Let's hear it for the boys

Designers veer between conservatism and courage for next season

Adam Welch
Sunday 27 January 2013 17:00 EST
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How long is an epoch, in fashion terms, given that everything changes every six months?

That may not be entirely clear in this fast-paced, innovation-obsessed industry, but it feels like we're currently in the middle of a distinct era – what we might call the age of uncertainty. There's been shake-ups at many big houses in the past year, with Hedi Slimane showing his first collections for the newly-renamed Saint Laurent, Raf Simons being replaced at Jil Sander with the brand's namesake, a new CEO at Fendi, a temporarily empty seat at Balenciaga (where Alexander Wang will report for duty next season) and a mildly confusing chop-and-change of show schedules, which, this season, saw Kenzo at Pitti in Florence and McQueen coming home to London.

So much change, and in a relentless period of recession where designers don't seem entirely sure whether they're better to go for blog posts and bag sales, palatable clobber for the masses or gut-wrenchingly extravagant status-wear for the super-rich. The result of all this, in the men's shows for autumn/winter 2013, was a season that veered between conservatism and outrageousness, self-conscious consolidation and damn-it-all flights of scuzzy fantasy.

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