Designers and agents on how to master the off-duty model look during fashion month

Clean lines and vintage finds

Thursday 12 September 2024 05:28 EDT

Bella Hadid waves in skinny sunglasses

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Kelly Rissman

US News Reporter

Fashion Month is in full swing and with it the street style of many off-duty models.

Somehow, the likes of Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner manage to carry off a cool insouciance with their minimal looks, but often when we try to replicate them, they fall ill-fittingly flat.

We hear from model agencies and Fashion Week designers the industry secrets to mastering the off-duty look.

Be comfortable in your own skin

The off-duty look boils down to the blend of polish and nonchalance. “Most models will have minimal make-up and their hair looks messy but cool and stylish,” say John Bruce and Paulo Ribeiro, founders of the modelling agency, PRM. “Their edgy yet relaxed fashion means you can spot a model from a mile away.”

Keeping your style simple but authentic is the trick to off-duty dressing (Alamy/PA)

British fashion designer and podcast host, Amanda Wakeley OBE, says the secret to pulling off basic looks is confidence.

“Being totally at ease in your skin means you’ll feel great in whatever you have decided to wear,” says the Fashion Week designer. “If we feel great, we look great, job done.”

Clean lines and vintage finds

Looking cool in your off-duty ensemble lies in the simplicity. “It’s about striking that perfect balance between comfort and style, where every piece feels intuitively chosen yet impeccably put together without being too perfect,” says Wakeley.

“Think relaxed silhouettes, neutral palettes, and a certain undone elegance.”

Pairing simple vintage and new pieces is key (Alamy/PA)

Clean lines doesn’t mean you have to go and buy packet-new white T-shirts. “Most of our models avoid fast fashion and they love vintage,” say Bruce and Ribeiro. “Second-hand shopping in thrift stores or customising your own looks is key to looking individual as opposed to replicating a specific outfit.”

Incorporate your own style – not trends

The reason models manage to look so cool is that they have access to trends before the rest of us. “Models have access to shooting the latest clothing looks even before the public sees them,” say Bruce and Ribeiro, “so they know ahead of what will be cool or not. They almost set new trends before they hit the high streets.”

If you’re unsure on which trends to go for, donning a fleeting fashion that doesn’t suit your style will make you stick out like a sore thumb. Instead, opt for one trend-led piece you like, and keep the rest simple.

Accenting your simple outfit with one trend piece – such as shoes – is a great way to contemporise your look (Alamy/PA)

“Generally, models will wear at least one very on-trend piece that will transform their look into “fashion insider” – the key is in the subtle details,” says Wakeley.

“A pop of colour through an accessory or layering textures like a super-oversized scarf, or tie a chunky knit around your neck – the idea is to keep the foundation simple and effortless, allowing room to play with trends or personal touches.”

Your off-duty essentials

The foundation of an off-duty wardrobe which models such as Gigi and Bella Hadid master time after time is rooted in timeless and versatile pieces.

“Essentials include a perfect pair of jeans for your shape, whether that’s wide leg, straight or skinny, a tank top or perhaps a band T, and a tailored blazer or leather jacket,” says Wakeley.

Gigi Hadid often sports an all-monochrome outfit off duty (Alamy/PA)

Bruce and Ribeiro argue the key is the fit – more than the piece. “Over time, models will work alongside top stylists and designers and this is when they start to see how clothing sits on the body and knows what works well for them.“Finding the perfect pair of straight-leg fitting jeans, accompanied with a vest and a cool pair of loafers or brogues are always a winner.”

Alternatively, vintage baggy jeans worn low slung, a vest and a vintage blazer or distressed leather jacket can be effortlessly cool with little thought required.

Get the off-duty look: