‘I Love India’: three meat-free recipes

A thoran is a simple stir-fry from the south of India, with mustard seed, curry leaves, shallots, cumin and fresh coconut. It is a typical vegetable side dish served in Kerala, especially on feast days as part of a banana-leaf-laden offering. This is a fairly typical recipe. Beetroot is a local vegetable they love to cook in this way. I have added the chard as I love the texture and earthiness it brings to the dish, and it feels virtuous with it. You can vary this recipe with a host of other vegetables and greens and, in fact, they also make thorans from leftover red meat and chicken, so you can add some of that in as well. I also often add a can of chickpeas if I am serving this as a main course, as the earthiness and mealiness work really well with these flavours. It is also a lovely side dish to serve with a lentil curry, grilled meats or Tamil-style lemon rice. Serves 4-6

2 tbsp coconut oil
¾ tsp brown mustard seeds
2 tsp urad dal (split and skinned black lentils), if you have them
2-4 dried chillies
20 fresh curry leaves
500g raw beetroots (beets), peeled and chopped into 
1cm cubes salt 
2 small shallots, or ½ red onion, quartered 
80g grated fresh coconut, plus more to serve 
1 tsp cumin seeds
18g finely chopped root ginger (peeled weight)
1 large garlic clove
14 large stems of ruby or rainbow chard, leaves shredded, tender stems sliced 

Heat the oil in a non-stick saucepan over a medium heat. Add the mustard seeds, lentils and dried chillies and reduce the heat. Once the popping of the mustard seeds starts to subside and the lentils have turned a light golden, add the curry leaves. Follow 5 seconds later with the chopped beetroot and some salt. Stir well for a few minutes, then reduce the heat.

Cover and cook for 18-20 minutes, or until beginning to soften (it depends on how large the beetroot was chopped). Meanwhile blend together the shallots or onion, coconut, cumin, ginger and garlic without any water. It will form a coarse paste.

Add the paste to the beetroot and cook gently for 5-6 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add the chard. Cook for another 3-4 minutes or until the whole thing is done. Taste and adjust the seasoning, sprinkle with the extra coconut and serve.

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Biryani is one of India’s most elegant and elaborate party dishes and Hyderabad is well known for its meaty version. The original biryani was made with lamb but this soon extended to chicken when it gained popularity (much later), or seafood in coastal regions. Vegetarian biryanis were created for impoverished royalty in some states, but also to cater for India’s millions of vegetarians. This version is as delicate as any other biryani, where the rice is as important as the protein. Serve with a raita and, if you want, a vegetable side dish. I like to serve this with pan-fried aubergines with seasoned Greek yogurt and topped with pomegranate seeds, coriander and mint leaves. Serves 6

For the rice

400g basmati rice vegetable oil, as needed
2 tbsp ghee
5 cloves 
5 green cardamom pods
2.5cm cinnamon stick
1 dried bay leaf
2 small onions, thinly sliced
Salt
750ml water 

For the chickpeas

2 medium tomatoes, roughly chopped
4 tbsp plain yoghurt
2 small onions, finely chopped
1 good tsp finely grated root ginger 
4 large garlic cloves, finely grated
¼-½ tsp chilli powder
2 tsp ground coriander
2 tsp ground cumin 
½ tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp garam masala
2 x 400g  cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
3 tbsp chopped mint leaves
3 tbsp chopped coriander  

To finish

Large pinch of saffron threads
4 tbsp hot milk
20g unsalted butter, cubed
Large handful of store-bought crispy fried onions and chopped coriander, to serve 

Put the saffron in a small cup with the milk and soak while you get on with the dish. Make the rice. Wash it really well in several changes of water, or until the water runs clear. Leave to soak.

Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil and the ghee in a large, heavy-based, lidded pan. Add the whole spices and bay leaf and cook for 30 seconds or until aromatic. Add the onions and 1⁄2 tbsp salt and cook until soft, stirring occasionally, then increase the heat and cook until golden. Drain the rice and add it to the golden onions. Stir well over a high heat to dry off any water and coat the rice in the oil for 2-3 minutes. Pour in the measured water, taste and season well. The water should taste a little salty, or the rice will be a bit flavourless. Bring to the boil, then cover and reduce the heat right down. Cook undisturbed for 6 minutes, then taste a grain: it should be nearly or just done. Take off the heat and set aside, covered, for 5 minutes. Spoon on to a large plate so it doesn’t overcook. Set the pan aside for the final assembly.

For the chickpeas, blend together the tomatoes and yoghurt. Heat 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a large pan. Add the onions with a good pinch of salt and cook until really soft, then increase the heat and cook until properly golden. Add the ginger and garlic and cook gently for 40-50 seconds. Add the ground spices and a splash of water and cook until the water has evaporated. Add the blended tomato mix and cook over a high-ish flame, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes to the boil and then reduces to a thick paste. Reduce the heat a little and cook until the paste darkens. Add the chickpeas and enough water to come halfway up to them. Return to the boil, taste and adjust the salt. Simmer for 5-6 minutes. Add the mint and coriander, and season for a final time. There should be some liquid in the pan; if not, add a little boiling water, or reduce if needed, until you have a watery curry.

To finish, place half the butter cubes in the pan. Cover with half the rice, then drizzle with half the saffron milk. Pour over the chickpea masala and top with the remaining rice, saffron and butter. Cover tightly with a lid and cook over a really low heat for 20-25 minutes or until steaming. Scatter with crispy onions and coriander.

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A kadhai is both a type of restaurant dish and also a cooking pot, similar to a wok but with rounded sides. It is a really useful pot as it allows you to stir-fry with without worrying about bothersome edges, but also to cook a curry and do everything else you need in an Indian kitchen. The word kadhai also refers to the dish’s style and the spice combination. This is a delicious and versatile sauce to have with any protein, but also works really well with vegetables, and is one of the dishes I order for my vegetarian husband in Indian restaurants in India. Delicious with Indian breads, naan or flaky malabar paratha.

Serves 4

For the kadhai masala

1 tbsp coriander seeds
¾ tsp cumin seeds
1-2 Kashmiri dried chillies (these are mild, if you don’t have them, use 1 red chilli, or give them a miss) 
8 black peppercorns 

For the sauce

4 tbsp vegetable oil 1 large onion, finely chopped
5g finely grated root ginger, peeled weight
3 large garlic cloves, finely grated
3 medium-large tomatoes, blended until smooth
½ tsp ground turmeric salt
½ tsp garam masala
1 tsp dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between fingers
2-3 tbsp single cream
3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves, to serve 

For the vegetables (this is the classic version, but vary them as you like)

1 potato, cut into 2cm pieces
1 small carrot, cut into half moons
100g 3-4cm cauliflower florets
480ml (2 cups) boiling water
100g frozen peas, defrosted 

In a small frying pan, gently dry-roast the spices for the kadhai masala, stirring often to avoid any burning. Once the coriander seeds have coloured a little, pour everything into a spice blender and grind to a fine – or even slightly coarse – powder.

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Heat the oil in a large non-stick saucepan, add the onion and cook until golden on the edges. Add the ginger and garlic and sauté for 1 minute or until they smell cooked. Add the blended tomatoes, turmeric and salt and cook over a medium-high heat until the mixture completely reduces and releases oil back into the pan.

Stir in the potato and carrot, cover and cook gently for 5 minutes. Add the cauliflower and boiling water and return to the boil. Cover and cook for another 15 minutes or until the vegetables are just cooked, adding the peas for the last couple of minutes.

Add the garam masala and fenugreek leaves to the pan and give it a stir. Take it off the heat and sprinkle over and shake in the cream and coriander. Taste and adjust seasoning and serve.

‘I Love India’ by Anjum Anand in published by Quadrille (£20). Photograph © Martin Poole