The wheel deal: How Bordeaux became one of the world’s most skateboarding-friendly cities

The early September sun; the wide expanse of the Garonne river; the splashes of water in the Miroir d’Eau; the breeze in your hair as bikes, skateboards and scooters swoop past you: it all lends Bordeaux a feeling of flow.

But this urban harmony is a recent thing. Although Bordelais pro-skater Leo Valls has been skating in the historic French city for 20 years, it’s only in the past six that the council has gone from ticketing skaters and skate-stopping urban structures to what Leo calls “skateurbanism” – integrating skateboarding in public spaces rather than prohibiting it.

“They thought skateboarding could be banned but it cannot. It’s too free to be banned,” says Leo. “Yes, skateboarding is loud and it can feel dangerous, but it’s very positive for the city because it’s a social activity for kids and it’s safe when practised in public places. Also, skateboarding is a cultural phenomenon and it brings tourism to the city. In Bordeaux, we have people who come from Brazil, Japan, America and the UK to skate because they see the skate movies we make here.”

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Leo, who has been instrumental in the port city’s metamorphosis, worked with the council to introduce a scheme that allowed skating in public places on certain days at specific times. Following its success, and the election of the progressive Green Party, Leo and crew are now – five years on – ditching the timezones, ripping down the street signs in public squares and streets, and introducing a softer, more integrated approach: a colour-coded leaflet showing skaters where and when they need to be mindful of residents.

As part of the scheme, the council has also reinvented parts of the city into vibrant, skate-friendly areas, is investing in the rebuild of a skatepark, and has installed skatable sculptures, as well as hosting exhibitions to embed skating as a cultural and artistic pursuit, not just a sport. A skateboarding festival is on the cards for 2023.

Skateboarding was born on the streets and even if you build skateparks, which are great for learners and skaters who want to do specific tricks, people will still return to the streets. This is because they love the city and the infinite opportunities it offers for creativity and self-expression, Leo explains, as he takes my skater son and I on a tour of his favourite street skate spots, which include Place Pey Berland, a huge square in front of the Hotel de Ville, and Terrasse Koenig, remodelled as a skate-friendly public space in 2020, with smooth ground and different-sized planters and steps.

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Elsewhere, Bordeaux’s riverfront was redeveloped in 2000 as a social space. The planting is plentiful, there’s a market under the trees twice a week in Chartrons, and the wide, smooth pavements and huge water mirror, Miroir d’Eau, make it the perfect place to play.

We also swing by Place André Meunier: it’s a stretch of flat ground in a public park with two skateable granite benches added by the city in the middle, making it a great spot for picnicking and skating.

And then there are the official skate parks, much more numerous than you might expect. Built in a former military barracks, Darwin is a sustainable community including cafes and restaurants, a school, a brewery, co-working space, events platform, shops – and yes, a huge indoor skate park. It’s cheap to skate and hire boards and it’s well-used by everyone from young kids to teenagers to Olympic hopefuls.

Zoom Skateboard and Co is the birthplace of skateboarding in Bordeaux. My son had an hour-long skate lesson here with BoardO school and progressed quickly from basic turns to ramps, grinds, rails and steps; tuition was gentle and so full of positivity I even found myself wanting a go.

The Chartrons, an outdoor skatepark, is having a makeover and is due to open in late 2022 – but when it does, it will be the largest of its kind in France and an official 2024 Olympics preparation centre.

And let’s not forget skate shops, which are legendary in Bordeaux. Top of the tree is probably Riot, just around the corner from Zoom, followed by Bordelais institution Transfert. We also loved newcomer Sirop d’érable, which is tiny but packed with a more affordable range for teenagers.

Skateboarding in Bordeaux has become increasingly popular in recent years, and even more so during France’s lockdowns, says Leo. “It’s becoming a family thing. We’re seeing it come full circle and people who skated when they were young are now picking it up again with their own kids. It’s becoming much more popular with girls and women, too.”

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Longboard dancer Tifenn is a case in point. We watch her float along the quay in baggy trousers, throwing balletic shapes and weaving gracefully in and out of the crowds. “Longboard dancing is getting more popular, although it’s still less known than classic skateboarding,” she explains. “In Bordeaux, we have a little longboard community and we organise regular contests.” But for Tifenn, as for most skaters, it’s not about competition. “I love the feeling of freedom, the adrenaline, the artistic expression and the power to dance on the board. I like creating my own dance steps, putting my music in my ears and letting my emotions run free,” she says.

Looking for alternative top European skate cities? Try Copenhagen, Malmo and Barcelona.

In Sweden, when they build cities, they think about the health of their people and they see skateboarding as a way to make the city playable and fun for youngsters. No surprise that they are very advanced with their skate integration; you’ll find multiuse squares that mix dog walking, lunch-eating, bike riding and skating. And in Barcelona, there’s a great mix of balmy temperatures – even in winter – beautiful architecture, smooth marble floors, and a culture of shared public spaces.

Take the Eurostar to Paris, and a TGV train from Paris to Bordeaux.

Fly to Bordeaux Mérignac with Easyjet. Transfer by bus to the city centre in 35 minutes.

Maison du Lierre is a small, independent hotel in a central location with a tropical enclosed garden. Doubles from €120. hotel-maisondulierre-bordeaux.com

Bordeaux has a very good tram system and the CityPass includes bus, tram and water bus travel as well as entry to the main sights.