Rick Owens spring/summer 2015: An unusually ethereal display
Rick Owens presented his spring/summer 2015 collection in Paris.
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Your support makes all the difference.Rick Owens is synonymous with leather, so masterful is he at sculpting jackets and clumpy, stompy footwear from supple skins.
But he's also got a lightness of touch, which when he applied it to his designs for spring/summer created something altogether more ethereal.
The first looks were sleeveless with something almost housecoat or pinny-like about them. A resemblance to anything utilitarian was negated when you considered the construction however - fine mesh tulle was layered upon itself, with tubes of the stuff standing proud from the front of the body.
A colour palette of icy blue, khaki, peach and brown came together as Owens explored volume and texture. Nothing felt stiff or overwrought, instead models in tunics layered over shorts or strapless jumpsuits with dropped crotches looked as though they'd never worn anything else.
There were of course leather pieces too, which combined with stiff padded satin was worked into multi-sleeved robe like jackets. In bronze leather the redundant tubular sleeves resembled arteries in a beautifully drawn medical illustration of a heart.
That may just be my interpretation, but without doubt there was plenty of Owens' own heart, and soul, in this collection.
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