The deconstructed shirt: Re-imagining a classic wardrobe staple

The classic shirt has earned its status as a wardrobe mainstay but for spring/summer 2016 it’s anything but basic writes Sarah Young

Sarah Jones
Monday 01 August 2016 05:11 EDT
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Jacquemus Spring Summer 2016
Jacquemus Spring Summer 2016 (AFP/Getty)

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The backbone of every woman’s wardrobe, the white button-up shirt transcends seasons, times of day and even gender. It’s familiar, resolutely dependable and, despite its simplicity, anything but basic. To call it so would be to underestimate its potential and that’s exactly why it’s enjoying an unaccustomed moment in the spotlight. For spring/summer 2016 designers commandeered the wardrobe staple with a bevy of clever riffs, replacing the straight-laced button-through with far more experimental designs. From wrap-around waists to slashed cut-outs, this season is all about deconstructed tailoring in an attempt to revive the classic shirt we once borrowed from the boys - this season, it’s all ours.

Zac Posen Spring Summer 2016
Zac Posen Spring Summer 2016

Peeling back the rigid rules of traditional two-piece suit, the runway offered some interesting alternatives to the 9-5 shirt – among them, Zac Posen whose essentially feminine aesthetic fixated on real world daywear with a long sleeve crisp white shirt, unbuttoned at the collar and draped asymmetrically over the shoulder. For Jacquemus and Joseph, construction was taken to new heights with fractured tailoring, whorls of knots and shirts worn back-to-front while Delpozo’s proclivity for romance saw oversized ruffles and the resemblance of a crisp-white fairy-tale cape.

Joseph Spring Summer 2016
Joseph Spring Summer 2016

Everyone loves a classic button-down but if you’re looking for a fresh punch of style it’s time to roll up your sleeves – or rather, tie them. Customising what’s already in your wardrobe is a great way to make something feel new and exciting again without having to splash the cash so for a little DIY design try transforming your go-to shirt into a one-shoulder blouse. To do so, leave your arms out of the sleeves completely and button up the shirt not quite to the top; twist to bring one sleeve to the front and the other to the back and bring them both together over your shoulder to tie at the front. Voila! This isn’t for everyone of course and thankfully there are a host of ready-made re-worked shirts on the market for you to get your mitts on. Whatever option you go for there’s no doubt that it’s time to look at this venerable favourite with a fresh pair of eyes.

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