Nisha Katona’s big flavour twists to classic dishes

“One of my favourite supper dishes is my gin and tonic salmon, which matches herbs and botanicals with the delicate flavours of the fish. It set me thinking about other herbal combinations to complement fish and in a flash of inspiration, I realised that the pungently aromatic herbs of Thailand – galangal, makrut (kaffir) lime, lemongrass – might be the perfect foil for the oily flesh of trout.”

In this case, tequila works beautifully. “An elegant dish for a summer’s evening. A tequila soda and lime on the side is entirely optional, but advised.”

Serves: 4

Ingredients:

4 whole rainbow trout, gutted and cleaned

250ml soda water

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the marinade:

4 tbsp tequila

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime

3 garlic cloves, crushed

A small chunk of galangal, peeled and grated

1 lemongrass stalk, finely shredded

6 makrut (kaffir) lime leaves, finely shredded

½ red chilli, finely diced

1 tsp ground coriander

To serve:

A handful of fresh coriander

Flaky sea salt

Lime wedges

Cooked rice

Method:

1. The night before you want to cook the dish, marinate the fish. Put all the marinade ingredients in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper. Spread a quarter of the mixture inside each trout, then put the trout in a large baking dish and pour over the soda water. Place in the refrigerator overnight.

2. The next day, remove the fish from the refrigerator and preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Place the dish in the oven and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the fish is opaque and cooked through.

3. If the sauce has not reduced sufficiently, remove the fish to a plate and cover with foil to keep warm. Tip all the juices from the pan into a saucepan and place over a medium heat. Let the liquid bubble over the heat until it has reduced to a sticky sauce.

4. Serve the trout with the sauce poured over the top and a scattering of fresh coriander leaves. Sprinkle with flaky salt and provide limes on the side, as is obligatory with your tequila. Serve with rice.

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“This recipe is all about experimenting with new flavours – the sweet-and-sour sharpness that the citrusy amchoor brings to this rich starter or light lunch is delightful.”

“Amchoor is a spice not frequently used in Western cuisine – it’s probably not something everyone has on their spice rack along with the usual cumin and coriander, but do give it a go if you can find it.”

A large cauliflower should easily yield four steaks, with some left over.

Serves: 2-4

Ingredients:

4 cauliflower steaks, each 2cm thick

70g butter

1 tbsp amchoor

1 tsp ground coriander

1 large garlic clove, crushed

60g shelled pistachios

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1-2 limes, halved

To serve:

1 fresh ripe mango, peeled, stoned and sliced

Dollops of thick plain yogurt

A large handful of fresh coriander sprigs

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and line a baking sheet with foil. Lay your cauli steaks on the baking sheet.

2. Melt the butter in a small bowl in the microwave (or in a small pan on the hob/stovetop) and stir in the amchoor, coriander, garlic and a good pinch of salt. Brush this mixture over both sides of the cauliflower steaks, then bake in the oven for 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, make the pistachio crumb. Finely chop the pistachios, put them in a bowl and season well with salt and pepper.

4. Once the 15 minutes are up, turn the steaks over. Add the lime halves to the tray and return it to the oven for another 15 minutes, or until the cauli steaks are tender and really starting to take on some colour.

5. After this time, sprinkle the chopped pistachios over the tops of the cauli steaks and return them to the oven for about three minutes to toast the pistachios. Keep an eye on them as they can burn easily.

6. Serve the cauli steaks with slices of fresh mango, a dollop of yogurt, fresh coriander and a squeeze of the roasted lime juice.

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“The tang the Marmite brings to the caramel swirl running through these blondies is unusual, but I know you will be pleasantly surprised by the flavour. Just like a good salted caramel, the slight saltiness of the Marmite combined with the natural bitterness of the walnuts enhances and offsets the sweetness of the blondie.

“The caramel sinks into the batter slightly on cooking and you end up with a cinder toffee effect on top.”

You can use shop-bought caramel or dulce de leche if you prefer.

Makes: 12

Ingredients:

175g plain flour

½ tsp baking powder

180g salted butter, melted and cooled

280g light brown sugar

2 eggs

2 tsp vanilla extract

100g chopped walnuts

For the Marmite caramel:

125g caster sugar

30g salted butter

100ml double cream

2 tbsp Marmite

Method:

1. First make the caramel, so it’s ready for when you need it. Put four tablespoons of water in a saucepan and tip in the sugar. Place the pan over a medium heat and stir gently until the sugar has dissolved, then leave it to cook for five minutes or so, without stirring, until it is a lovely golden colour.

2. Throw in the butter and let it melt in, then remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cream. It may spit at first, but keep stirring until you have a smooth sauce. Once fully combined, stir in the Marmite, transfer the mixture to a pouring jug and set aside to cool.

3. For the blondies, preheat the oven to 180C/gas 4. Line a 20 x 30 centimetre/eight x 12 inch brownie tin with baking parchment. Sift the flour and baking powder into a bowl.

4. In another bowl, stir together the melted butter and sugar. Once combined, stir in the eggs and vanilla extract. Add the flour mixture and fold in, then fold in the chopped walnuts. Pour the mixture into the prepared brownie tin and spread level.

5. If the caramel has set too much and is no longer pourable, heat it gently for a few seconds to loosen it up. Drizzle the caramel all over the top of the blondie, then stir it gently through with the handle of a spoon or a skewer to create a marbled effect in the batter.

6. Bake the blondie for about 30 minutes, or until the mixture is just set. Leave to cool for a few minutes in the tin before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. Once cool, slice into 12 squares. Store in an airtight tin for up to three days.

‘BOLD: Big Flavour Twists to Classic Dishes’ by Nisha Katona (Nourish Books, £30).