Food Of The Week: Fine Italian dining options

There's more to Italy's cuisine than tomatoes and olive oil, says Andy Lynes

Saturday 04 March 2006 20:00 EST
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Italian food has the reputation of being less creative and complex than French cuisine. But as any real foodie will tell you, the Italians taught the French to cook. In the 16th century, Florentine princess Catherine de Medicis brought a band of Italian chefs with her when she married into French royalty, which some historians claim had a profound influence on French food. Whatever the truth, there is plenty of evidence in Italy's current restaurant scene that there's more to the country's cuisine than tomatoes and olive oil.

Admire the Chianti countryside from the terrace of Arnolfo, Via XX Settembre 50, Colle di Val d'Elsa, Siena (00 39 0577 920 549; arnolfo.com), while tucking into a plate of pigeon with hazelnut, fig and vin santo with a glass of wine from the cellar of 8,000 bottles.

The chefs Alfonso and Ernesto Iaccarino update traditional Campania regional cookery at Don Alfonso 1890, corso Sant' Agata, 11, Sant' Agata sui due Golfi (00 39 0818 780 026; donalfonso.it) with seasonal dishes like red mullet with rosemary and cucumber.

Michelin-starred chef Gualtiero Marchesi is still at the forefront of the Italian restaurant scene despite being more than 70. The saffron risotto served at his eponymous restaurant at Via Vittorio Emanuele 23, Erbusco, Brescia (00 39 0307 760 562; marchesi.it) is decorated with edible gold leaf.

You'll need to book ahead if you want to dine at the weekend at 'Gusto, Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, Rome (00 39 063 226 273; gusto.it), Rome's first Conran-style "gastrodrome" incorporating a pizzeria, restaurant, winebar and foodie shopping opportunities.

Massimiliano Alajmo was just 28 when he won three Michelin stars in 2002 for Le Calandre, Via Liguria 1, 35030, Sarmeola di Rubano (00 39 049 630 303; calandre.com).

You can count the calories and still enjoy delicious creations such as tagliolini with young squid, basil, and red turnip cream at Paolo Teverini, Piazza Dante 2, Bagno di Romagna (00 39 0543 911 260; paoloteverini.it). More carefree diners can indulge in a terrine of Armagnac foie gras in a crunchy mango millefeuille.

Imaginative and rich pasta dishes such as hand-made garganelli with lobster, peanuts and zucchini flowers in a crustacean sauce have secured Enoteca Pinchiorri, Via Ghibellina 87, Florence (00 39 055 242 777; enotecapinchiorri.com) its reputation as one of Italy's best restaurants.

Chefs travel from all over the world to try Nadia Santini's modernised versions of traditional family recipes such as Tortelli di Zucca at Dal Pescatore, Runate, Canneto sull'Oglio, Mantova (00 39 0376 723 001; dalpescatore.com).

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