Leiths’ guide to making vinaigrettes and cold fresh sauces

When making vinaigrettes it is important to balance the oil, acidity, flavours and seasoning. Dip one of the salad ingredients into the dressing to taste and make sure the flavour and seasoning are right. The flavour of the leaf may affect the flavour of the dressing, and a slight adjustment of the balance and seasoning may be necessary.

The standard ratio of oil to acid in a dressing is 3 parts oil (often olive) to 1 part acid (usually wine vinegar), but this is entirely dependent on the type of oil and vinegar used. So tasting the dressing becomes that much more important in order to achieve balance. Because vinaigrettes are unstable emulsions, they will separate if left to stand for any length of time. A vigorous shake in a lidded jar will re-emulsify a separated vinaigrette – a simpler solution than that needed for a split stable emulsion, such as mayonnaise.

Seasoning should be added at the start, so it will flavour the whole vinaigrette rather than being held in suspension in the emulsion. And, of course, it can be adjusted at the end.

French dressing

Makes 50-60ml

1 tbsp white wine vinegar
3-4 tbsp sunflower oil (see oils, below)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. A simple, classic dressing that, once mastered, can be adapted to suit whatever it is to be served with.

2. Put the vinegar, a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper in a small bowl. Whisk in the oil gradually to form an emulsion. Taste the dressing and adjust the seasoning as necessary.

Variations

Herb dressing: Whisk in 1 tsp finely chopped herbs, such as chives, parsley or basil.
Mustard dressing: Whisk in 1 tsp Dijon or wholegrain mustard.
Garlic dressing: Whisk in 1 crushed garlic clove.
Honey and mustard dressing: Whisk in 1 tsp clear honey and 1 tsp Dijon or wholegrain mustard.
Lemon, caper and parsley dressing: Replace the vinegar with 1 tbsp lemon juice and the finely grated zest of lemon. Add 1 tsp each of finely chopped capers and parsley.
​Hoisin dressing: Substitute groundnut oil for sunflower and rice wine vinegar for white wine vinegar. Whisk in 1 tsp hoisin sauce and 1 tsp crushed garlic.
​Miso dressing: Substitute groundnut oil for sunflower and rice wine vinegar for white wine. Whisk in 2 tsp white miso, 1 tbsp mirin (rice wine) and 1 tsp toasted sesame oil. Add 1 tsp finely grated ginger and 1 very finely chopped spring onion.
Ginger and soy dressing: Substitute groundnut oil for sunflower and rice wine vinegar for white wine vinegar. Add 1 tsp toasted sesame oil, 1 tsp finely grated ginger and its juice, 1 tsp soy sauce and 1 crushed garlic clove.

Vinaigrettes are generally unstable, which means that they separate on standing. Some ingredients, such as mustard, honey and seasoning, can temporarily emulsify a vinaigrette, while also enhancing the flavour.

Oils: For a simple dressing it is worth using an extra virgin olive oil for its flavour. However, if there are a lot of competing elements to the dish, you may want to use a milder, blended olive oil. Alternatively, try using more neutral oils such as sunflower, grapeseed, rapeseed or groundnut. When more strongly flavoured oils such as walnut or toasted sesame are used, they can be diluted by combining with a more neutral oil if desired.
Acidity: Vinegars are used to provide acidity in vinaigrettes and they vary greatly in smell and taste. Sherry vinegars are more robust than most wine vinegars and a good aged balsamic will provide sweetness as well as acidity. You can try substituting citrus juices but they will not be as acidic as vinegars, so use a ratio of 2 parts oil to 1 part citrus.
Flavouring ingredients: A variety of ingredients such as herbs, spices and mustards can be added to vinaigrettes to lend flavour and texture. Carefully consider the ingredients the dressing is being used for; it needs to complement and enhance the ingredients, not overpower or dominate.

Quick and easy to make, these sauces are either textured or blended until smooth. Made from fresh, generally raw ingredients, pestos and salsas provide a burst of flavour to accompany all manner of cooked meats, poultry, fish and vegetables, and of course pasta.

Basil pesto

Makes 150ml

2 garlic cloves
90g basil leaves and stalks
60g pine nuts
60g Parmesan cheese
125-150ml olive oil, depending on the consistency required
Salt

1. In a blender or small bowl of a food processor, whiz the garlic, basil and pine nuts together to a paste. You may need to add a little of the oil to help the blades puree the mixture. A little texture in pesto is desirable, so avoid blending the pesto to an overly smooth puree. Alternatively you can also use a pestle and mortar rather than a food processor to give an even more textured finish.

2. Finely grate the parmesan and add it to the blender. Pulse briefly to mix, then gradually pour in the oil with the motor running. Season with salt to taste. Transfer to a small bowl, cover and refrigerate until needed.

Variations

Parsley pesto:
Substitute roughly chopped parsley for the basil
​30g blanched almonds for the pine nuts, and strong cheddar for the parmesan.
 

Chilli and coriander pesto: Substitute coriander for the basil, and add 2 chopped green chillies to the mixture in step 1 of the main recipe. (The chilli seeds are optional, depending on heat required.) Whisk a little warm water or stock into the finished pesto to give a coating consistency sauce to serve with pan-fried fish.

Makes 150ml

Large bunch of flat-leaf parsley
Small bunch of mint
Small bunch of basil or tarragon
1 garlic clove
1 anchovy fillet
1 tbsp capers
1 tsp Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
About 75-100ml olive oil

1. Pick the herb leaves off the stalks and chop roughly. You will need about 4 tbsp parsley and 1-2 tbsp of a selection of the remaining herbs.

2. Peel and crush the garlic. Roughly chop the anchovy fillet. Rinse and drain the capers. Add these ingredients to the herbs.

3. Either chop the mixture further by hand (using a mezzaluna if you have one), or briefly pulse in a food processor. Don’t overprocess as the salsa needs to have some texture. Transfer to a small bowl if you have chopped the mixture by hand.

4. Stir in the mustard, season well with salt and pepper and then whisk or pulse in the olive oil. Salda verde is best used on the day it is made, but it can be kept in the fridge for a day or two. It is particularly good with grilled or barbecued meats or fish.

Makes 150ml

1 shallot
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
​Few basil sprigs
4 tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Halve, peel and finely chop the shallot. Put into a small bowl and mix in the vinegar, oil and a bashed basil stalk (to add flavour). Leave to stand for at least 10 minutes.

2. Plunge the tomatoes into boiling water for 10 seconds, then refresh in cold water, dry and peel. Quarter and deseed, then finely chop the tomatoes. Add them to the shallot mixture.

3. Finely julienne a few basil leaves and add to the bowl, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Just before serving, discard the bashed basil stalk.

Serves 4

1 ripe avocado
2 tbsp mayonnaise (see page 000)
1 lime
½ green chilli
½ bunch of coriander
1 tbsp olive oil
Salt, caster sugar and freshly ground
black pepper

1. Put the avocado flesh and mayonnaise in a blender. Finely grate the zest and juice the lime. Add half the zest and juice to the blender.

2. Deseed and roughly chop the chilli, roughly chop the coriander stalks (reserve the leaves for the salad) and add to the mixture with the olive oil. Blend until smooth.

3. Add more lime juice or water as required to make a light, coating consistency dressing. Season well with salt and pepper and a little sugar.

Serves 4

1/2 small red onion
2 unwaxed limes
1 tomato
1/2 red pepper
1 red chilli
¼ ripe pineapple
A few coriander sprigs
1-2 tbsp olive oil
Salt

1. Peel and finely dice the red onion and put into a bowl. Finely grate the zest from 1 lime and squeeze the juice from both fruit. Add the lime zest and half the juice to the onion, saving the remainder for seasoning at the end.

2. Plunge the tomato into boiling water for 10 seconds, then refresh in cold water, dry and peel (or leave the skin on if you prefer). Quarter and deseed the tomato, then finely dice.

3. Using a swivel vegetable peeler, peel the red pepper and finely dice it. Deseed and finely chop the chilli. (For a deeper, more intense flavour, you can lightly blister the chilli over the gas flame first.

4. Peel, core and finely dice the pineapple and coarsely chop the coriander leaves.

5. Stir the tomato, pepper, chilli, pineapple and coriander into the onion and lime mixture. Stir in the oil and season well with salt and more lime juice, if necessary. Leave to stand for 30 minutes to allow the flavours to develop.

Variation

Avocado and black bean salsa: Omit the tomato, red pepper and pineapple, and add 1 ripe but firm avocado, cut into even dice, half a 400g tin of drained, rinsed black beans and 1 thinly sliced spring onion.

The natural acidity and texture of tomatoes make them ideal in sauces. All cooked tomato sauces should be rich in colour, full flavoured and have a good balance of acidity and sweetness. They freeze well, so it is worth making double the quantity and freezing half. When using tinned tomatoes, add a pinch of sugar to counteract any ‘tinny’ flavour and help balance the acidity.

Quick fresh tomato sauce

Makes 500ml

1 onion
2 garlic cloves

10 very ripe tomatoes
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp tomato puree
1 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Halve, peel and finely dice the onion. Peel and crush the garlic. Plunge the tomatoes into boiling water for 10 seconds, then refresh in cold water, dry and peel. Quarter and deseed, then roughly chop the tomatoes.

2. Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the onion and soften over a low to medium heat for 5–10 minutes, without colouring. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Now add the tomatoes with the tomato puree, sugar, thyme and some seasoning.

3. Increase the heat and cook at a brisk simmer for 10–15 minutes, to drive off any water released by the tomatoes. The sauce is then ready to use.

Variations

Tomato and herb sauce: Use different herbs, such as dried oregano or marjoram, or fresh basil or chives, depending on how you plan to use the sauce.
Tomato and chilli sauce: Add 1 finely diced red chilli when you add the garlic. In the absence of fresh chilli, use a good pinch of crushed dried chillies instead, but beware of the highly concentrated heat of dried chillies.

Makes about 600ml

1 onion
2 tbsp olive oil
3-4 garlic cloves
2 x 400g tins plum tomatoes
2 tbsp tomato puree
1-1½ tsp dried oregano
1 tsp dried basil
1 bay leaf
2 tsp sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Halve, peel and finely dice the onion. Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the onion, cover and sweat until soft but not coloured. Peel and crush the garlic, add to the onion and cook for 1 minute.

2. Coarsely chop the tomatoes. Add them and their juice to the pan, with the tomato pure, oregano, basil, bay leaf and sugar. Season with a little salt and pepper and bring to the boil, then turn down the heat to low to medium and simmer gently for 50–60 minutes until reduced to a thick puree.

3. Remove the bay leaf. Taste and adjust the seasoning. The sauce can be left textured or it can be pureed to a smooth consistency, depending on use.

Variations

Roasted tomato sauce: Substitute slow-roasted tomatoes for tinned: cut 1kg ripe tomatoes in half and place in a shallow roasting tin. Scatter over 5 diced shallots, 3 crushed garlic cloves, a few thyme sprigs and 75ml olive oil, Slow-roast in an oven preheated to 120C / gas mark 1 for 3-4 hours. Pick off the tomato skins and discard the thyme. The shallots and garlic can be included in the sauce.
Roasted tomato and red pepper sauce: Add 2 roasted, skinned, deseeded and finely diced peppers to the roasted tomato sauce variation

‘Leiths How to Cook’ by Leiths School of Food and Wine (Quadrille, £30) Photography © Peter Cassidy