Rich pickings: Skye Gyngell's basil recipes

The sweet, heady aniseed smell of basil is one of my favourite things. Its smell is so beautiful, pungent and extraordinary that each and every time it takes me by surprise; breathing in its intoxicating fragrance always makes me feel happy.

Although its scent is strong, the flavour of basil is quite gentle, and does not stand up well to long, slow cooking – somehow it gets lost among the other flavours in the pot and disappears to almost nothing. Basil is best stirred in right at the very end of cooking just before serving your dish. Its leaves also bruise easily when cut with a knife; tearing them gently with your fingers is preferable.

Basil has a natural affinity with perfectly ripe tomatoes as well as extra-virgin olive oil – a classic combination – but it also goes well with aubergines, pine nuts, a young Parmesan, walnuts and courgettes.

We grow three or four types of basil at Petersham, but there are over 40 known varieties. One of my favourites is basilico Genovese, which has smaller pale leaves, but a strong and vibrant flavour. This is classically grown in Liguria and used in pesto, which also originates from the region, and, to my mind, the best pestos are made using this variety along with the small, creamy, fat pine nuts from the same region, plus pecorino (as opposed to Parmesan) and the beautiful olive oil from Liguria – try it if you are ever in Genoa; you will notice the difference.

We also grow two other varieties: green ruffled basil and the delicate and easily bruised purple ruffle basil, the leaves of which look almost like lace. Both have a more pronounced flavour of aniseed than the larger-leafed smooth green variety; they are delicious with grilled fish, or with fresh and finely sliced raw fish, such as sea bass, and a good glug of fruity extra-virgin olive oil.

Basil is also a favourite flavouring in Southeast Asian cooking, which uses two different varieties: sweet and holy basil. Their flavours are similar but more assertive than the basil we find in Europe.

I'd be hard pushed to choose a favourite herb – but basil would come close.

Skye Gyngell is head chef at Petersham Nurseries, Church Lane, Richmond, Surrey, tel: 020 8605 3627

Basil oil

This sludgy, verdant sauce lends a vibrancy to many of the dishes I cook. Its flavour is clean and punchy, and it helps the ingredients in many dishes really sing. Makes enough for a medium-sized jam jar 3 large bunches basil

1 garlic clove
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
200ml/7fl oz extra-virgin olive oil

Pull the basil leaves from their stalks and put them in a food processor with the garlic and a good pinch each of salt and pepper. Process until the basil is finely chopped. With the motor running, slowly trickle in the oil and continue to blend until you have a beautiful moss-green purée. Leave to stand for a few minutes, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Pour into a jar, cover and refrigerate until ready to use. This oil will keep well in the fridge for up to a week.

Soupe au pistou

This soup originates from the South of France and the pistou is a close relative of pesto – though it does not contain Parmesan and can be found without pine nuts. Stirred into a thick vegetable soup, it adds a heart-warming vibrancy.

Serves 4

For the pistou

3 cloves garlic
1 large bunch of basil
4tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

For the soup

1 onion, peeled and sliced
3 tbsp olive oil
2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped
11/2 litres/21/2 pints cold water
2 potatoes, peeled and diced into 1cm cubes
2 leeks, finely sliced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
1 cup cooked cannellini beans
2 courgettes, diced
200g/7oz green beans, chopped into 5cm lengths
Salt and freshly ground pepper

For the pistou, crush the garlic and basil to a paste in a mortar and pestle. Slowly add the olive oil and work it in well. Set aside.

Now, in a large saucepan sauté the onion in olive oil until softened. Add a pinch of salt and the tomatoes and sauté for five minutes, then add the water and bring to a simmer. Add the potatoes, leeks, carrots and cannellini beans and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the courgettes and green beans and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add enough salt and freshly ground pepper to bring the flavours together – bearing in mind that the pistou will give this soup an added excitement.

Ladle the soup into warm bowls and spoon the pistou into the centre, stir in a little and add freshly grated Parmesan just before serving.

A salad of mozzarella, tomato and basil

This is a classic salad and almost not a recipe at all, but I have included it as when all the ingredients are in season it is hard to beat: cool, clean and fresh.

Serves 4

4 ripe tomatoes
Allow one buffalo mozzarella (100-120g) per person
1 bunch of purple or green basil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
80ml/3fl oz extra-virgin olive oil

Slice the tomatoes and arrange them on a plate. Tear the mozzarella in half using your fingers and arrange on top of the tomatoes. Gently tear the basil leaves with your hands and arrange on top. Season and finish with the olive oil. Serve at once.

Scallops with basil, mint and anchovy dressing

This is a lovely, simple dressing that works wonderfully with sweet hot scallops. At Petersham we also spoon it over warm wild salmon. I'm sure it would be good with almost anything – grilled sea bass, halibut or even roasted guinea fowl.

Serves 4

For the dressing

1 fresh red chilli, seeds removed and finely chopped
1 bunch of basil, leaves only
1 bunch of mint, leaves only
4 fillets good-quality anchovies
1tbsp red-wine vinegar
A squeeze of lemon juice
A pinch of sea salt
100ml/31/2fl oz extra-virgin olive oil

For the scallops

20 scallops
1tbsp olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
The juice of half a lemon

For the dressing, place the chopped chilli in a bowl. Place the basil and mint leaves in a pestle and mortar along with the anchovies and pound to a paste. Add the vinegar and stir well; squeeze over the lemon juice and add the salt. Finally, stir in the olive oil. Add this mixture to the chillis and stir well to combine. Set aside.

Now, place a non-stick frying pan over a medium to high heat and add the oil. Season the scallops on both sides with the salt and pepper. When the pan is hot, add the scallops and cook for a minute and a half, turning halfway through. They should be golden-brown and tender. Remove from the heat and squeeze over the lemon juice. Divide the scallops among four plates and generously drizzle over the sauce. Serve immediately.

The Forager by Wendy Fogarty

Petersham's food sourcer on the best ways to grow, pick and store basil...

Seeds/plants

You can buy several types of basil plant, including Alpine basil, basil thyme, basil mint, sweet basil, purple basil and holy basil from Jekka's Herb Farm ( www.jekkasherbfarm.com). Crocus sells basil as part of its ready-to-plant organic herb gardens ( www.crocus.co.uk), while Seeds of Italy, available from specialist nurseries (including Petersham), sells six varieties, including piccolo foglie, violetto aromatico and classic Italiano – or Genovese basil ( www.seedsofitaly.com).

Growing and picking

Basil loves sun and water. Pick leaves from the top and cut off the flowers as they begin to bud to foster regrowth.

Storage

Basil bruises easily so take care when preserving. Its leaves can be stored in bags in the freezer or preserved by layering it in jars, sprinkled with salt and covered in extra-virgin olive oil and then stored in a cool, dark place or in the fridge.