Is Apple’s taco emoji actually authentic?

In 2015, the taco – a staple foodstuff for millions of people; a morning meal, easy lunch, Tuesday dinner and late-night bite – got its own emoji. But that first draft, with its yellow, crunchy-looking tortilla, layer of brown meat, shredded orange cheese and red and green pixelated garnish, was the subject of much disdain.

“While Emojipedia describes the new character as ‘a Mexican food item,’ the taco depicted by Apple isn’t Mexican at all,” journalist Caitlin Dewey wrote in 2015. “Crispy taco shell, strips of lettuce, shredded yellow cheese: this is the stuff of American fast-food chains, not Mexican cuisine.”

Indeed, taco experts and fanatics in Los Angeles were quick to dismiss the emoji, calling it inauthentic and a “gringo taco” dreamed up by Big Fast Food. There was truth to that critique: Taco Bell put its money and mouth behind the campaign to get a taco emoji, so it’s no wonder that most taco emoji on the various operating systems still look like the chain’s signature taco.

A year later, Apple redesigned its emoji to feature a soft tortilla and pleasing melange of fillings. Lots of people say it is a somewhat more accurate representation of the Mexican dish (the original depiction, with its crunchy shell and orange cheese, remains at-large on other operating systems). But is Apple’s soft taco emoji more authentic?

The tacos I grew up eating were a multicultural mix: my Puerto Rican dad would add sazón to the meat mixture, and my Iranian mum would put thin french fries atop the stewed filling. Herbs, shredded iceberg and orange colby were the main garnishes on tacos built into crunchy shells, soft flour tortillas or even squares of lavash.

In my 20s, I moved to southern California, arguably the world’s leading taco capital outside Mexico. There, among the many taco trucks and gas station stalls, rich, tempting spits and white-hot griddles, is Mitla Cafe. Since 1937 the small restaurant has served a generous variety of homestyle Mexican dishes, including chiles rellenos, enchiladas and tamales. Also on the menu? Tacos dorados, or what many north of the border call crunchy tacos.

It’s not a stretch to say that Taco Bell wouldn’t exist if it hadn’t been for Mitla. It was at Mitla in San Bernardino that Taco Bell founder Glen Bell had his first taste of a crunchy, fried taco shell filled with meat, salsa and shredded cheese. It sounds like a legend, but that’s only because it’s a true story that’s not told often enough.

My point is: authenticity is a myth. So, I’ll always have a soft spot for all kinds of crunchy tacos, whether they’re the puffy tacos popular in San Antonio or the Americanised high school cafeteria-style hard-shell tacos with orange cheese. Golden on the outside and filled to the top lip of their shell, these tacos dorados are proof positive that Mexican culture is alive and well. Just like all the different taco emoji, there’s a taco for every taste.

This variation on the crunchy taco substitutes crumbled and sauteed tempeh for the meat. It’s a neat party trick, and one I think you should try for dinner tonight.

Inspired by the taco emoji, with its hard taco shell and layers of filling, this variation stars tempeh. Made from fermented soybeans, tempeh is generally sold in 225g bricks. Crumble it or shred it on the large holes of a grater, then saute with all of the usual aromatics and spices. Fill hard taco shells or your choice of tortilla, then top each taco with cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, salsa, sour cream and hot sauce – or however you like them. This also makes a fine taco salad.

Notes: Instead of tempeh, use a 400g block of extra firm tofu, pressed and crumbled, or 450g of lean meat mince. If using beef, lamb or turkey mince, omit the oil, as the meat will contain enough fat to saute the other ingredients.

To make your own taco seasoning, for 1 tbsp: combine ¾ tsp fine salt, ½ tsp onion or garlic powder, ½ tsp ground cumin, ½ tsp paprika (any kind), ½ tsp ground black pepper and ¼ tsp crushed red pepper flakes.

Storage notes: Refrigerate leftovers for up to 4 days.

Total time: 30 minutes

Serves: 2

Ingredients:

3 tbsp vegetable or another neutral oil

230g tempeh, grated or crumbled (see notes)

1 small onion (about 140g), preferably yellow, minced or coarsely grated

2 cloves garlic, minced or finely grated

2 tbsp tomato paste

2 tbsp water, plus more as needed

1 tbsp taco seasoning mix, plus more to taste (see notes)

4 to 6 hard taco shells or other tortillas, warmed if desired

120g shredded cheese, preferably colby or a meltable blend, plus more to taste (optional)

120g shredded lettuce, preferably iceberg

1 medium tomato, diced

Sour cream, for serving (optional)

Chunky salsa, for serving (optional)

Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

Method:

In a large cast-iron frying pan over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers. Add the tempeh and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until they start to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the tomato paste, letting it toast slightly and begin to brown and coat the tempeh, about 2 minutes. Stir in the water and taco seasoning. Taste, and adjust seasoning and add more water, if desired. Remove from the heat.

To build the tacos, scoop about 70g of the tempeh crumbles into each taco shell or tortilla. Divide the cheese, if using, and lettuce and tomatoes among each taco shell. Top with the sour cream, salsa and hot sauce, if desired, and serve.

Nutrition information per serving (2 to 3 tacos), based on 2 | Calories: 811; total fat: 59g; saturated fat: 16g; cholesterol: 54mg; sodium: 679mg; carbohydrates: 39g; dietary fibre: 5g; sugar: 6g; protein: 39g.

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

© The Washington Post