Second helpings: Other centenarian British restaurants

Terry Durack
Saturday 12 October 2002 19:00 EDT
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Simpson's-in-the-Strand 100 Strand, London WC2, tel: 020 7836 9112 Don't bother looking outside to see what year it is. Inside Simpson's Grand Divan, with its sombre air and wood panelling, it is irrelevant. Dating back to the 19th century, Simpson's is a monument to those long-held British beliefs that the sole should be grilled, shrimps should be potted and beef should be carved at one's table, properly accompanied by Yorkshire pudding. Clientele tends to be to the right of conservative.

English's of Brighton 29 East Street, Brighton, tel: 01273 327 980 Housed in three fisherman's cottages dating back 400 years, this 150 year-old Brighton stalwart has been run by the Leigh-Jones family since 1945. We're not sure what their most famous customer Charlie Chaplin, would make of the caramelised prawns and ginger with crispy fried noodles, but he would feel right at home with the Scottish smoked salmon or eels in parsley sauce.

Rules 35 Maiden Lane, London WC2, tel: 020 7836 5314 Established in 1798, this former haunt of Dickens, Thackeray and Edward VII bills itself as London's oldest restaurant. Somehow, it manages to be olde worlde without being old fashioned. The cluttered rooms are a delight, the staff courteous and much of the game is sourced from the restaurant's own estate in the High Pennines. The steak and kidney pud with oysters deserves stuffing and mounting.

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