Out of the office, into the suit

You don't need to look square in a suit. Some men see their two lapels, three buttons and matching trousers as a rigid uniform for thankless days of nine-to-five toil. Others take a more enlightened view. Men who don't have to wear a suit as part of a daily uniform are often the ones who enjoy wearing one as a form of dressing up. A great suit can be the male equivalent of a ballgown.

Dominic Butler, a 30-year-old graphic designer, says he doesn't wear a suit to work because it wouldn't be comfortable. He wears jeans, trainers and casual shirts. Nevertheless, he is the proud owner of four suits, one from Agnes B, one from Jigsaw, an old one from Cerruti, and - his most recent buy - a two-piece made to his own design by a tailor in Bangkok. He wishes he had had more made. "It's got a short jacket, short lapels, and narrow trousers in wool, and I'm looking forward to wearing it for winter," he says.

Butler wears his suits to weddings, posh dinners and launch parties, and on Valentine's Day. It is a way of showing off, taking on a different persona to his everyday look.

Steve Wood, a 30-year-old engineer, loves wearing a suit, but practicalities dictate that he wears jeans and a T-shirt to work. He has an eye for a second-hand Forties drape suit with narrow trousers and lapels. "Those old suits change your shape," he says. "They make your legs look really narrow, and if I wear creepers with it I look slimmer and taller."

His favourite suits include a green tartan bondage suit by Vivienne Westwood, bought in the early Eighties and still worn and loved. He is in the process of having an old 1950s suit copied by a Soho tailor in mohair.

Steve Wells, a 31-year-old product development scientist who works in the United States, says it is frowned upon in big corporations like his to wear a suit and tie to work. "Business dress means a shirt and tie," he says. "If you wear a suit, it's considered that you are trying to outdo everyone: you're trying to be the vice-president. If you forget that it's casual Friday and come in a suit, you really stand out. People think, `Who does he think he is?' "

Wells's four suits include two by Emporio Armani, one by Next and a shiny tonic suit by Katharine Hamnett. He says he would spend up to pounds 700 on a suit. His most recent Emporio one cost pounds 550.

"A suit makes you look expensive," he says. "I like having a suit fitted on me. You know that it really fits properly. Everything is exactly right."

He wears his suits to go out at night, if he is going to a dinner or party. "I could wear the Emporio suit to an interview or out to something smart without feeling stiff. If it is tailored softly, it looks relaxed and cool. If the suit is stiff and pinstriped, there's a danger you could look like you've come straight from the office.

"The Hamnett is more the kind of thing you'd wear to a glamorous party. I think it's the equivalent of a woman putting on an evening dress - men are more limited. We can only wear a shirt and trousers, but if you wear a suit you look like you're going to something special."

There are strict rules to wearing a suit and many men like to follow certain codes. "Really cheap nasty shoes spoil a suit, while patterned or light-coloured socks can throw it completely," Dominic Butler warns.

"Shoes are really important. I stick to the classics, like a good pair of Oxfords. Never trainers."

The right tie and belt are also important. And wearing the right suit for your body shape is another obvious rule. If you are short, you should avoid anything double-breasted and steer clear of longer line jackets. If you are tall and thin, you can get away with virtually anything. Narrow hips can wear flat-fronted trousers; long legs and you can wear the new wide-legged trousers that menswear designers are pushing for this season and next.

The best rule is to shop around and try on as many different shapes of trousers and jackets as you can. Don't be afraid to be a bit wild with your shirt and tie. And don't let some shop assistant bat her eyelids at you and tell you you look amazing. Check all views in a mirror, especially the way the jacket hangs at the back and how your bottom looks in the trousers.

And just because you happen to be going to a wedding the next day, never buy a suit on impulse. You can guarantee you'll never wear it again and you'll feel like a stuffed shirt on the day. Don't think "office" and "pinstripe". Loosen your tie, take off those glasses, let down your hair and live a little.

Above: Blue pinstripe suit, jacket, pounds 105, trousers, pounds 54.99, by Next, Oxford Street, London W1, and branches nationwide (enquiries 0116- 284 9424); camel shirt, pounds 39.95, brown tie, pounds 45, both by Jigsaw Mens, Floral Street, London WC2, Kings Street, Manchester, East Street, Brighton (enquiries 0171-240 5651)

Right: Chocolate pinstripe suit, pounds 295, by Jigsaw, as before; chocolate brown shirt, pounds 45 by French Connection, Regent Street, London W1, Eden Walk, Kingston (enquires 0171-399 7200); chocolate and cream tie, pounds 55 by Dolce & Gabbana, available from Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge, London SW3; black leather shoes, pounds 44.99, by Next, as before

Left: Grey suit, three-button jacket, pounds 240, trousers, pounds 128, by Agnes B, Floral Street, London WC2 (enquiries 0171-379 1992); navy shirt, pounds 45, by French Connection, as before; navy tie, pounds 55, by Duchamp, available from Harrods, Knightsbridge, London SW3, Jenners, Princes Street, Edinburgh; black shoes, by Next, as before

Right: Navy blue suit, three-button single-breasted jacket, pounds 225, flat- fronted trousers, pounds 125, by PS from Paul Smith, purple shirt, pounds 95, cotton stripe tie, pounds 45, all by Paul Smith, Floral Street, London WC2

Stylist: Sophia Neophitou

Model: Steve Wilson at Models One