s not just a market for fresh produce; there are numerous bistros, kiosks and restaurants there too, where you can enjoy a small snack or sit down to a freshly cooked meal, no doubt made with some of the produce on sale in the market. Montreal’s smaller market, Marche Atwater, is also worth a visit, if only for breakfast or brunch at the Premiere Moisson – here you can enjoy a freshly made almond croissant or cinnamon bun, while sipping a bowl of creamy cafe au lait and watching the world go around.
After breakfast or brunch, why not lunch at Olive et Gourmando in Vieux Montreal (Old Montreal); situated just down from Hotel Nelligan, the fabulous boutique hotel I was staying in, this popular cafe-cum-bistro is charmingly situated on the corner of two streets with a warm and friendly atmosphere, as well as a wonderful array of ‘daily plates’, freshly baked pastries, sandwiches and the most amazing fresh coffee. I enjoyed the house speciality of house-made ricotta, which is served with seasonal garnishes and assorted grilled breads. The mac and cheese is legendary and comprises mushrooms, caramelised onions and truffle tapenade baked with Parmesan and breadcrumbs; a real ‘le must have’! Breakfast is also served here and I loved their poached egg "on your face", which was spicy poached eggs with herbs and mayonnaise, Louis d'Or cheese, speck and slow-roasted tomatoes one cold and frosty morning.
It’s probably time to engage with most famous dish now – a Montreal-style smoked meat sandwich. The smoked meat (simply called smoked meat in the vernacular) it's a type of kosher-style deli meat product made by salting and curing beef brisket with specially mixed spices. The brisket is allowed to absorb the flavours over a week, and is then hot smoked for the final step. It’s typically served in light rye bread, with mild (yellow) mustard and a sweet dill pickle, as well as a can of cherry cola. The most famous smoked meat deli in Montreal is Schwartz’s Deli, which is co-owned by Celine Dion, although Reuben’s Deli in downtown Montreal is also a great place to enjoy this iconic dish.
If smoked meat sandwiches are one of Montreal’s most famous hot meals, then you cannot leave the city without trying (and buying) a Montreal-style bagel. Smaller, thinner, sweeter and denser than a New York bagel, it is always baked in a wood-fired oven, which I had the opportunity to see as well as shape and bake a full batch at St-Viateur Bagel bakery. There are two main bagel bakeries, St-Viateur and Fairmount, and in true competitive fashion, they both claim to be the original bakery and to have the best bagels. Both bakeries also sell all the ‘fixings’ for a quick snack – Lox (smoked salmon), sour cream, capers, pickles, sliced onions, etc. so you can pop in to buy a bag of bagels for breakfast and grab a snack at the same time. Both bakeries are open twenty-four hours too.
One last recommendation before I sign off – one of the best ways to see, taste and enjoy the Montreal food scene is to go on a food tour. I was lucky enough to go on a half-day tour with the amazing Melissa from Round Table Tours – she took me around Jean Talon market before a trip to a cheese shop, lunch at Schwartz’s Deli, a chocolate tasting session at a local chocolatier and ending with a hands-on cooking experience at St-Viateur Bagels. Melissa is very knowledgeable about the history of the Montreal food scene and her Jewish Montreal and China Town trips are often sold out, so you need to book well in advance.
For haute cuisine, I can heartily recommend Restaurant Toqué! for edgy modern food with a fabulous wine pairing menu, a great option if it's your first time and you'd like to try a little bit of everything. I also enjoyed a cookery demonstration with acclaimed local chef Marc-Oliver Eloy of Au Petit Extra Restaurant, and dinner in the Ritz Carlton with my friend who lives in Montreal. Wherever you go or whatever you eat in Montreal, it will be fabulous, as I never encountered a bad meal during my two stays in this food-orientated city – bon appetit!
This article first appeared on Great British Chefs. For more food guides, visit greatbritishchefs.com
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