Counter culture
For every dish there's a gizmo. But which ones do you really use? Ex-chef Sybil Kapoor cuts out the gimmicks and picks the kit that no cook worth their salt should be without
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Your support makes all the difference.Buying kitchen equipment is like shopping for clothes - what you choose is a projection of who you are. And just as your wardrobe changes with you, so a few basic basics evolve into a batterie de cuisine as you experiment and develop your cooking skills. You start to realise why some pans are so cheap, and you even find yourself wandering aisles of ice-cream makers and pasta machines. But you need to choose carefully. You need a guide. A few reasonably priced, carefully selected utensils will enhance both the quality of your food and the sensation of cooking.
Buying kitchen equipment is like shopping for clothes - what you choose is a projection of who you are. And just as your wardrobe changes with you, so a few basic basics evolve into a batterie de cuisine as you experiment and develop your cooking skills. You start to realise why some pans are so cheap, and you even find yourself wandering aisles of ice-cream makers and pasta machines. But you need to choose carefully. You need a guide. A few reasonably priced, carefully selected utensils will enhance both the quality of your food and the sensation of cooking.
Those keen on baking are tempted by non-stick spring-form cake tins, sugar thermometers, palette knives and such like. Meat-and-two-veg cooks search for the perfect carving knife, vegetable steamer and a roasting tray that doesn't warp on the hob (go for Mermaid). We all have obsessions, but the items shown here would be at home in the kitchen of any aspiring cook.
Of course, looks are important but don't be swayed too much by fads, gizmos and gadgets. As with clothes, appearance is important but each item should fit perfectly and feel gorgeous. Always insist on handling everything you intend to buy. Whisks, for example, should fit snugly into the hand; knives and pans should feel properly weighted. And make sure most of what you buy can go in the dishwasher - even if you don't have one now, you may one day. After all, how often do you wear clothes that are hand-wash-only? *
In the pan
Bourgeat pans, £39.95 to £89.95, from Divertimenti, tel: 020 7935 0689, www.divertimenti.co.uk
No namby-pamby saucepans here, only the intense pleasure of handling the very best. Bourgeat pans have aluminium bases which conduct heat beautifully, stainless-steel bodies and hollow handles that stay cool - and the lids clunk on in a delicious manner. Plus, you can put them in the dishwasher.
Sharp practice
Yoshikin Global, from £21 , and Wusthof Grand Prix, from £22, from John Lewis, tel: 0845 604 9049
Knives should feel good to use - and that depends on how big and strong your hands are. The two best brands are Global, which are sexy and sharp as Samurai swords, and Wusthof Grand Prix, traditional-looking, with properly rivetted handles. Both are perfectly balanced - best try both before you buy.
Spinning class
Culinaire salad spinner, £3.95, from John Lewis, as before
Having spent years struggling to dry salad leaves in tea towels, I now wonder why I didn't just spend £3.95 on a spinner. You can use it for herbs, chipped potatoes and vegetable crisps too, rinsing them in the inner colander, then drying to perfection in the spinner. Watery salads, spitting chips and soggy chopped herbs are a thing of the past.
Burn, baby, burn
Kitchen Craft Cook's Blowtorch with Piezo spark ignition, £16.75, from John Lewis, as before
Gone are the days when chefs used to caramelise their crème brûlées with big builders' blowtorches. Now you can buy dinky little soft-grip versions that are neatly lit with an ignition button. And you can caramelise all sorts of things with it - such as sugared lemons. My new favourite toy.
Aah, fresh sheets
Imperia pasta machine, £29.75, from John Lewis, as before
A small version of a professional pasta machine - using it can be as soothing as rhythmically kneading bread dough. The rollers have plenty of settings so you can make it ultra-thin. The chrome-plated Imperia has to be clipped on to a work surface, but the rest is effortless - the attachment will cut the sheet into tagliatelle, fettuccine or even ravioli. A well-built, beautiful Italian classic.
Grater good
Microplane, £35, from Divertimenti, as before
First, a warning: when you're using a Microplane, mind your fingers. This company started out making woodwork tools; now it does this kitchen essential. It comes with a handle and two changeable blades (ultra-fine and coarse), each covered in razor-sharp teeth. Spare your finger-tips - it's better to use it on Parmesan, red onion, lemon zest... the list goes on and on.
Spice route
Krups 75 coffee grinder, £19.95, from John Lewis, as before
Anyone who loves cooking with spices needs a coffee grinder. Pestle and mortars may be beautiful but grinders are much faster. Always choose a wide blade for extra strength and don't use for coffee beans - unless you like spicy coffee. This one's well priced.
Stack it and see
Three steamers plus lid, £15.25, from www.thecookingshop.com
It is hard to resist buying bamboo steamers - they looks so chic and are brilliant for vegetables, fish and wontons. Ken Hom reckons a 25cm (10in) width is best for home use. If you're near a Chinatown, you'll got them there for a few pounds.
Set in its ways
Aspic star mould, £2,50, from Divertimenti, tel: 020 7935 0689, www.divertimenti.co.uk
Every kitchen should have a few little knick-knacks for playing about with and creating a stir at dinner parties. My current favourites are these little star jelly moulds. A translucent home-made lemon and rose jelly looks beautiful when turned out from one and served with a scattering of fresh rose petals.
Weigh to go
Salter 1004 scales, £39.99, from Argos, tel: 0870 600 3030
Traditional models using balance and weights have a certain charm but these sleek digital scales are so much easier to use. They work in imperial and metric, so you can use old and new recipes, and the flat base means you can use any container on top. They're easier to clean too, and have a 5kg (11lb) capacity.
The big freeze
Gelato Chef 2200 ice-cream maker, £285, from Selfridges, tel: 08708 377 377
There is only one ice-cream machine as far as I am concerned. Unlike other models, the Gelato Chef 2200 has its own in-built compressor which, at the flick of a switch, will churn and freeze your home-made ice-cream or sorbet to professional standard in 20 minutes. If you're looking for a summer splurge, you just found it.
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