Back to my roots: Skye Gyngell serves up earthy autumn vegetable dishes

Summer has very definitely faded into autumn and the strong, bright, punchy vegetables and fruit of the sunny season have been replaced by gentler, more earthy flavours – apples, pears, quince, brassicas and roots.

I love the produce at this time of year and although I am sad to say goodbye to the food that the stronger sun provides, the sweet subtlety of vegetables grown now are just as exciting. Here are a few ways that root veggies can be used – wonderfully, all these recipes can be made in advance and gently reheated.

Skye Gyngell is head chef at Petersham Nurseries, Church Lane, Richmond, Surrey, tel: 020 8605 3627, www.petershamnurseries.com

Glazed carrots

This method of cooking carrots is known as Vichy in French – which essentially means they are cooked in both butter and sugar until tender and beautifully glazed. However, I prefer to use honey in smaller quantities than the sugar normally called for – it has a greater complexity of flavour and is less cloyingly sweet. Added herbs are lovely as well. These little carrots are perfect with roast lamb.

Serves 6

1 kg/2lb small carrots
1 tbsp honey
45g/11/2oz unsalted butter
1 small bunch of lemon thyme or thyme
Sea salt and black pepper

Carrots are so sweet and tender at this time of year that I don't bother to peel them – just give them a good scrub under cold running water. Trim the tops and leave whole if possible. Place in a saucepan large enough to hold the carrots comfortably and add enough water to just cover them. Add the honey, herbs, butter and a little salt and place over a medium heat. Bring to just under a boil and cook, stirring from time to time, until the carrots are tender and one tablespoon of liquid or so is left. The carrots should be gloriously glazed and gently sweet.

Beetroot and tomato purée

Generally I don't like the term purée – it sounds to me like a term for French baby food. It also reminds me too much of food from the 1980s – bland and softly textured – but I can think of no word to replace it here. This sweet, surprisingly delicate combination is just that. It works beautifully with autumn's game birds.

Serves 8

1kg/2lb ripe tomatoes – they are still just about in season
1kg/2lb small young beetroots
60g/21/2oz unsalted butter
1 tbsp crème fraîche
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Scrub the beetroots well and place in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover. Add a good pinch of salt and place over a medium heat. When the water comes to a boil, turn down the heat very slightly and simmer until the beets are tender. This will take approximately 45 minutes.

While they are cooking, preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas4. Slice the tomatoes in half and lay on a roasting tray. Season generously with salt and pepper and place on the middle shelf of the oven. Roast for 15 minutes; the tomatoes will be soft and steaming. Set aside and allow to cool.

When the beetroots are tender, remove from the heat and drain. Allow to sit until they are cool enough to handle, then slip their skins off using your fingers. Place both vegetables into a food processor and process until you have a soft purée. Now add the butter, the crème fraîche, a good pinch of salt and plenty of black pepper. Purée once more. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. This purée can be gently warmed through on the hob.

Leeks poached with butter

I have made this lovely, sweet vegetable dish in the autumn for almost as long as I can remember. It originally comes from a book by Marcella Hazan – a truly wonderful Italian cookery writer. These leeks are perhaps the most delicious thing in the whole world when accompanied by a simply roasted chicken – but they are also very good with pork or slow-cooked lamb. Use leeks that are small and firm for their size.

Serves 6

6 small young leeks
1 bunch of thyme
50g/2oz unsalted butter
100g,31/2oz grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper

Leeks need to be well cleaned as they tend to hold a lot of dirt right down to their root. Using a sharp knife, slice most of the green leaves off the top of the leeks, slice into quarters lengthwise and wash well under running water.

Place the washed leeks into a pan along with the butter and add just enough water to cover. Add the branches of thyme and a pinch of salt. Place over a medium heat, cover with a lid and cook for 5 minutes.

Now remove the lid, turn up the heat slightly and cook without stirring until most of the water has evaporated. Then scatter over the Parmesan cheese and serve seasoned well with salt and pepper.