How Scotland is leading the way for cruising

The cruise industry globally may seem dead in the water, crippled by a Covid-19 storm no one forecasted. But there are tantalising green shoots right here in UK waters – more specifically in Scottish waters, where a flotilla of small family-owned ships are leading the charge. 

They have found a way to safely steer through some of the most spectacular cruising landscapes on the planet, offering a taste of how cruising is possible in the time of coronavirus.

Social distancing measures, pared-down numbers of passengers, mandatory masks and the strictest of cleaning regimes – you name it, these bijoux vessels are doing it in order to stay Covid-compliant and reassure guests.

Scotland’s first minister, Nicola Sturgeon, has stressed that nothing should feel normal at the moment. Aboard the Majestic Line, they seem to have stuck reassuringly rigidly to her advice. It helps that one of the owners, Ken Grant, is a respected epidemiologist. Before setting sail, he tells me how cruising in small ships is possible despite Foreign and Commonwealth advice against cruising (barring river cruises).

“Following consultation with both the Scottish government and Visit Scotland we have completed our own thorough risk assessment and worked out how we can cruise safely. In effect our ships are floating small hotels with all the necessary protocols in place,” he says.

Arriving on the pontoon in Oban, I’m carrying the emotional baggage of months trapped in lockdown angst along with my luggage. But I’m quickly reassured as the mask-clad crew take my temperature. This is a daily procedure for passengers and crew – the latter are regularly tested for coronavirus too. I’m wearing my own mask, as are the other half dozen passengers, and Grant himself has popped aboard to give us a Covid-19 briefing.  

He talks against a backdrop of sanitizer gel – a flotilla of bottles, sprays and decanters are placed throughout the trim 78ft long ship.

I have cruised on the Majestic Line’s other three vessels, but this is my first time aboard the Glen Shiel. As the largest in the fleet, she’s an ideal size for Covid-19 compliant cruising with public areas fore and aft, plus plenty of airy outside space. Our bosun Jill – it’s very much first-name terms on Scotland’s small ships, with skipper Peter, engineer Chris and chef Molly – explains our plush cabins won’t be serviced, but towels and toiletries will be replaced halfway through our six-night voyage.

My concern that measures like these might feel too prohibitive or strict are swiftly quashed, as they prove not to affect our enjoyment in the slightest. All the passengers visibly accept that things have to be a little different and we bond quickly, as invariably happens aboard Scotland’s small ships. 

The country’s more petite vessels take a maximum of 12 guests and many are operating with a reduced capacity at the moment, meaning they feel even more intimate. By the end of dinner on the first night we are warm acquaintances; over the cruise we become firm friends.

I’ve been lucky enough to set sail on over 20 Scottish cruises in my time, and this Majestic Line adventure is like a greatest hits reel of what Scotland has to offer. 

As well as boat-fresh seafood and other culinary wonders, served against the backdrop of a nightly Hebridean sunset, I see planets, shooting stars and a meteor in the cinematic, clear night skies. We spot porpoises, dolphins, minke whales and even orcas in the Atlantic, plus otters rambling around the coast and sea eagles soaring overhead. We land on a string of islands where we venture ashore by tender in our masks to find locals who actually welcome visitors after their lonely lockdowns.

Not all of Scotland’s small ships have chosen to start sailing again in this Covid-ravaged season. The likes of Argyll Cruising and the Queen’s favourite, Hebridean Princess (her Majesty has chartered her twice), have chosen to cut their losses and regroup for 2021. With staycations set to surge right through next year, though, they are all reporting solid bookings.

Several other operators are joining Majestic Line in cruising this year. 

I’ve recently been out with Red Moon Cruises, whose set-up is ideal for passengers not keen to cruise with any other households, as they are currently only accepting single-family groups. Owners skipper Scott Atkinson and his mate/chef wife Mary Waller take a maximum of four passengers – my wife and daughters loved our three days in charge of “our ship”, as the girls called it.

Skarv Lines, meanwhile, are new to Scottish cruising this year and have endured a Covid-19 baptism of fire; they finally managed to get out on the water this month. 

Hebridean owner John MacInnes says: “We’ve spent time during lockdown working out social distancing measures and we’re happy we’ve got it covered. 

“We are limiting the number of guests with the required two-metre distancing enabled. Crew are wearing PPE throughout the cruise and masks are worn by all when outside cabins. We have strict cleaning regimens in place for public areas and shared shower rooms/toilets as well as all high-touch surfaces using Covid-effective biocidal cleaning sprays.”  

I’m cruising with them from Inverness this autumn. They’ve been busy creating innovative itineraries, rather than just sailing the west coast like other operators. My trip takes in Arbroath, where their vessel, the striking Nova Spero, was built; the East Neuk (where she was designed); and a breathtaking passage right under the trio of Forth Bridges as we sail from the Moray Forth to the Firth of Forth via the North Sea. They are cruising right until the end of the year with good availability currently showing.

Also back in the water is European Waterways’ Spirit of Scotland, with luxurious sojourns along the Thomas Telford-forged Caledonian Canal between Inverness and Fort William. It’s ideal for timid sailors, as the Spirit of Scotland experience is akin to a river cruise with a series of canals, basins and locks en route, plus the inland lochs Oich, Lochy and Ness – yes, the Loch Ness of ‘Nessie’ fame.

Cabins are large for a canal cruiser, public areas are plentiful and spacious, plus they boast a hot tub on deck aft. Aboard last year for six nights, I enjoyed toasting the brooding Highland massifs that rise up on both sides of the canal – with a wee dram in hand of course. Again, the company is at pains to stress that its operations are all Covid compliant.

After months shut off from the pandemic-ravaged world, I was nervous about cruising Scottish waters again. But after sailing twice in the last couple of months, I can report that Scotland’s flotilla of small ships are shipshape and as safe as they can be. Indeed, I felt calmer aboard than I do in my local supermarket. These floating hotels offer a life-affirming anchorage amid the coronavirus storm.

The Majestic Line is running cruises until the end of October on its Glen Shiel and Glen Etive vessels, plus private charters aboard the Glen Massan and the Glen Tarsan. 

Red Moon Cruises ships are currently available for single-family private charters.

Skarv Lines is cruising right until Christmas with an array of itineraries. 

European Waterways is running Caledonian Canal cruises until the end of October. 

It is essential to check with the current Scottish government guidelines before any travel to and around Scotland as regulations vary from other parts of the UK.