Good Better Green recipes: Healthy meals for January

Smoked mackerel and watercress mousse

Serve this as an indulgent appetiser on Watercress Oat Cakes, or as first course or light lunch with wafer-thin toasted sourdough and the Sea Vegetable Salad.

Makes 375ml

50g watercress, stalks and leaves, plus a few sprigs to decorate
​100g smoked mackerel
​60ml sour cream
60ml horseradish sauce
Enough powdered or leaf gelatine to set 250ml liquid (about 1½ teaspoons powdered or 3 gelatine leaves), or 1½ tablespoons agar agar flakes
​80ml fish or vegetable stock
60ml white wine (or more stock)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Lemon wedges, to serve

Using cling film, line a mini loaf tin or a mould that will hold 375ml liquid, making sure the cling film hangs over the sides (to help unmould the mousse). Blitz the watercress in a food processor until fine, then add the smoked mackerel and pulse a few times until roughly chopped. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the sour cream and horseradish sauce. Season with a little salt and plenty of pepper, and set aside.

If using powdered gelatine, whisk the granules into the stock and wine in a small saucepan and allow to soften for 1 minute. Gently heat over a low heat until all the granules have dissolved. Set aside to cool slightly before stirring into the fish and cream mixture. If using leaf gelatine, submerge the leaves in a bowl of room temperature water and allow to soften for 4–5 minutes.

Meanwhile, gently heat the stock and wine in a small pan over a low heat. Drain the softened gelatine sheets, squeeze out the excess water, add to the warm liquid and whisk until fully dissolved. Set aside to cool slightly before stirring into the fish and cream mixture. If using agar, slowly bring the stock and wine to the boil in a pan with the agar, whisking continuously. If you heat it too rapidly, the agar will form little beads of hard gel. Once the flakes have completely dissolved, remove from the heat and allow to cool only slightly before stirring into the fish mixture.

Adjust the seasoning, bearing in mind that jelling and refrigeration tend to tone flavours down. Scrape the mixture into the prepared mould, then refrigerate until firm, for at least four hours. When the mousse has set, lift it out of the mould with the help of the cling film. Place a serving plate face down on the mousse, then flip both over and remove the cling film. Serve with lemon wedges and a few watercress sprigs.

open image in gallery

Watercress, pea and sweetcorn soup with mint and onion popcorn

This is one of my absolute favourites, with the mountain of white popcorn gloriously set off against the greenest of greens.

Serves 4

Butter, ghee or olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
​2 celery stalks (about 120g trimmed weight), roughly chopped
1 large garlic clove, chopped
​110g peas, fresh or frozen
1 ear of sweetcorn, kernels sliced off
​125g yellow split peas, rinsed
625-750ml vegetable stock
200g watercress, leaves and stalks
​375ml full-cream milk or milk substitute, such as almond or coconut milk
Large handful of mint leaves
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the popcorn

1½ teaspoons coconut or rapeseed oil, or butter
40g popping corn, preferably organic
2 teaspoons melted butter
Pinch of sea salt
1 teaspoon finely shredded mint leaves, plus extra to serve
½ teaspoon dried garlic powder or granules

Heat a tiny bit of butter, ghee or olive oil in a saucepan and gently sweat the onion with a large pinch of salt until soft and translucent. Add the celery and cook for another few minutes before adding the garlic. Cook for another minute or so, then add half the peas and half the sweetcorn kernels, with the split peas and stock. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 20-25 minutes, until the split peas are tender.

While the soup is cooking, make the popcorn. Heat the oil or butter in a deep saucepan and scatter the popcorn over the base. Cover with a lid and wait for a few minutes until they start to pop. Meanwhile, mix together the melted butter, salt, mint and garlic powder. As soon as the popping has slowed down significantly, pour this mixture over the popcorn. Remove from the heat, cover with the lid and give the pan a few good shakes. Set aside.

As soon as the split peas are tender, add the watercress and cook just until the leaves wilt. Remove from the heat and add the milk and mint leaves. Blend until smooth, then return to the pan, stir in the remaining peas and sweetcorn and season with salt and pepper. Reheat briefly and gently before serving. Serve the soup in bowls topped with a mound of popcorn, some shredded mint and the remaining spice crumbs from the bottom of the popcorn pan. Don’t stir the popcorn into the soup as you eat it, as it will turn soggy and not be nearly as much fun to eat.

open image in gallery

Curried runner bean "tagliatelle"

Inspired by one of my favourite cuisines (Indian) and people (chef Rich LaMarita), this is a characterful side dish for when you need to add some pizzazz to a meal. Fresh curry leaves are now available at most major supermarkets and ethnic grocers.

Serves 4

450g runner beans, sliced lengthways using a bean slicer, or in thirds lengthways using a sharp knife, any strings removed
1 tablespoon coconut oil
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon black onion seeds (also called kalonji, nigella, black caraway and black cumin seeds)
10-20 fresh curry leaves, depending on size
2 small or 1 large echalion (banana) shallots, halved lengthways and sliced into half moons
1 tablespoon grated peeled ginger
1 garlic clove, mashed to a pulp with some coarse sea salt, using a pestle and mortar
1 red chilli, finely chopped (seeds and membranes removed if you prefer it less spicy)
2 tablespoons creamed coconut (also called coconut manna or coconut butter)
 

Steam the beans (or boil in very little water) for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender and no longer crunchy.
Refresh under cold running water.

While the beans are steaming, heat the coconut oil in a saucepan large enough to hold the beans, until hot but not smoking. Add the mustard seeds and cook until they just start to pop. Add the cumin and black onion seeds and fry until fragrant. Be careful not to let the spices burn, as they will taste bitter. While the oil is still very hot, add the curry leaves.

They should crackle almost immediately. Add the shallot and sauté for a few minutes before adding the ginger, garlic and chilli. After a minute or so, add the cooked beans and creamed coconut and stir until the coconut has melted. Season to taste and serve.

Extracts from Good Better Green by Zita Steyn (Quadrille, £16.99) Photography by Nassima Rothacker