Make friends over the finest ingredients and flavours
How sharing food brings people together at Tobi's supper club
The kitchen of Tobi Akingbolagun’s house was always full of people when he was growing up, and at his supper clubs he’s capturing that same buzz of community. “Every day after school my friends would come round and my mum would cook without fail,” he says. “She’s incredible. Now I’m trying to recreate that dinner table. I like people sharing, talking and engaging over my food, and the most important thing is that feel of people being together. I still have an open door policy.”
Now Akingbolagun fuses Nigerian ingredients and flavours with his experience of modern British cuisine and classic French style. “I guess I’d call it Nigerian British fusion,” he explains. “To give you an idea, my favourite ingredients are okra, plantain and garlic, though you’d never find garlic in Nigerian cuisine. And I’m doing more patisserie – in Nigeria there’s not really a culture of dessert, because the main courses are so heavy. I’m having fun with it all!”
Part of the joy of running his supper club, Taking Food, is being able to serve dishes that are new to people and for them to tell him directly what they think. “There’s a strange sense of validation you get from people really enjoying your food,” he says. “People have different appreciations so it’s good to hear and take on board other ideas.
“I enjoy sharing what I make. I’m not trying to be different – it just so happens that every time I make something, it is. Food should be dynamic, it should evolve and change. The ingredients might stay the same but there are so many things you can do with them. I love making different dishes around the same core ingredient.”
At his events there’s always a mix of individual plates and big sharing dishes, and he and his team work hard to make sure people get seated where there’ll be free-flowing, easy conversation. “When you share food you have to interact,” he says. “I like that you have to ask someone to pass something to you, and maybe break bread for you with their hands.”
So far, he feels as if he’s paying good homage to his childhood dining table. “Sharing is how I grew up,” he enthuses. “I want to create love in a bowl, that’s essentially it. Food should make you feel good. I want people to eat a dish and smile, not just at the end of it, but with every mouthful.”
What: Taking Food presents A Little Taste of Campo Viejo
When: Saturday 8 December
Where: east London
Price: £49 for four courses with wine pairings
Tickets can be purchased at takingfood.co.uk/events
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