Slow-cooked veal with preserved lemons and black olives

Slow-cooked one-pot meals are irresistible. They can be made well ahead of time – and, in fact, are better if allowed to cool and then gently reheated then served with good bread and a crisp green salad. This one is perfect at this time of year, as the preserved lemon adds a certain zing and liveliness to the finished dish.

1kg/2lb rose veal rump
2 tbsp olive oil
2 red onions, peeled and finely sliced
3 carrots, peeled and sliced into generous chunks
1 dried red chilli, crumbled
1 bouquet garni (parsley, thyme and bay )
120ml/4fl oz dry white wine
2 tins of good-quality, peeled plum tomatoes
200ml/7fl oz chicken or veal stock
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
20 or so little black olives, pips removed
2 preserved lemons, well rinsed and sliced into fairly fine slices
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Trim the veal of any fine outer membrane and slice into two-inch pieces. Place a large pan over a medium heat and add the olive oil. Season the veal generously all over and, once the oil is hot, add to the pan. You may have to do this in two batches, for it is important that the pan is not overcrowded, as the meat will stew rather than brown.

Brown the meat really well all over then remove from the pan and set aside. Pour off any excess oil and if the pan is burnt, allow to cool slightly then wipe out with a damp cloth. Add the onions, carrots, garlic, chilli and bouquet garni, turn the heat to low and cook for 20 minutes, stirring from time to time.

Once the vegetables are soft, return the meat to the pan and turn the heat up a little, add the wine and allow to bubble slightly. Add the tomatoes and stock, stir well and return the heat to low. Cook for 2 hours over the lowest heat possible until the meat is soft and falling apart.

Finally, add the olives and lemon slices and cook for a further 15-20 minutes, adjust the seasoning and serve.