Food & Drink: A guide to the red guide

MICHELIN did not set out to produce a food guide. Its unrivalled stature in the catering trade is almost accidental.

The first Michelin guides, tiny blue books with maps and town plans, appeared in 1911, trinkets from the dawn of the motoring age. Then, after the First World War, the growing map-and-guide department issued Illustrated Guides to the Battlefields of 1914-18.

The red books, those cryptic hotel and restaurant guides, were not published on these shores until 1974. So it has been for a mere 19 years that an anonymous inspectorate has issued annual editions in Britain.

Their maps receive universal acclaim. Their hotel listings are comprehensive and useful for those in search of a bed and trouser press. But it is the catering industry that accords Michelin its status.

One of Britain's leading chefs, Nico Ladenis, calls it 'the most prestigious guide we have'. Ironically, Michelin's potent little awards are made not for the trade that prizes them, but for the consumer, who has a hard time understanding them.

A precursor of the ecu, Michelin symbols were fashioned as much for economy as for universality. Europeans, having heeded the forewords in English, French, Italian and German, could arguably all understand and use the British guide.

However, they would have to adapt to its quirks. It might seem logical that a line of knife and fork symbols, from one to five, would symbolise good cooking. It does not. Michelin uses these, in black and white, to indicate luxury and comfort. If in red, they will indicate 'pleasant restaurants'. The more the better in each case.

The potent symbols, however, are the stars and red Ms, used to rate restaurants. Here are the symbols and meanings (in English) given by Michelin:

STARS

*** Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey. Superb food, fine wines, faultless service, elegant surroundings. One will pay accordingly]

** Excellent cooking, worth a detour. Specialities and wines of first-class quality. This will be reflected in the price.

* Indicates a good place to stop on your journey. But beware of comparing the star given to an expensive 'de luxe' establishment to that of a simple restaurant where you can appreciate fine cooking at a reasonable price.

RED 'M'

While appreciating the quality of the cooking in restaurants with a star, you may, however, wish to find places serving a perhaps less elaborate but none the less always carefully prepared meal. Certain restaurants seem to us to answer this requirement. We bring them to your attention by marking them with a red M in the text of the guide.