On the rails: A child-friendly train adventure through Spain, France and Switzerland
What could be better than a long train ride with three kids? Four long train rides covering four countries – yes, even with three kids, says Katherine Latham
Before kids, Tom and I were always planning our next adventure. As a pair, we explored Europe by train, travelled the length of Asia, and circled the globe. But as parents, we tended to stick to the UK; travel is not so easy with children who need routine and sleep, or who simply don’t sit still ‒ certainly not for hours at a time.
Nearly a decade into parent life, we thought it was time to introduce Billy (9), Sammy (6) and fresh-out-of-nappies Sophie (2) to a real adventure. Shaking off post-pandemic restlessness, we decided to introduce our kids to “abroad” by replicating our Europe-by-train adventure, on a realistic but ambitious multi-stop tour. We’d start in all-ages-friendly Barcelona, head to pretty Avignon in France, and end up in the snowy Swiss Alps.
We decided to introduce our kids to ‘abroad’ by replicating our Europe-by-train adventure, on a realistic but ambitious multi-stop tour
The obvious choice seemed to be buying Eurail passes, which allow travel through 33 European countries. But in researching them, we found we were unable to book seats for the long journeys using them; instead, we booked each rail trip one by one, using RailEurope. We brushed up on our French, Spanish and German, potty-trained the baby, and packed light, stuffing clothes for every possible weather into five wheelie backpacks.
Barcelona to Avignon
Our adventure began in Barcelona, in the middle of the July heatwave. Staying in the Gothic Quarter, we spent two days wandering the maze of cool, shady medieval streets, eating tapas in the squares, getting sugary churros on the go, and marvelling at Barcelona’s many Roman remains, including a wall dating from AD300.
Barcelona Cathedral is a peaceful alternative to the touristy Sagrada Familia. This 14th-century cathedral is famous for its gothic architecture, paintings and stained-glass windows. We mainly found it handy for experiencing the city’s majestic buildings without putting the kids through endless queues. Summer homework, tick.
We spent both mornings of our two days here on Barceloneta Beach. Towards the northern end we spied an accessible portion, with a wooden walkway all the way to the sea, a safe swimming area and free showers – excellent for prams and small children. With the entire beach lined with bars and restaurants, we were never far from a bite to eat.
We spent two days in Barcelona, wandering the maze of cool, shady medieval streets, eating tapas in the squares, getting sugary churros on the go, and marvelling at the many Roman remains
But this was a flying, if lovely, visit. Two days later, we were clambering onto our first international train – to Avignon, in Provence, France. Billy, who loves trains, was excited to climb onto a double-decker TGV – but it was chaos. Lugging bags and kids up twisting train stairs should be a gold-medal sport.
This was not helped by getting on board to find our seats were double booked. I squeezed up, with littlest Sophie on my lap, so that a Korean couple could perch next to us. The train left the station with the four of us crammed into two seats.
Eventually, the train conductor found seats for everyone and we settled into the journey. The boys watched films on iPads, while Sophie happily made herself yoghurt and ham sandwiches.
Avignon to Geneva
Every July, the walled city of Avignon turns into a giant theatre. Founded in 1947, Avignon Festival is one of the biggest performing arts events in the world. As we emerged from the station, the streets immediately buzzed with energy. Posters were plastered on every wall and musicians played on every corner. We danced and ate ice creams as we walked through the old walled town.
The temperature soared as we headed towards the 14th-century Palais des Papes – one of the largest and most important medieval Gothic buildings in Europe. We sought shelter in its shady gardens, where the children could play while we admired the view over the city.
We stayed two nights in Avignon and, despite our fondness for this beautiful city, we were looking forward to cooler Geneva.
In Avignon, the streets buzzed with energy. We danced and ate ice creams as we walked through the old walled town
Geneva to Wengen
But first, two more long, hot train journeys awaited: Avignon Centre to Avignon TGV, followed by Avignon TGV to Geneva. We played Dobble, Plus-Plus and IQ Puzzler Pro, but hot, tired children made for hot, tired arguments, so we resorted to screens once again. Peppa Pig seemed to do the trick.
Then, as we crossed into Switzerland, the countryside quickly went from scorched to green and rolling. We stepped out of Geneva station and straight into Hotel Suisse where, from six floors up, we could spy Lake Geneva. The Jet D’eau fired 140 metres into the sky, while Mont Blanc glistened in the distance, our first glimpse of snow.
To Sophie’s utter delight, the carriage we chose had an actual playground, including a toy boat to climb in and a slide
The next morning, we were straight on the rails again, hopping aboard the inter-regional double-decker from Geneva to Bern. To Sophie’s utter delight, the carriage we chose had an actual playground, including a toy boat to climb in and a slide.
From Bern, we skirted Lake Thun and Lake Brienz through Interlaken, where we switched trains. We squeezed onto a bike carriage, where kind people made room for us among luggage, prams and bikes.
The ‘Top of Europe’
Our first glimpse of the Lauterbrunnen Valley was breathtaking. A perfect glacial U-shape, the valley is framed by sheer cliffs with cascading waterfalls. Sweaty and exhausted, we climbed aboard the cog railway that would take us up into the mountains.
That evening, we sat on our balcony overlooking the little town of Wengen, and watched as the 4,158-metre-high Jungfrau made its own weather, catching the clouds as they passed.
Known as the “Top of Europe”, the Jungfrau is famous for its railway. For more than 100 years, trains have been making the journey to Europe’s highest-altitude railway station. The line climbs steeply through the very centre of the mountain. A stop-off point allows passengers to peer from windows cut into the mountainside at the Eismeer (sea of ice), before travelling on to Jungfraujoch.
From Jungfraujoch underground station, you can access the Sphinx Observatory. Here you can practically reach out and touch the Eiger’s north face. Inside the mountain, a network of tunnels make up a museum dedicated to the railway, while outside you can sledge, zip-wire, or do as we did and enjoy a good old-fashioned snowball fight.
We spent seven happy days gliding up and down mountains, stopping at the plentiful playgrounds and drinking hot chocolate in picture-perfect Swiss chalets.
Wengen to Zurich, then home
Our last journey, from Wengen back to Bern, then on to Zurich, went smoothly. The boys were now fluent in train timetables, and we had finally figured out the best way to get all the kids and luggage on and off trains. We felt like pros.
Our last stop was Zurich, from where we would fly home. After breakfast in the hotel, we hopped aboard a tram that took us to Strandbad Tiefenbrunnen, one of Lake Zurich’s many beautiful swimming spots. You can swim in the lake for free if you can find a spot to get in, but we opted to pay for a lido with the benefit of changing rooms, showers, toilets and a cafe.
The water was warm, and the kids could splash about freely in the shallow end. Afterwards, we enjoyed a picnic on the spacious lawns under the shade of the many umbrellas. What a way to end an incredible adventure.
The boys were now fluent in train timetables, and we had finally figured out the best way to get all the kids and luggage on and off trains. We felt like pros
We found our ambitious trip to be an amazing bonding experience for the whole family. The children learned words in three different languages, experienced new cultures, and coped amazingly with long days, strange foods and unfamiliar beds. Even my little homebody, Sammy, didn’t want the adventure to end.
The worst bit was undeniably sitting at the airport, waiting for our flight home. Now, we’re planning our next adventure – this time, one that doesn’t involve a single plane. Trains are the only way to travel, small children and all.
Top tips for a child-friendly European train trip
- Instead of opting for quick train changeovers, which can be stressful, aim to catch the one that leaves an hour or two after you arrive, and take a break between journeys to go for a wander or have a slow meal.
- Getting on and off trains with kids is hard! Book ground-floor seats on double-deckers, and get the children to carry as much as they can themselves. One adult can then herd the children on while the other lifts the big bags.
- Factor in some home comforts. Let kids watch their favourite shows on a tablet, give them fish fingers for tea, bring familiar blankets and teddies.
- Take lots of entertainment: iPads loaded with games and shows; puzzles; card games; pens and paper – and endless snacks!
- Have an emergency “splurge meal” fund for lunch in a cool, quiet place. At the very moment we got sick of carriage changes and station sandwiches, we deployed our 75CHF (£65) spend at Italian chain Vapiano in Bern.
- If you know you’ll arrive late, research where to get food before you arrive – somewhere close by, quick, and highly rated on Tripadvisor or similar.
- Local tourism cards can help families save money. The Barcelona T-Casual travel pass allows you to hop on and off the buses freely to travel around the city, while the Tourist Swiss Half Fare Card gets you 50 per cent off tickets and comes with a Swiss Family Card, which lets under 16s go free.
Getting there
Barcelona to Avignon and Avignon to Geneva can be booked via RailEurope. Swiss Half Fare Card and Swiss Family Pass were bought online at sbb.ch. Top of Europe passes can be booked at jungfrau.ch.
Staying there
Barcelona: Two-bedroom apartment in Gothic Quarter booked via Airbnb, £230/night.
Avignon: Two-bedroom apartment in central Avignon booked via Airbnb, £130/night.
Geneva: Hotel Suisse, £174 room only for a family suite booked via Booking.com.
Wengen: Three-bedroom apartment booked via Airbnb, £230/night.
Zurich: Hotel Marta, £271 for a family suite, bed and breakfast, booked via Booking.com.
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